Just won a 102, for this years race

chris · Post by **chris** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 6:57 am

the photo has helped me identify my SN1
It is exactly the same with the tiller arm setup and water outlet,
A lot of seagulls in australia look like they may have been assembled modified and sold a lot later than what the serial number says,
I also have a century with serial number 308F9, it is a later model as it has the black plastic on the fly wheel, the owners manual that came with said it is a SJP.
there is definitely a lot of mystery around them.

rosbullterier · Post by **rosbullterier** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 2:57 pm

Incidentally, I understand the longshaft exhaust allows 0.1 more hp than the shortshaft. Better to adjust up on the drive tube with additional collar than shorten it.

Being a whizzo brazer, you'll be able to braze that 6" exhaust tube back on . . .

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 5:44 pm

I don't like the look of long shaft engines, they look out of proportion.

Think of the reduced weight and wind resistance.

Cellulose would appear to be petrol proof (tank on AC still fine).
Is Hammerite smooth petrol proof?

H-A

rosbullterier · Post by **rosbullterier** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 8:21 pm

I know what you mean, the first year I used a long shaft Silver Century on the skiff and it was so fast I was embarassingly a complete lap in front. I know better now . . .

Is the cellulose really cellulose or acrylic? Cellulose is not so easy to get now. I use black paint then lacquer over so theoretically the paint should be sealed. But its where the lacquer ends at the petrol inlets that the trouble starts. I'm taking the forum's advice - I think Charles P - and using Halfords petrol resistant paint.

As soon as they restock it here . . .

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Mon Jan 26, 2009 10:17 pm

Real cellulose the stuff you can't buy unless it is for a classic car restoration.

Have just finished the inlet polishing, have enlarged it a bit and improved the shape. This can only help to get more air/fuel into the cylinder.

Carb internals next!

H-A

Hugz · Post by **Hugz** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:22 pm

Here are some original pics of '64 102.

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... %26ps%3D42

Cheers Hugo.

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 10:34 pm

Thanks Hugo this is identical to mine, Thought mine would have had the bird transfer but now I know.

Have saved the pictures for the restoration.

Bet mine has a shinier inlet port

H-A

Hugz · Post by **Hugz** » Wed Jan 28, 2009 11:29 pm

The bird transfer seems to be the defining moment in being collectable or not.

You are the whiz on tanks, how hard would it be to install a copper coil in a seagull tank. I'm thinking about a cooling condenser. Yep, a 102 alcohol still............

Its becoming an obsession

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:11 am

Almost done (TC minus the L on right).

Another good winter storage solution.

H-A

woodbutchergraham · Post by **woodbutchergraham** » Sun Feb 08, 2009 12:56 am

H,A are you running them as a pair or entering two?
still whatever, Ive got to admit a classy looking motor. Posibly looking beter than when thay left the factory.

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Sun Feb 15, 2009 5:21 pm

River trial today, only a week left before Thames do.

Runs very well, much faster than my AC.

Raised engine 4 inches after this picture and that improved speed.

Had to slow down because wash was breaking onto tow path (first time this has happened)

Was very noisy, but most of that was induction noise.

Now just need to do another tank.

H-A

Post by **charlesp** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 9:50 am

Looking good.

What do you use to cloean the aluminium castings?

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 5:52 pm

Cleaning aluminium castings.

I use strong detergent and a fine wire brush.

If the casting is corroded then I sand blast first with fine sand, followed by burnishing with a fine wire brush.

H-A

Horsley-Anarak · Post by **Horsley-Anarak** » Mon Feb 16, 2009 8:02 pm

Have just been down to the shed to do some for you to see.

This is the sandblasted finish.

This is what it looks like when you have burnished it with a fine wire brush

I think this is about as close as you will get to factory fresh look.

I personally do not like things brightly polished.

H-A

Collector Inspector · Tue Feb 17, 2009 10:18 am

Different Strokes for Different Blokes I guess.

For me, and my Old Dears, it is ALL by hand. Never excited abrasives or power tools in any form but with carefull attention as to the correct application of acid or oxidising agents as I progress.

Never leave an EXTRA mark on Anything and Never Remove what is there after all of the years!

I like putting time wear and tear into a STOP point. (Nothing added by Me)

Selection of paint finishes/textures for individual bits before assembly if that warrants for the final "Look"

Mind you, Downunder, we tend to be a laid back Mob and there is never any rush. (Rush reserved for the finally assembled smoky Old Tart clattering her way along nicely on an old tub.)

Example is the "Chook", you have all seen this before, yawn, but, NO POWER anything was used. All finished by hands without protective gloves even..........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RGbMWA69 ... annel_page

My Old Brit got the same treatment as well........

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt8QcjZq ... annel_page

All Good But!

C.I.