OMG part II. Off with his head.
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OMG part II. Off with his head.
Well, I took the advice, and took the head off. I think it was a good idea.
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Hello again Henk Yep, that water jacket does look rather packed up with crud..
Here is what I did with my Century block: I used a long thin screwdriver to loosen up all the rusty muck, scraping and poking around inside.. and then some tapping with a rubber mallet to loosen it all some more (may not work so well if it's wet). Tipped that out, did it a few more times. I then blocked the inlet and outlet to the jacket, and filled it up with white vinegar (mild acid, so breaks rust/crud apart), left over night, then repeated previous steps. The block was then pretty well clear Hope that helps.
Here is what I did with my Century block: I used a long thin screwdriver to loosen up all the rusty muck, scraping and poking around inside.. and then some tapping with a rubber mallet to loosen it all some more (may not work so well if it's wet). Tipped that out, did it a few more times. I then blocked the inlet and outlet to the jacket, and filled it up with white vinegar (mild acid, so breaks rust/crud apart), left over night, then repeated previous steps. The block was then pretty well clear Hope that helps.
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Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Now would be a good time to assess how much further you want to go with this rebuild.
What you've done so far is a good way to go for peace of mind.The engine blocks will get a bit bunged up, this seems quite normal for a lot of seagulls these days. Thumbs up from me for having a go at this job.
Don't panic, we've seen this a hundred times or more.
The square drive shaft that is now exposed will probably benefit from some rust treatment. Also a good opportunity to see how much play there is in the drive pinion.
Take it apart if you think you can (better if you can so you can do a proper job) otherwise leave in place and treat the rust as you see it.
If you decide to replace the pump housing gasket, then the driveshaft will have to be removed first.This will almost certainly be corroded in place and will probably be a sod to get shifted. It's a tricky job, but if you think you're able then go for it.
If you're thinking of going deeper into this outboard, could i suggest a good blowtorch for those stubborn jobs. Don't want to go breaking any rusty bolts do we?
All good so far
Jon
What you've done so far is a good way to go for peace of mind.The engine blocks will get a bit bunged up, this seems quite normal for a lot of seagulls these days. Thumbs up from me for having a go at this job.
Don't panic, we've seen this a hundred times or more.
The square drive shaft that is now exposed will probably benefit from some rust treatment. Also a good opportunity to see how much play there is in the drive pinion.
Take it apart if you think you can (better if you can so you can do a proper job) otherwise leave in place and treat the rust as you see it.
If you decide to replace the pump housing gasket, then the driveshaft will have to be removed first.This will almost certainly be corroded in place and will probably be a sod to get shifted. It's a tricky job, but if you think you're able then go for it.
If you're thinking of going deeper into this outboard, could i suggest a good blowtorch for those stubborn jobs. Don't want to go breaking any rusty bolts do we?
All good so far
Jon
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Cheers Whigum. I did the same as you, screwdriver and a long Allan key, and tapping with the rubber handle of a hammer. I'll try the vinigar tomorrow.
The amount of crud in the tub is about half of what has come out so far...
The amount of crud in the tub is about half of what has come out so far...
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Welcome That looks like quite a lot you got out there, I'd say it was definitely a good idea to clean it! Just don't store that mess in an old coffee jar, might give somebody a surprise
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Thanks Jon. The drive shaft has rust (scale) on the bottom half, but a good (careful ) hammering indicates no weakness.headdownarseup wrote:Now would be a good time to assess how much further you want to go with this rebuild.
What you've done so far is a good way to go for peace of mind.The engine blocks will get a bit bunged up, this seems quite normal for a lot of seagulls these days. Thumbs up from me for having a go at this job.
Don't panic, we've seen this a hundred times or more.
The square drive shaft that is now exposed will probably benefit from some rust treatment. Also a good opportunity to see how much play there is in the drive pinion.
Take it apart if you think you can (better if you can so you can do a proper job) otherwise leave in place and treat the rust as you see it.
If you decide to replace the pump housing gasket, then the driveshaft will have to be removed first.This will almost certainly be corroded in place and will probably be a sod to get shifted. It's a tricky job, but if you think you're able then go for it.
If you're thinking of going deeper into this outboard, could i suggest a good blowtorch for those stubborn jobs. Don't want to go breaking any rusty bolts do we?
All good so far
Jon
I want to replace the oil seals, but struggle with the cover over the lower seal, and how to remove the pinion from the drive shaft. That then seems to cover pretty much most of it, without taking the piston of the conrod and the crank out. I'll set about sourcing the various gaskets etc tomorrow.
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
I'm making the list of parts to be ordered, and when I took the head off, there were three (3) head gaskets in place. Is that right?
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Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Think you'll find it's only one they're layered.
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Roll me up and smoke me when I die
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Regret is just a memory written on my brow
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
I see. Cheers.tambikeboy wrote:Think you'll find it's only one they're layered.
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Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
This might help if you're shopping for bits.
Base gasket
Cylinder head gasket (as per Tam's reply they're layers of copper and crimped around the edges.)
Pump housing gasket (depending on if you decide to remove the drive shaft from the box)
Depending on how well you get on with removing the drive shaft from the gearbox, a new impeller might be a good shout too.
Oil seals for the gearbox (don't ask me what the part numbers are)
A new gearbox end cap gasket
New screws to hold the end cap on. (stainless ones are available i think)
A new drain/filler plug for the end cap
A new spark plug
A new throttle cable.
Some fresh oil for the gearbox when you're done.
This would be a good time to measure the piston ring gap as well. If you suspect your rings might be a bit worn, now is the time to order a new set.
Try John first for the above.
That should keep you busy for a bit
Jon
Base gasket
Cylinder head gasket (as per Tam's reply they're layers of copper and crimped around the edges.)
Pump housing gasket (depending on if you decide to remove the drive shaft from the box)
Depending on how well you get on with removing the drive shaft from the gearbox, a new impeller might be a good shout too.
Oil seals for the gearbox (don't ask me what the part numbers are)
A new gearbox end cap gasket
New screws to hold the end cap on. (stainless ones are available i think)
A new drain/filler plug for the end cap
A new spark plug
A new throttle cable.
Some fresh oil for the gearbox when you're done.
This would be a good time to measure the piston ring gap as well. If you suspect your rings might be a bit worn, now is the time to order a new set.
Try John first for the above.
That should keep you busy for a bit
Jon
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Thanks. I'll be getting in touch with John as soon as I know how far I get with pulling it all apart. But I'm a bit waylaid atm, because we found a boat for which the Seagull is a perfect back up...headdownarseup wrote:This might help if you're shopping for bits.
Base gasket
Cylinder head gasket (as per Tam's reply they're layers of copper and crimped around the edges.)
Pump housing gasket (depending on if you decide to remove the drive shaft from the box)
Depending on how well you get on with removing the drive shaft from the gearbox, a new impeller might be a good shout too.
Oil seals for the gearbox (don't ask me what the part numbers are)
A new gearbox end cap gasket
New screws to hold the end cap on. (stainless ones are available i think)
A new drain/filler plug for the end cap
A new spark plug
A new throttle cable.
Some fresh oil for the gearbox when you're done.
This would be a good time to measure the piston ring gap as well. If you suspect your rings might be a bit worn, now is the time to order a new set.
Try John first for the above.
That should keep you busy for a bit
Jon
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
I ordered the parts from John, arrived this morning. The Seagull is now running fine again, and pumping water like a good un. Thanks for all your help.
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
Need some help...can anyone let me know how to remove the short pinion drive from a century lower gear?
Thanks
Thanks
Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.
I had to weld a plate on to the top of mine and drill 2 holes and use two nuts and bolts to wind it apart. That was on a 102 box. It wasn't my finest flick. Hope music doesnt send you to sleep.
https://youtu.be/HQh7GZVrGjk
https://youtu.be/HQh7GZVrGjk