Kingfisher outer and inner exhaust removal

[rvdb]

I am new on this forum although used it as a source of information over the years. I have a Kingfisher which I bought new in 1990 and used it ever since. I recently overhauled the reduction gearbox completely which works fine now. I had cooling problems so I cleaned the cool water passages at the cylinder head side. Those are more or less fine now but at full throttle on the boat I am still experiencing overheating. So I reckon I've to clean the passages at the inner exhaust side as well. The thread in the inner exhaust flange for the water delivery pipe is gone as well so inner and outer exhaust have to come off. I learned from the forum that dismantling those parts is not an easy job. What I didn't find were tips and tricks to actually deal with it. So I would be thankful to hear and learn from others who succeeded in getting that job done.

Ruud

[Horsley-Anarak]

Hi Ruud

Removing the exhaust I have found, can be almost impossible without damage.

I have had to cut a few off in the past.

The only real way is to fully strip the cylinder, remove studs, then mount the cylinder in a large vice with soft jaws protecting the flat faces.

Apply some heat and wiggle the exhaust with the cylinder held firmly, the aluminium oxide will break up and the exhaust tube diameter will open up slightly. Eventually it will come apart

Then you will have access to the inner exhaust, if you have lost the water feed thread you will need a new inner exhaust, the original was a poor casting that almost dissolves in salt water, John has some replacements.

Good luck, post some pictures.

H-A

[Charles uk]

This is what I try first,
remove fuel tank from it's support bracket & the fuel pipe connection fitting from the carb or fuel pump,
undo the 2 nuts holding the power head to the drive shaft tube & remove the power head,
put a bit of old carpet on the floor & rest the inverted power head on it,
as yours is a 1990 model it should have a cast fuel tank support bracket, place both of your feet on this bracket & get a friend to hold on to the crankcase,
Undo the exhaust tube retaining screw & give it a good squirt of penetrating oil inside & out, & wiggle it about as much as you can, often they come loose this way unless they are very badly corroded when as H-A rightly says you will have to cut it off & pay for a new one.

[rvdb]

Thanks a lot for your advice. This gives me enough confidence about the way to approach the problem. I will let you know about the results. Now I just want to check my reasoning about the overheating problem. It all started when I installed the outboard after it had been layed up for say nearly 2 years. (I had to conduct major repairs to my boat). On the first run with the boat the engine seized although I had cooling water. I learned it had a blown cylinderhead gasket. Attacking this problem I noticed the waterways were corroded. That's when I started to read all the posts on this forum. Having cleaned the waterways around the cylinder head. It did run well in the tank. Water flow was alright. On the boat was an other matter. Full throttle caused overheating. Cool water temperature did rise quickly. Another problem appeared: a leaky crankcase cylinder base joint. So the fuel/air mixture must have been wrong as well. Having fixed that problem the overheating problem was more or less cured to say half throttle but I still couldn't run for a longer time at full throttle. That is why I think the problem is caused by the waterways at the cylinder base. Furthermore like I said the fitting of the water delivery pipe is also gone. meaning exhaust fumes are entering the cool-water passages. The manual refers to this as a problem as well without any further explanation. Am I right in supposing that that my approach should finally solve my problems?
Do not have much pics but I attached one of the dismantling of the engine last year.

Ruud

[Charles uk]

Where are you located?

The brass water delivery tubes are known to sometimes develop vibration stress splits check that when you have removed the outer exhaust tube, & as H-A said the hot aluminium inner exhaust just loves dissolving in salt water.

Yours looks pretty clean so the exhaust tube should remove OK.

[rvdb]

Thanks a lot. I am just gonna start. With this job done I have overhauled pretty much everything. So it should be alright for quite a few sailing seasons.
Let you know. I am located in the Netherlands by the way.

Ruud

[Charles uk]

Sorry don't know of any other QB's in the Netherlands, are you planning on using yours in fresh or salt water?

[rvdb]

I am using it on fresh & saltwater. My cruising ground is the "waddenzee" . The coastal zone behind the Frisian isles. I keep my boat on a former estuary which has been closed off from the sea. I have to negotiate a lock. So I keep it on fresh water and it will be flushed with fresh water everytime I return. Not bad at all!
Ruud

[Oyster 49]

Nice cruising ground Ruud! I have sailed around Zeeeland a bit which is fabulous, and I have also been into Den Helder, but never into the I lands water behind Amsterdam. It's on the list!

[rvdb]

I managed to get the inner and outer exhaust off today. Just want to let you know how it worked. I started on the suggestion of Charles. I got the power head less flywheel and flywheel housing and tank on a jig. The idea was to wiggle the exhaust off. The exhaust was to stubborn for this gentile treatment. Off with the cylinder (H-A). Head removed. Produced two wooden parts to protect the upper and lower end of the cylinder an tried a second jig. The clamps were to flexible so that did not work. Up to a large vice. I inserted a wooden log in the outer exhaust to get more leverage and a good surface to hammer against with a wooden mallet. No movement. A week of wd 40 followed. I saw that by using an extension (1/4 inch) on a socket wrench I just managed to unscrew the nuts which hold the inner exhaust to the cylinder. Then back to the vice, liberal heat and a lot of hammering finally persuaded The inner an outer exhaust to move a little. Finally holding exhaust to a wooden beam and hammering against the underside of the cylinder (plastic hammer) and quite some heat again did the trick. The pictures below tells the story. Many thanks for the suggestions.

[Horsley-Anarak]

Glad you got it apart, I did say they were hard to get off

H-A

[Adrian Dale]

Looks like you were thinking "outside the box".... or was all that wood the box.

following with interest hoping to catch a Kingfisher one day

AJ