Restoration questions

[Sylvester]

Hey guys great website , I have owned a seagull for many years and just recently I came across 5 of them in the rubbish and I have started pulling them to bits so I can restore them , one of them started first pull after I gave it a good clean and reset the points , the others were seized but ive managed to free them up and their now in bits ,
The first one im working on is a 102 model TC 72117 which ive stripped down and repainted the block ,

What I need to know is at what stage should the rings be replaced and the bore deglazed , is there a min/max tolerance for the bore and /or rings

Also at what stage do you replace the brass sleeves for the crank shaft and piston rod

The 102 I am doing now started first pull and seemed to run great but ive noticed the brass sleeves looked a bit scratched .
I know i should probably buy a manual but that may be a little while off yet as funds a low at the moment so thought I would ask on here .

I live next to the waikato so next year im hoping to race in the seagull race well maybe put put put anyway

Cheers

[The Tinker]

Welcome Sylvester, Graham at Simply Seagulls is a great source of parts here in NZ, his prices are extremely reasonable. The 102 is a good motor to start with. What are the other engines? What part of the Waikato do you live at?

[Sylvester]

Yes im aware of simply seagulls I have bought several springs and other stuff of them ,I think ill buy a manual soon seen as I have 6 seagulls now , I am close to the elbow .
The other engines are 3 LLS models and a funny one with a gold top and different ignition , ill try and post a few pics , there all in bits at moment though , I think ill get 5 good ones out of them , but I might be lacking some brackets .

[Sylvester]

Also one more question or two
how do you remove the magnets (the one's the ignition module is sandwedged between ) I see one screw on either side and is the other one on each side a stud (how on earth do you get that out with vise grips maybe ? )
So far with tips from this forum ive removed everything except the ingnition from the top cover (maybe I should leave it)

another question - on the silver century I had that was seized my old man smashed the carb inlet tube off trying to separate the block from the crankcase
Whats a good way to fix this brazing maybe ?

Any recommendations for cleaning the aluminium , dishwashing liquid and scotch brite ? , petrol ?

[Sylvester]

Here's a few picture's of my seagull's

Here's the head off the worst one.

This is my original seagull (the workhorse)

Two 102 blocks ready

this had the seized piston

[Sylvester]

One of the seagulls had this big prop and housing does anybody know anything about these?

This silver seagull got it's intake pipe smashed off (any ideas for fixing this?)

[Stelios_Rjk]

Those to propellers look similar or maybe the same as mine.


Mine are from two silver century. The big one is from a clutched gearbox 4:1 reduction and the small one from a direct gearbox. That else would you like to know.

The block I believe it can be fixed by welding from someone experienced.

[Sylvester]

Which one is the fastest

[bychance]

What hull are you pushing?

[Stelios_Rjk]

I think the small one as the gearbox of the big one has high reduction ratio (4:1). If reduction ratio is 3:1 or 2.5:1 it is supposed to go faster. But all seagull outboard were designed to push heavy boats, not go fast light crafts.

[Sylvester]

I just use my seagulls on a 10ft - 12ft dingy , so I guess the smaller one would be suitable , anyone have any spec's for these gearboxes showing reccomended hulls sizes
also another Q - I have lots of high temp engine paint will this be suitable for the tank and prop housing , I have lots of black and silver left over .

[1650bullet]

I just use my seagulls on a 10ft - 12ft dingy , so I guess the smaller one would be suitable , anyone have any spec's for these gearboxes showing reccomended hulls sizes
also another Q - I have lots of high temp engine paint will this be suitable for the tank and prop housing , I have lots of black and silver left over .

A century model 100 (The one on the left) is ideal for a 10-12ft dingy. They have plenty of grunt to push you around, and if need be tow other vessels of the same size back home if they are in a bit of trouble. Remember. at full throttle the engine should only see 3500-3700rpm. Seagulls are like an electric troll motor. They produce Thrust, Not Propulsion. Dont think a british seagull will get your boat up on the plan at full throttle, it wont happen. There like a pocket size tug-boat. The one on the right in that picture is commonly known as a barge pusher i think, And thats what they do.

[charlesp]

The one on the right is a Century Plus.

The term 'Barge Pusher' refers to the heavy duty versions of the 102. AHC, THC etc.

[The Tinker]

Easiest way to fix broken intake stub is to get another block from Graham at simply seagulls. He has reasonable ones at good prices. It is possible to machine a new stub up and drill and fit it to the barrel. But will be never as good as original.

[Sylvester]

OK thanks guys as I only use a dingy sounds like I won't be needing this larger prop so might have to sell it on .

question from before
I have lots of high temp engine paint will this be suitable for the tank and prop housing , I have lots of black and silver left over .

also silly me didn't read the instructions properly and now I have removed the drive-shaft housing from the exhaust flange (after many hours of heating and smashing )
so what's a good way to fit them back together all aligned .

Thanks
sylvester