Saving Old Seagulls

I've been fiddling with and electric pusher for a canoe. The basics is wiper motor, stuck in a 75mm pvc T-joint with the shaft going through an oil seal. Tested my own home grown prop cut and bend from 3mm aluminium sheet. The prop is bend in more or less the shape I want it, it works great as a fan ...

Mmmm. Been looking at the bobbin. Can the bobbin slide of the core? Why buy new wire if the old wire is still good? Is that for a wipika coil?

HT coils I have found faulty was usually the thin wire burning off near the "outlet" tag. Sometimes a sharp edge somewhere on the tab causes the coil to arc ...

I have a 40Plus from my uncle that was not pumping water, in fact the faster the motor run, the less water came out. Its now fixed and its pumping a thick stream right down to sputter speed. I'm sure the impeller was the wrong way around, but struggled so much getting the water pump off I can't ...

After my last misfiring bouts I pulled of the flywheel and backplate. The cam screw for the points was a bit scew, so I wanted to tap it straight. I simply used a centre punch on the back of it below the backplate to tap the flanges out a bit. Now it does not lift sideways anymore when I turn it ...

I've been a bit busy with my other pet project, a PVC dolly for my canoe. Will be happy to explain the dolly plan if anyone interested.

Back to gearboxes... I understand the thrust washer is steel? Mine was brass washer against crown gear and steel washer at back of gearbox. I think the steel ...

Thanks guys!

What you said made sense. This particular gull was plucked, boiled, scrubbed and put back together! Flywheel cam is smooth and shiny, points heel is making good contact with cam. Points itself also like new. Even had the flywheel remagnitized with the drill. It sure put some spark back ...

I'm doing as you said, I need to double check my procedure to ascertain I am doing it as I should. Right from the start I set the gap at fully open. Originally I think my problem was mostly loose backplate, but after setting the gap at 0,5mm at TDC seemed to smooth the seagull out rather than at ...

Maybe this has been mentioned. The hard rubber fuel pipe had a leak at the crimp because it started pulling out. I fixed it by opening the crimp then dunking the pipe in boiling water to soften it up. I pushed it back in over the lips of the nozzle while still burning hot. The crimp I closed with a ...

I have played quite extensively with points gap over the week end on my Century 100 Villiers carb.



What is the correct method of setting the points gap? I turned the motor to TDC (by removing the spark plug and physically checking) and set the gap to 0,5mm. Then test tank is perfect with prop ...

I've posted a bit about my troubles in other posts.

The basics is that my Century is running very well in a test tank. On the boat however its running very poor. I've checked the usual, i.e. not to deeply submerged, points, spark, fuel/oil and fiddled with the needle setting on the water. I ...

I was suspicious of my Century 100 gearbox leaking oil in large amounts, especially when the motor is lifted up. After some test tank runs, I checked the oil levels, and as was said once, "if its not leaking oil, its not a Seagull--- or empty. Mine was empty. I pulled of the gearbox and form the ...

Got may Seagull to the water. It does have some serious hygrofobia though. Got it puttering fairly well for the first few minutes on 15:1, but it does four stroke often. I adjusted the needle this way and that to get it better, no real change. So I dunked some 10:1 in there, ok, maybe more like 9:1 ...

The plan is to head out to the water over the week end.

I only have the #3 needle. And I want to get the fuel/oil mix to 20:1 if possible without the needle change as per the FAQ.

So far adjusting the needle makes no real difference in the running. The oil should be able to go down to 25:1 ...

Can't help you with exhaust size, but mine also leaks at top and bottom, i.e. slight trickle of oil coming out. The clamps could only be so tight. If the leaks is explosive puffs of smoke errupting from the ends that's a different story.... :)

Try some "Gasket maker" in the joints (don't know ...

My Villiers is stock standars 10:1. After reading the FAQ, I decided to go for leaner mix on the number 3 needle. I set myself starting on 15:1 mix and decreasing the oil. Without any adjustments to the needle the motor run well under load with the 15:1 mix. (Load = Wastebin with prop spinning, and ...