My Villiers is stock standars 10:1. After reading the FAQ, I decided to go for leaner mix on the number 3 needle. I set myself starting on 15:1 mix and decreasing the oil. Without any adjustments to the needle the motor run well under load with the 15:1 mix. (Load = Wastebin with prop spinning, and added some friction to flywheel with rag.) So I adjusted needle two turns down. No difference, except perhaps a bit less smelly. I am willing to go for a 20:1 mix if possible. But having no appreciable difference in needle setting, how will I know when I'm out of what the motor can handle? Maybe I don't get four stroking, but perhaps there's a hole being burned into the piston? What is signs that I may overdo it even if the motor is running smooth?
Regards
How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
I converted the Featherweight that I use for my tender to 25:1 aeons ago. Fitted the new needle, changed the fuel mix and then readjusted the needle setting until it runs with the minimum of four stroking. Actually a tad more than 3 turns below flush now! No holes in the piston yet, nor should there be if the needle is adjusted so that it runs properly.
I find that you cannot do the adjustment in a bin. You need to get out on the water .
I find that you cannot do the adjustment in a bin. You need to get out on the water .
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
The plan is to head out to the water over the week end.
I only have the #3 needle. And I want to get the fuel/oil mix to 20:1 if possible without the needle change as per the FAQ.
So far adjusting the needle makes no real difference in the running. The oil should be able to go down to 25:1 reardless of the needle, it won't make a difference to the lubrication, but the mixture will be very much richer at the same needle setting, so I understand the need to "lean out" the mixture. Can't the same be achieved by using lower octane fuel? (I can get only 95 octane, inland 93 is available) The batch of fuel I currently use is old lawnmower fuel, a few months old and the motor run very happily on it. Its easy enough to store old fuel until the octane goes down!
I only have the #3 needle. And I want to get the fuel/oil mix to 20:1 if possible without the needle change as per the FAQ.
So far adjusting the needle makes no real difference in the running. The oil should be able to go down to 25:1 reardless of the needle, it won't make a difference to the lubrication, but the mixture will be very much richer at the same needle setting, so I understand the need to "lean out" the mixture. Can't the same be achieved by using lower octane fuel? (I can get only 95 octane, inland 93 is available) The batch of fuel I currently use is old lawnmower fuel, a few months old and the motor run very happily on it. Its easy enough to store old fuel until the octane goes down!
-
Charles uk
- Posts: 4971
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
Why would you want to deprive a Seagull that is no longer in it's teenage years of lubrication?
Worn bearings, I would expect to not like lube starvation, from a safety angle, I would have thought it was better to finish any trip you undertake, with a working Seagull.
Perhaps considering your Seagulls wear & tear it might be better to keep the oil ratio the same or even increase it.
It's difficult to answer questions without full details of your motor & useage, like serial number, boat type & details of your trips, do you plan to cruise it up a canal or cross the North Atlantic.
Worn bearings, I would expect to not like lube starvation, from a safety angle, I would have thought it was better to finish any trip you undertake, with a working Seagull.
Perhaps considering your Seagulls wear & tear it might be better to keep the oil ratio the same or even increase it.
It's difficult to answer questions without full details of your motor & useage, like serial number, boat type & details of your trips, do you plan to cruise it up a canal or cross the North Atlantic.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
I run all my seagulls except for the seagull century on 10:1, I figure that they are designed for it. They are all old and original.
the silver century has the 25:1 conversion but it is a fully rebuilt motor including crank bushes.
the silver century has the 25:1 conversion but it is a fully rebuilt motor including crank bushes.
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
Why do you not want to change the needle? they are now available and not expensive. Also don't forget it is not recommended to change the mixture of older motors due to bearing differences
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
The batch of fuel I currently use is old lawnmower fuel
Is there a war on?
i just keep it simple
unleaded from the garage and 10/1 mix
never have a problem.....
Is there a war on?
i just keep it simple
unleaded from the garage and 10/1 mix
never have a problem.....
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
Dont come running for help when the outboard is difficult to start.The batch of fuel I currently use is old lawnmower fuel
I run my lawnmower on old outboard fuel but if it does not start I'm not stranded at sea somewhere, just got long grass for a few more days.
Re: How to be sure oi/fuel is correct?
Got may Seagull to the water. It does have some serious hygrofobia though. Got it puttering fairly well for the first few minutes on 15:1, but it does four stroke often. I adjusted the needle this way and that to get it better, no real change. So I dunked some 10:1 in there, ok, maybe more like 9:1 as I forgot my fuel funnel and spilled a bit of fuel. Then the motor was worse than ever. I can get the motor starting fairly easily, but it won't run for long and sputters to standstill. I gave up and spend a lovely afternoon rowing a bit.
I think this motor has had it. I will try and do a compression test just to be sure, and remove the head for the fun. The gearbox is also a horror story, I will post a new take on the gearbox.
To sum up. Motor had a leaking block. fixed by welding an outer casing to it to keep the water in. Next it won't fire. Fixed by spinning it with a drill and getting the magneto "recharged." Then timing was erratic, find loose HT lead, and backplate screw. Biggest problem was points gap was not set at TDC but max opening.Gearbox pinion bush severly worn out and pinion gear also in bad state. Sort of fixed it gearbox. Test tank and "rag friction" load was good, but real world running is still very bad. I suspect compression or leaky crankcase, or possible unfound crack in cylinder.
Update: Compression seems fine. Stripped down the whole motor down to crank. Can't find anything untoward. I did manage to accidentally shear of a stud holding the block to the crank. Resealed things, started motor without gearbox and drive shaft just to check if it runs.
I would appreciate possible solutions.
Regards
I think this motor has had it. I will try and do a compression test just to be sure, and remove the head for the fun. The gearbox is also a horror story, I will post a new take on the gearbox.
To sum up. Motor had a leaking block. fixed by welding an outer casing to it to keep the water in. Next it won't fire. Fixed by spinning it with a drill and getting the magneto "recharged." Then timing was erratic, find loose HT lead, and backplate screw. Biggest problem was points gap was not set at TDC but max opening.Gearbox pinion bush severly worn out and pinion gear also in bad state. Sort of fixed it gearbox. Test tank and "rag friction" load was good, but real world running is still very bad. I suspect compression or leaky crankcase, or possible unfound crack in cylinder.
Update: Compression seems fine. Stripped down the whole motor down to crank. Can't find anything untoward. I did manage to accidentally shear of a stud holding the block to the crank. Resealed things, started motor without gearbox and drive shaft just to check if it runs. I would appreciate possible solutions.
Regards