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OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:47 pm
by Henk
Well, I took the advice, and took the head off. I think it was a good idea.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 8:51 pm
by Henk
I also took the water pump housing apart.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:31 pm
by whigum
Hello again Henk :) Yep, that water jacket does look rather packed up with crud..

Here is what I did with my Century block: I used a long thin screwdriver to loosen up all the rusty muck, scraping and poking around inside.. and then some tapping with a rubber mallet to loosen it all some more (may not work so well if it's wet). Tipped that out, did it a few more times. I then blocked the inlet and outlet to the jacket, and filled it up with white vinegar (mild acid, so breaks rust/crud apart), left over night, then repeated previous steps. The block was then pretty well clear :) Hope that helps.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 9:51 pm
by headdownarseup
Now would be a good time to assess how much further you want to go with this rebuild.
What you've done so far is a good way to go for peace of mind.The engine blocks will get a bit bunged up, this seems quite normal for a lot of seagulls these days. Thumbs up from me for having a go at this job.
Don't panic, we've seen this a hundred times or more.
The square drive shaft that is now exposed will probably benefit from some rust treatment. Also a good opportunity to see how much play there is in the drive pinion.
Take it apart if you think you can (better if you can so you can do a proper job) otherwise leave in place and treat the rust as you see it.
If you decide to replace the pump housing gasket, then the driveshaft will have to be removed first.This will almost certainly be corroded in place and will probably be a sod to get shifted. It's a tricky job, but if you think you're able then go for it.

If you're thinking of going deeper into this outboard, could i suggest a good blowtorch for those stubborn jobs. Don't want to go breaking any rusty bolts do we?

All good so far

Jon

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:02 pm
by Henk
Cheers Whigum. I did the same as you, screwdriver and a long Allan key, and tapping with the rubber handle of a hammer. I'll try the vinigar tomorrow.
The amount of crud in the tub is about half of what has come out so far...

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 10:30 pm
by whigum
Welcome :) That looks like quite a lot you got out there, I'd say it was definitely a good idea to clean it! Just don't store that mess in an old coffee jar, might give somebody a surprise :D

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sun Apr 23, 2017 11:31 pm
by Henk
headdownarseup wrote:Now would be a good time to assess how much further you want to go with this rebuild.
What you've done so far is a good way to go for peace of mind.The engine blocks will get a bit bunged up, this seems quite normal for a lot of seagulls these days. Thumbs up from me for having a go at this job.
Don't panic, we've seen this a hundred times or more.
The square drive shaft that is now exposed will probably benefit from some rust treatment. Also a good opportunity to see how much play there is in the drive pinion.
Take it apart if you think you can (better if you can so you can do a proper job) otherwise leave in place and treat the rust as you see it.
If you decide to replace the pump housing gasket, then the driveshaft will have to be removed first.This will almost certainly be corroded in place and will probably be a sod to get shifted. It's a tricky job, but if you think you're able then go for it.

If you're thinking of going deeper into this outboard, could i suggest a good blowtorch for those stubborn jobs. Don't want to go breaking any rusty bolts do we?

All good so far

Jon
Thanks Jon. The drive shaft has rust (scale) on the bottom half, but a good (careful ) hammering indicates no weakness.
I want to replace the oil seals, but struggle with the cover over the lower seal, and how to remove the pinion from the drive shaft. That then seems to cover pretty much most of it, without taking the piston of the conrod and the crank out. I'll set about sourcing the various gaskets etc tomorrow.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Thu Apr 27, 2017 10:53 pm
by Henk
I'm making the list of parts to be ordered, and when I took the head off, there were three (3) head gaskets in place. Is that right?

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 4:20 am
by tambikeboy
Think you'll find it's only one they're layered.

.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:43 am
by Henk
tambikeboy wrote:Think you'll find it's only one they're layered.

.
I see. Cheers.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Fri Apr 28, 2017 7:49 pm
by headdownarseup
This might help if you're shopping for bits.

Base gasket
Cylinder head gasket (as per Tam's reply they're layers of copper and crimped around the edges.)
Pump housing gasket (depending on if you decide to remove the drive shaft from the box)
Depending on how well you get on with removing the drive shaft from the gearbox, a new impeller might be a good shout too.
Oil seals for the gearbox (don't ask me what the part numbers are)
A new gearbox end cap gasket
New screws to hold the end cap on. (stainless ones are available i think)
A new drain/filler plug for the end cap
A new spark plug
A new throttle cable.
Some fresh oil for the gearbox when you're done.
This would be a good time to measure the piston ring gap as well. If you suspect your rings might be a bit worn, now is the time to order a new set.

Try John first for the above.

That should keep you busy for a bit :P

Jon

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sat Apr 29, 2017 4:47 pm
by Henk
headdownarseup wrote:This might help if you're shopping for bits.

Base gasket
Cylinder head gasket (as per Tam's reply they're layers of copper and crimped around the edges.)
Pump housing gasket (depending on if you decide to remove the drive shaft from the box)
Depending on how well you get on with removing the drive shaft from the gearbox, a new impeller might be a good shout too.
Oil seals for the gearbox (don't ask me what the part numbers are)
A new gearbox end cap gasket
New screws to hold the end cap on. (stainless ones are available i think)
A new drain/filler plug for the end cap
A new spark plug
A new throttle cable.
Some fresh oil for the gearbox when you're done.
This would be a good time to measure the piston ring gap as well. If you suspect your rings might be a bit worn, now is the time to order a new set.

Try John first for the above.

That should keep you busy for a bit :P

Jon
Thanks. I'll be getting in touch with John as soon as I know how far I get with pulling it all apart. But I'm a bit waylaid atm, because we found a boat for which the Seagull is a perfect back up... :oops: 8) :lol:

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Thu May 11, 2017 5:01 pm
by Henk
I ordered the parts from John, arrived this morning. The Seagull is now running fine again, and pumping water like a good un. Thanks for all your help.

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 11:46 am
by CharlesSA
Need some help...can anyone let me know how to remove the short pinion drive from a century lower gear?
Thanks

Re: OMG part II. Off with his head.

Posted: Sat Jan 05, 2019 12:23 pm
by Hugz
I had to weld a plate on to the top of mine and drill 2 holes and use two nuts and bolts to wind it apart. That was on a 102 box. It wasn't my finest flick. Hope music doesnt send you to sleep.

https://youtu.be/HQh7GZVrGjk