An FVP in USA

[water bug]

Here is my attempt at revitalizing an FVP. I would appreciate comments as to correctness . It is FVP 6343, flywheel R63/A61 M6-51 Markings. Gear box has round water intake holes, large 3 blade prop, Long range canted tank, Villiers carb 1/2" Though if thought correct a 7/16" could be installed, Plain flywheel cover ( made from a worn one that had lettering), Front mounted tiller with throttle lever. Fuel tube and throttle wire still to be attached, Short and plated transom clamp assembly. The torque tube is held in by pinch bolt , not threaded. Questions, comments... WB

[water bug]

A few

more pictures:

[Keith.P]

It looks pretty good so far, I don't know about the clamp on pump housing though.
The fuel pipe looks much too big, the tiller handle should be brass, it should be painted black anyway, the split pin on the tilt lock should be brass, it has a later HT lead, a later replacement tiller L shaped pin and plastic stop and a later fuel cap.
Will that do.

[Oyster 49]

Nice job Art.
That water pump housing with the clamp is from a later engine. I have an original screw on one somewhere. However it looks like you will need to make a new threaded shaft to fit to it.

Bending pipe to a tight coil is quite difficult! How did you do it?

[Oyster 49]

I bet Jeremy will be keen to record your serial number and engine details too!

[Charles uk]

Shouldn't the thrust block be the two part cotton reel cone? type?

[tambikeboy]

Very nice so far. Some minor changes and all is good .yes Charles 2 part thrust block *(hens teeth) fuel pipe does look a tad oversized but might level out when connected. .TOP MARKS SO FAR....keep it up I'd get shot of waterpump housing easy fix...and of course drive shaft tube

[water bug]

Thank you all for the comments. I will take off the notes and see what I can do to make corrections. Please someone post a picture of the two piece (hens teeth??) thrust block. and one of the correct earlier tank cap and one of the earlier style high tension wire needed. . I may have a threaded water pump housing but as said that would necessitate a threaded torque tube as well. SO I have some more work to do. I am VERY glad that collectors in the UK are being very particular with originality. A few years ago it seemed to me that any mix and match of bits would do, No longer. Thank you for the assistance. WB

[water bug]

BTW, The tiller is brass, but plated. Can paint black. The tilt lock casting is aluminum.
Bending the copper tubing: Heat anneal, bend round a wood mandrel, Fuss with bending the ends. I think I silver soldered them on.
I have a little "home" grade tin plating kit , bought from a Auto restoration supplier, so the copper tube was tin plated.
It was finish polished before bending . WB

[headdownarseup]

Not that i'm any expert with these, but i reckon Jeremy might say that the tillers were'nt painted at all, just plain brass.
Thrust block i think should probably be the rarer "cotton reel" type (2 piece) although i gave my aluminium thrust block (as per your pics) to Jeremy last year (also another rarer part, hang onto it)
Carb i'm almost certain should be the smaller 7/16".
Nice job with the fuel line btw. (i think most people would be hard pushed to notice unless you actually said anything)
I have an FV with the same fuel tank in the 11000's, not sure where these canted oval tanks fit into the sequence of FVP's though!

Either way, Jeremy is the man you need to speak to in order to confirm what needs doing.

Very nice all the same.

Jon

[Charles uk]

Jon if you look in the old Seagull paperwork, if think you'll find the "canted" tanks were sold as an optional extra called a long range fuel tank.

I think it was in some of the stuff that Jeremy found, I remember seeing a price of something like £1-17-6d.

The tiller looks long what's the correct length?

[headdownarseup]

I think 9" for the tiller length. Could even be shorter as it's a fixed tiller, possibly 6".Not too different from an FV of similar age except for the lower unit. Jeremy will know for sure.

I didn't know that about the canted oval tank! (learn something new every day it seems )
They're actually the same size as a conventionally mounted 40 series brass fuel tank, so in the grand scheme of things a canted tank would appear to hold more fuel (which they do) compared to the smaller round tanks.
Both of which have their own appeal.

Jon

[Keith.P]

According to Jeremy's data the stub tiller was commonly 5" in length.

[tambikeboy]

Thank you all for the comments. I will take off the notes and see what I can do to make corrections. Please someone post a picture of the two piece (hens teeth??) thrust block. and one of the correct earlier tank cap and one of the earlier style high tension wire needed. . I may have a threaded water pump housing but as said that would necessitate a threaded torque tube as well. SO I have some more work to do. I am VERY glad that collectors in the UK are being very particular with originality. A few years ago it seemed to me that any mix and match of bits would do, No longer. Thank you for the assistance. WB

[Oyster 49]

9" is way too long for a tiller stub. I was curious and also looked at Jeremy's info. Useful reference tool actually. Keith's right 5" is very common.

a canted tank would appear to hold more fuel (which they do) compared to the smaller round tanks.

They were sold as a long range tank, optional extra They are a slightly different shape to the SJM tanks, the ends are slightly more rounded.