Evening!
Just purchased my first Seagull - been able to ID it as a Forty Plus, but can't decipher the date code - so first and most obvious qestion is..... how olds SJP202W9?
Next question is just as obvious - anyone local (CharlesP?) who would be prepared to help me strip it down for restoration? its not pretty, but its complete, and compression sounded good (don't know if it runs or not!)
Certain parts look clean and newer like HT lead and plug, so it may have been used recently, but if anyone local is prepared to spare some time (and a thimbleful of fuel) to see if it works that also would be appreciated - i'm loathed to spend out on fuel and oil to check it runs if its going to go off in the (no doubt) months that its stripping and repainting etc will take me!
As well as the requests for help and advice, if anyone knows where there is a 8 to 10 foot row boat/dinghy/dory up for sale locally, please let me know... would prefer something that can be put on top of car, so ideally GRP/plastic construction
I live in Southampton, but travel for work up and down M3 corridor and out towards Bournemouth and Poole frequently
Thanks!
Aaron
Hi - new, and asking all the familiar questions!
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Mentioned by name, makes it kinda difficult not to reply, eh?
Sure, Aaron, if you're down this way (Poole, that is) we can ahve a play with it.
Bit stumped by the date code, W9 shouldn't really exist. I'll try to find out a little more. Does your Forty Plus by any chance have Wipac ignition?
I strongly suspect that most on this forum would mix up a pint of 2 stroke, stick it in the tank, half throttle, and see if she starts. If she does then don't keep her running out of water for more than a few seconds. Then try her in water to see if she pumps coolant.
If she doesn't then come back to us..
Good luck
Sure, Aaron, if you're down this way (Poole, that is) we can ahve a play with it.
Bit stumped by the date code, W9 shouldn't really exist. I'll try to find out a little more. Does your Forty Plus by any chance have Wipac ignition?
I strongly suspect that most on this forum would mix up a pint of 2 stroke, stick it in the tank, half throttle, and see if she starts. If she does then don't keep her running out of water for more than a few seconds. Then try her in water to see if she pumps coolant.
If she doesn't then come back to us..
Good luck
I'd clean and gap the plug, maybe clean the carb float chamber and take a peep in the fuel tank before trying it I think.
As far as a dinghy goes. A couple of sheets of ply and a few hardwood scraps and you can quickly have one of these. Easily light enough to lift onto the car singlehanded (slightly more difficult with SWMBO helping) and easily rowed or driven with a 40 Featherweight. Not visible in this photo but a couple of wheels (found near a supermarket) on twin skegs makes it easy to wheel to the water's edge. Actually a tad shorter than 8ft overall but 8ft measured round the gun'ls. A few days less than 30 years old when this pic was taken earlier this year.
Click the thumnail to enlarge
..................................
As far as a dinghy goes. A couple of sheets of ply and a few hardwood scraps and you can quickly have one of these. Easily light enough to lift onto the car singlehanded (slightly more difficult with SWMBO helping) and easily rowed or driven with a 40 Featherweight. Not visible in this photo but a couple of wheels (found near a supermarket) on twin skegs makes it easy to wheel to the water's edge. Actually a tad shorter than 8ft overall but 8ft measured round the gun'ls. A few days less than 30 years old when this pic was taken earlier this year.
Click the thumnail to enlarge
..................................
Last edited by Vic on Wed Aug 01, 2007 2:22 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Thansk for the replies!
Will attempt to initiate divorce proceedings by trying to get engine running as described this weekend - but at the risk of sounding dumb, i guess the best way to stop the engine is to block the carb intake? shutting fuel tap (if it works!) could take a while to starve it of fuel
And how to prime? turn engine over and vacuum draws fuel through, or is that a priming pump on side of carb body?
You'll grow tired of questions eventually
Boat is exactly what i'm after - but as my workshop is the kitchen/patio/7*5shed (thats full already) self build is not an option!
Aaron
Will attempt to initiate divorce proceedings by trying to get engine running as described this weekend - but at the risk of sounding dumb, i guess the best way to stop the engine is to block the carb intake? shutting fuel tap (if it works!) could take a while to starve it of fuel
And how to prime? turn engine over and vacuum draws fuel through, or is that a priming pump on side of carb body?
You'll grow tired of questions eventually
Boat is exactly what i'm after - but as my workshop is the kitchen/patio/7*5shed (thats full already) self build is not an option!
Aaron
UPDATE..........
Clamped it to the garden gate and tried it with a small amount of two stroke mix left over from my lawn mower which died last year (I know its wrong, but it was just to see if it fired)
Compression with plug in is strong, take plug out and it spins freely, but nothing would make it fire into life - working alone, so no way of checking for a spark (safely!)
Gave up when I started to get dirty looks from the kitchen window from SWMBO, and when putting it away found that if its tilted slightly off upright that fuel leaks from edge of carb bowl where it joins metal housing of carb, and fuel pipe/inner of carb intake is that horrible gone off orangey colour from old fuel so think carb may be weak link at this stage
Will continue to strip and clean/polish/paint - guessing there can't be anything horribly wrong with it
Compression with plug in is strong, take plug out and it spins freely, but nothing would make it fire into life - working alone, so no way of checking for a spark (safely!)
Gave up when I started to get dirty looks from the kitchen window from SWMBO, and when putting it away found that if its tilted slightly off upright that fuel leaks from edge of carb bowl where it joins metal housing of carb, and fuel pipe/inner of carb intake is that horrible gone off orangey colour from old fuel so think carb may be weak link at this stage
Will continue to strip and clean/polish/paint - guessing there can't be anything horribly wrong with it
Hi aaron,i may have just what you need!!see my advert on "boats and outboards" under inflatbles ref f153916. I've had it up for sale for a while with little interest so if its what you need you can have it for £200. rather than the advertised price.Its well capable of being transported on a roof rack and goes lovely with a 40 plus.My direct number is on the ad so give me a call.
regards paul
Gave up when I started to get dirty looks from the kitchen window from SWMBO
How annoying!
i'm loathed to spend out on fuel and oil to check it runs
doesnt get much tighter than that!
and when putting it away found that if its tilted slightly off upright that fuel leaks from edge of carb bowl where it joins metal housing of carb
normal..mine dose that
but at the risk of sounding dumb, i guess the best way to stop the engine is to block the carb intake?
shutting the throttle works for me!
Top tip...spin it with a drill till[hopefully]...it starts!
worked for me!
Not that i clame to be an expert!
How annoying!
i'm loathed to spend out on fuel and oil to check it runs
doesnt get much tighter than that!
and when putting it away found that if its tilted slightly off upright that fuel leaks from edge of carb bowl where it joins metal housing of carb
normal..mine dose that
but at the risk of sounding dumb, i guess the best way to stop the engine is to block the carb intake?
shutting the throttle works for me!
Top tip...spin it with a drill till[hopefully]...it starts!
worked for me!
Not that i clame to be an expert!
-
CatiGull
- Posts: 267
- Joined: Sun Mar 12, 2006 2:35 am
- Location: Delmar on Hudson NY USA.........3000 nm west of THe Black Country
Charles - wonder if you could edit that email in the above post to make it a non-working link to save that poor soul from a spam onslaught
nasty people write things called bots which scan forums for email addresses and then sell them to spam lists...
If you want to send someone your email, either use the Private Message function on the board or write it in the form
myname (at) mydomain.com
or the like...
nasty people write things called bots which scan forums for email addresses and then sell them to spam lists...
If you want to send someone your email, either use the Private Message function on the board or write it in the form
myname (at) mydomain.com
or the like...
Stephen
Awenke Yacht Club
New Baltimore NY
S/V Catigale
Macgregor 26X
Island 17 Sloop
Awenke Yacht Club
New Baltimore NY
S/V Catigale
Macgregor 26X
Island 17 Sloop
Hi SJP - didn't know if this column addressed your problems - firstly, do the basics to get a dead motor running - check for a spark - I do this by having the plug out and making an earth connection with some wire - I use a short wire with a crocodile clip (are they still called that?) at each end - one to the plug, the other to a decent earth ppint on the motor.
Spin the motor, which is now easy with the plug out, and see if you have a spark. If not, the most likely cause is the points having oxidised - cured by running emery paper between the points a few times. In extreme cases, it can be necessary to use a fine file - not ideal because the points wil ideally have a polished or smooth surface for maximum contact, btu will at least tell you if you now have a spark. This can all be done without taking the flywheel off - helps if you have any experience as a gynaecologist!.
Assuming you have the sparklies, next problem is fuel delivery - clean out everything - tank, filters (on the fuel tap if still there) and at the banjo connection into the carb, the carb. bowl and the jet, and then you'll have to splash out on petrol and two-stroke oil, or convert some from the lawn mower (assuming its not electric)
The carb will let fuel escape when you tip it - there is an overflow 'ole near the top of the float bowl on older carbs - it just comes of the carb inlet on later carbs! Put this lot all back together and go for a start up, first having mollified the SWMBO ( what is that?). Regale her with promises of moonlit trips and wine cooled in the river - don't mention clouds of two stroke smoke and noise.
I have an SDO (Short Dark One) - often quite irrational, but has given up with me and outboards.
Let us know how you get on, and we'll go to the next stage. Rick.
Just worked it out - She Who Must Be Obeyed. Resist - like I don't!
Spin the motor, which is now easy with the plug out, and see if you have a spark. If not, the most likely cause is the points having oxidised - cured by running emery paper between the points a few times. In extreme cases, it can be necessary to use a fine file - not ideal because the points wil ideally have a polished or smooth surface for maximum contact, btu will at least tell you if you now have a spark. This can all be done without taking the flywheel off - helps if you have any experience as a gynaecologist!.
Assuming you have the sparklies, next problem is fuel delivery - clean out everything - tank, filters (on the fuel tap if still there) and at the banjo connection into the carb, the carb. bowl and the jet, and then you'll have to splash out on petrol and two-stroke oil, or convert some from the lawn mower (assuming its not electric)
The carb will let fuel escape when you tip it - there is an overflow 'ole near the top of the float bowl on older carbs - it just comes of the carb inlet on later carbs! Put this lot all back together and go for a start up, first having mollified the SWMBO ( what is that?). Regale her with promises of moonlit trips and wine cooled in the river - don't mention clouds of two stroke smoke and noise.
I have an SDO (Short Dark One) - often quite irrational, but has given up with me and outboards.
Let us know how you get on, and we'll go to the next stage. Rick.
Just worked it out - She Who Must Be Obeyed. Resist - like I don't!
Hello again SJP - overlooked a couple of your other questions.
The engine will self-prime if the carb and everything is in order. use the choke flap at first, though often it isn't necessary.
The button on the carb I think you are referring to is a 'tickler', which holds the float down to fill the float bowl up with petrol for starting from cold. With a warm engine it isn't necessary to use this. Just hold the button down until fuel spills out from somewhere - once you are familiar with the engine, you'll know roughly how long to hold the button down for without leaving fuel everywhere.
Just hold the button down for a few seconds - some people feel the need to rattle away like a demented morse code operator, but this ain't good, and can even bruise the older style brass float.
The engine can usually be set to stop when the throttle is fully closed, by means of leaving enough slack in the cable adjustment - muffling the carb by hand can just introduce a rich mixture into the engine which might make it difficult to start again. On the last run of the day, turn the fuel tap off, which helps to use up any petrol still in the float bowl, and go round in circles or run up the bank/shore. Experience will tell you roughly how long you have from turning off the fuel to the motor stopping. Rick
The engine will self-prime if the carb and everything is in order. use the choke flap at first, though often it isn't necessary.
The button on the carb I think you are referring to is a 'tickler', which holds the float down to fill the float bowl up with petrol for starting from cold. With a warm engine it isn't necessary to use this. Just hold the button down until fuel spills out from somewhere - once you are familiar with the engine, you'll know roughly how long to hold the button down for without leaving fuel everywhere.
Just hold the button down for a few seconds - some people feel the need to rattle away like a demented morse code operator, but this ain't good, and can even bruise the older style brass float.
The engine can usually be set to stop when the throttle is fully closed, by means of leaving enough slack in the cable adjustment - muffling the carb by hand can just introduce a rich mixture into the engine which might make it difficult to start again. On the last run of the day, turn the fuel tap off, which helps to use up any petrol still in the float bowl, and go round in circles or run up the bank/shore. Experience will tell you roughly how long you have from turning off the fuel to the motor stopping. Rick
The rope fendering is laced with on light nylon cord. There are vertical holes drilled through the "teak" spaced to match the pitch of the rope's lay. The cord comes up through a hole then is pulled down into the lay of the rope before being threaded up through the next hole.
I tried other methods of attaching it but this has been the most successful and neatest by far. The ends are secured on the transom with some nylon webbing and brass plates
You can just make it out. A bit clearer in the other picture. Its is not the first time I have been asked so I will have to photgraph it properly sometime
click on the thumbnails to enlarge
...........
..........
I tried other methods of attaching it but this has been the most successful and neatest by far. The ends are secured on the transom with some nylon webbing and brass plates
You can just make it out. A bit clearer in the other picture. Its is not the first time I have been asked so I will have to photgraph it properly sometime
click on the thumbnails to enlarge
...........
..........