Saving Old Seagulls

Can the Ht lead be changed on a wipac mk 2 coil? The engine in question is W490J7
I know the HT lead can be removed from the coil itself by taking the clip off and unplugging it. But can the lead itself come out of the plug?


The other question is can I swap the base plate and flywheel from the "W" to my LLS 34807J9 ?
The "LLS" is in a lot better condition than the "W" only the LLS has a Villers coil. The Villers coil works well and still looks like new, but I want a trouble free (as trouble as it can be) for the Waikato next Easter.

This is how I got the LLS


It started on the second pull!! The guy I got it off was in his 60'S. he told me it was his dads and his dad had been dead for at least 35 years. The engine had been sitting is a shed all that time with a cover over it! The guy said that the engine was only ever used in fresh water, and it would be nice to keep it that way.

The only thing I need to really need to fix on the LLS is the fuel hose (it is missing the nut in the hose that fits to the tap)


Any Idea on the cost of a new fuel hose in New Zealand?

But can the lead itself come out of the plug?

Yes, remove brass pin from spring, use a slotted screwdriver that fits inside the spring, the screw holds the spring and the lead in, be gentle with the spring.

The other question is can I swap the base plate and flywheel from the "W" to my LLS 34807J9 ?

You will have to readjust the timing, but yes you can do that.

The fuel hose.

Comes complete with nuts, common and easy to find.

Any Idea on the cost of a new fuel hose in New Zealand?

Don't know.

This might help with the HT Lead.


Don't know were the picture came from.
If its yours Sorry or Thanks.

No need to re-adjust the timing as both motors will have the same base plate location dimple on the crankcase. ( looking down at the flywheel,tiller pointing towards you, the locating screw will be at the 2 o'clock position and the HTlead at the 4 o'clock position) Same points gap on both ignition types.
It doesn't even matter what type of ignition is fitted to either motor as long as the complete ignition system gets swapped over i.e the complete baseplate and flywheel along with any rope pulleys that are currently fitted.

with regards to the fuel pipe, have a look for any old 40 series motor (there must be literally thousands of them over there) and rob the fuel pipe from that. (same pipe for 40 and century motor with a villiers carb) The only thing to watch out for is where the fuel tap is situated under the tank. (long range brass oval tanks had a slightly different spacing on the tap so the standard fuel line won't reach) Going by the pics, get another fuel line and you'll be fine.

nice easy fix

good luck with them

jon

Thanks for the replies guys. It helps lots.
I will have a go at changing the ht lead and see if I get a spark (the coil seemed to be ok)

Bear in mind the screw is brass - and the slot is quite lean in depth. Make sure your small screwdriver is really sweet, flat and square - so its gets a good purchase on the srew slot.
The springs are awkward to replicate - so look after them.

Remove the brass ht pip - don't be tempted to extend the spring to put the driver through the coils !( can be done but tends ro distort the spring )
The screw is an odd size that I think is no longer made ( may be wrong there ) It is quite long for its diameter. You can easily replace it with modern brass screw - but the heads are wider and need filing smaller to go down the hole.

With the new ht lead - it helps to spike the lead with a sharp point to allow the screw to get going and bury itself into the core of the lead.
Often the original screws are pretty corroded and worn on the threads - and sometimes have to be replaced as they just won't hold in the lead.
I did about 6 of them a while back, after getting some 'super douper' tinned core HT lead !

Geoff

Hi Nudge,
Have you solved your problem regarding HT lead & fuel pipe
if not I can send you the bits that you need
PM me
Ken
Cheshire Cat 4

I have the Ht lead sorted! The Steel screw had rusted to the point where the tip of it was on longer in contact with the wire. I made up a steel screw to replace the old one now I can get a nice blue spark with just a flip of the flywheel.
Should the screw be brass? Or would it be better made from stainless steel?