my new ''old'' motor

[Massimo]

good evening to all members of the forum.
My name is Massimo and I live in Italy in Genoa, a few days ago, I came into possession of a motor British Seagull Century 100 manufactured in April 1966.
The engine is more than good condition but needs some maintenance chores to awaken from their long slumber in the house the previous owner.

let's start with some photos where you can see the status of use of the engine, you can also see that the fuel tap is not the standard model, probable replaced years ago.
This faucet will not fit the usual cork gasket, but it has a sort of sliding plate, probably made of brass, which blocks or not, the passage of fuel.












Disassembly of the carburetor Villiers occurred in good condition and free from varnish or deposits due to oil residues.

Even after replacing the spark plug with a new Champion D16 I tried to turn the flywheel by hand by placing the candle on the head, but I did not see spark.
Tomorrow I will try to remove the flywheel cover to access the pins and see what state they are.
I tried to unscrew the nut of the flywheel but did not want to move out, also because I find it difficult to exercise the necessary force, in fact I can not hold the flywheel rotating the top nut.
You like you did? There is a special system to hold the flywheel still while you unscrew the nut?

I also bought a bottle of oil to the foot of the correct grade W140 which cost me € 10.

thanks to everyone and see you soon.
Massimo

[livewire]

Hi,

Although not an expert like many here i wouldn't try to remove fly wheel yet.

Firstly i test for a spark by removing spark plug and holding it on the block. I then put a bit of oil in the bore. Then using a socket on the flywheel nut and a ground down bolt to drive it use a cordless drill to turn it over.

To check points use a ring spanner on the flywheel nut and give it a sharp blow with a hammer to undo.

If you still don't have a spark you can try the following....
"Spin the engine up with an electric drill! First remove the plug, then fit a socket to the flywheel nut and a drill to a socket set extension. I use a rechargeable electric drill, but any will do. (Those worried about the friction can squirt a little oil into the bore and carb, to lubricate the motor.)

Spin the motor up, I recon I get to 1500 revs on my drill, maybe a bit less with all the friction, but do that for 5 minutes. Then reconnect plug and lead and look at the spark.... As if by magic it will have increased."

Lastley if you have to remove the flywheel, http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq/flywheel.htm

[phil]

Remove the flywheel nut, then black plastic rope pull plate will be free to remove. As mentioned earlier put a wrench on the flywheel nut and hit the wrench with a hammer, anticlockwise.

There is access to the points through the top of the flywheel.

You should be able to clean the points with # 320 silicon carbide or aluminum oxide sandpaper backed up by a narrow strip of sheet metal. Then clean off with alcohol, set at .020" or 0.5mm gap. This can be done without removing the flywheel. Long thin fingers will make this easier.

You can also test the resistance of the coil's secondary winding with an ohm meter, if you have the meter. The mark 2 coils are most often good.

If the coil is good, but still no spark, reclean the points, I regard spinning with the drill as a last resort. It is possible to damage the crankshaft spinning with a drill.

[Charles uk]

The cordless drill should be used as a last resort rather than the first.

The old rules are still the best!

Flywheel in place

Clean & set the points,
Check ht lead, points wire & spark plug, replace if necessary,
Test for spark by hand.

If no spark, do all that again, I did all that yesterday & got a beautiful spark second time around!

If your Seagull won't start without using a cordless drill, then there is something wrong with it,

Fix it properly

If it won't start at sea, your in big trouble!

[Massimo]

Thanks for the replies, but now my FIRST problem is to find a ring spanner to the exact size of the flywheel nut.
In Italy the wrenches in inches are really not very widespread. Otherwise I'll try the one with the closest metric.
You say that giving a few raps with a hammer on the free end of the wrench, the nut should move?
I also used the WD40 in the hope that filters into the threads of the nut ...
Tomorrow I go to the mechanic and I do provide a wrench of the appropriate size and then hopefully good

[phil]

Do you have adjustable wrenches with smooth gripping surfaces? They will work quite nicely, provided that you tighten well.
They are a relatively inexpensive tool over here and come in a variety of size ranges. They will do an acceptable job if you careful are in their use.

[Charles uk]

Phil it sounds like someone has already overtightened the flywheel nut using a cordless drill or a giant spanner, if that's the case removing the flywheel could prove difficult.

[Collector Inspector]

You can check the magnets with a screwdriver inside the access holes of the flywheel without taking it off by the way. Screwdriver sticks to good and not to bad.

Regards

B

[Massimo]

I tried to unscrew the nut of the flywheel with a big wrench for hydraulic hoses, but none of it to come loose, also because the fly tends to rotate with the nut, thwarting the effort exerted on the wrench.
Do I need a strap wrench to hold the flywheel

[skyetoyman]

A good sharp tap with a hammer on the free end of the spanner usually does it.

[Todd]

If you don't have a strap wrench, you can wind your starter rope around the pulley and tie the end to the tiller mount. It will hold the flywheel while you free the nut.

[Massimo]

I finally had to unscrew the nut of the flywheel, I opened the cover of the pins and that's what I saw.









At first glance it seems to me that turning the flywheel by hand the needles remain closed.
At this point I loose the big screw locking and loosening of the tiny little screw, I moved away from each other.
Conditions of the carving of small screw, this change has been made several times in the past and indelicate!
I clean as you suggested I have the needles and I closer by measuring the distance of 0.20 with a feeler gauge.
The problem now is that tightening the screw locking system, the needles return to close forever thwarting the work of the mobile arm of commands.
And here I had to stop because I had more light on the terrace where I put the engine.
Saturday went ahead with the work.
Please tell me how can I check the secondary coil with the electric meter?
I would just be sure not to miss anything.
Thanks for all your valuable advice.

[Todd]

Please tell me how can I check the secondary coil with the electric meter?

Go here: http://assets.fluke.com/appnotes/electr ... 271b_u.pdf

[skyetoyman]

The previous post looks very handy. Perhaps it should go on "FAQ"

[Massimo]

I am still here, good day everyone, I'm trying to figure out what's wrong with turning on my engine ...
I correct my post because I checked the ignition after you read the guide posted by Todd in which you explain the different problems that may arise, and after carefully all the tests I think I can say that the problem of my engine is in the coil .
In fact, among the HT spark plug terminal and the mass of the engine is total isolation and the multimeter set to 1.00 20khom by indicating on the display.
Under the guidance of Todd this problem may be given by a shortening of the secondary coil.
In fact, the HT cable is perfectly in order.
I also checked the plug that plugs into the coil, make good contact, but so visible, does not seem to have problems.
All this makes me quite nervous because the engine was given to me as working .....