I have a long shaft engine Im using on my 9ft Dinghy, went out yesterday and found I could not get back in at low water. I have noticed that on the shaft is a bracket with 2 bolts on, does this allow me to lift the prop higher in the water ? If so how much do you recomend below the hull of the boat to the prop as Im sure my prop is too low in the water and I am not getting full speed. Its a 40plus Seagull.
Thanks for your replies in advance
Shortening - Lifting Engine
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Re: Shortening - Lifting Engine
the cavitation plate should be roughly level with the lowest point on the transom. I would have thought a short shaft would suit you better.
Two plastic clamps from SOS plus 8mm stainless nuts and bolts but it's not as good as the correct outboard
Two plastic clamps from SOS plus 8mm stainless nuts and bolts but it's not as good as the correct outboard
LLS c 1961 on a crescent 42 boat c 1980 + wspcl c 1976 + 102 SD8561 c 1944 + 102 ACR 1948
Re: Shortening - Lifting Engine
As many people have said in various topics in this forum my friend, it is recommended the prop should be in the water so that the water is 2 inches above the exhaust. This gives all round better performance for starting and for speed.
Gerard
Gerard
Re: Shortening - Lifting Engine
it is recommended the prop should be in the water


'A bad day's fishing is better than a a good day doing anything else'
Re: Shortening - Lifting Engine
A depth adjusting collar might do the trick ... it is as described above as two clamps etc anyway.


Re: Shortening - Lifting Engine
Yes, this depth collar works fine. It's about the same as loostening the regular clamps and worrying the shaft up so that the engine head's much higher (and so that the prop depth is as said by others). The trouble with that alone is that, as you make turns shifting the tiller from side to side, the weight of the engine's going to let it all slip back down through your regular clamps. This collar maintains the height for you. Plus, if I know the seas are going to be deep I can pre-adjust for extra depth so that when I round over the crests the prop won't come out and cavitate.
I suppose some cheap bastard might just use a worm-gear type hose clamp and gain the same effect
-ted
http://lighthousegetaway.com/lights/refuge.html
I suppose some cheap bastard might just use a worm-gear type hose clamp and gain the same effect

-ted
http://lighthousegetaway.com/lights/refuge.html
There is nothing so useless as doing efficiently that which should not be done at all.
- Prof. Peter Drucker
- Prof. Peter Drucker