Anzani Woo Hoo

[Hugz]

Finally got one

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll ... 0538855680

Am I correct in thinking that the motor rotates 360 degrees so in affect goes in reverse?

If this is correct, I'm stoked.

My allegiance to BS might be waning!

http://necrojohnson.fannet.ru/boating/Chaika/Pilot.pdf

OK, I'm hooked. Check this out:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1940s-British-Anz ... 2c5356a43b

[Collector Inspector]

Hi Huggy!

The seller may have waxed lyrical with the falling out of planes etc, that kinda tickeled me mate.

Make sure "It was not dropped on it's Head" (Which I think is its weak spot..............)



Regards

B

[Hugz]

I thought it was a good line! Can't find any info to back it up tho. And I thought it was army green. Can these machines be dated? Spoke to the guy and he informs me that it runs well with water circulation. Need a shear pin which is a piece of brass rod. Found another forum with, I suspect, our Rick on it. You might be on it too.

Seller is a cabinet maker and happy to make a box which is a piece of luck.

Cheers.

[RickUK]

Hi Hugz- was me on the Anzani website - cany apply any ryme or reason to Anzani colours - they come in all shades. I concluded that they must have just dispatched someone down to the local paint shop to purchase 'bin-ends'. Some were blue, some were white with black tanks etc etc.
I had an all green one, which seemed an odd colour for an outboard - more like a piece of garden equipment.

There is no known way to date Pilots - early ones, which I think started around 1950 - had an aluminium tube as a drive leg, whereas the later ones - Mk 3,4 and 5 - had cast aluminium drive legs. they didn't change a whole heap - early ones had Miller ignitions and Amal carbs - later ones went to Zenith carbs and Wipac ignitions, but all interchangeable.
Pilots usually start and cool very well - cooling is from a rubber 'doughnut' running on an eccentric on the prop shaft, so is fairly foolproof. If the doughnut has set to shape through standing, it can be restored by massaging it under hot water, and lubricating with a silicon lubricant.
The shear pin is just a piece of plain brass rod, whic I used to get from model shops - just be careful to avoid brutalising the propshaft which is slotted in the style of Seagull, but can be a problem if the threaded section is out of line, as an aluminium nut has to run on and off freely without chewing up the thread.

The motors are spun around to effectively give reverse - the only trick when adjusting the thrust block is to make sure that the channel on the drive leg and the thrust block channel line up to engage with each other when the motor is turned around. When going to reverse, either do it with the motor stopped and re-start it, or at very low revs., otherwise a strange and alarming snaking motion of the boat occurs in changing from forward to reverse progress!
pm me your address if you need a photocopy of the handbook. RIck

[Collector Inspector]

High Rick, I just let Huggy know the exact opposite actually regarding cast fat legs and the skinny ones..............what I have experienced anyway. I always thort that the cast legs were actually normal but with the advent of the long long long shaft 1947 being the first skinny leg/torque tube arrangement that was utilised for everything made post 1950 for all of them, including the Minor. (R they not the sweetest little Thangs).

They woke up to reduced production costs?

Anzanis are basically a law to themselves with engine numbers not meaning squat, also mentioned to the Hugz.

I mentioned that casting dates are there where the lower crankcase clamps to the tube under the transom clamp swivel. Have to remove the circlip on the skinny models etc to see it. Last two digits are casting year? Worked for me with five of them so far with that but, let me know otherwise if you can eh?

I love this stuff!

Regards

Bruce.

Foot Note (Can anyone tell me what a Foot Note really is)...........In the early 70s, Anzani re-did the Pilot, called it all sorts of names but it went back to the solid cast leg yeh? Was this a marketing thingy to make it look "More American" or, more like an Import motor for the UK market? It ended up with a recoil start and a plastic cowl, very nice piece of kit, painted mainly white which looked the part and probably did stirling service as a small motor for them. They tried the other up to 15Hp not withstanding my fav 18Hp Dyna_Start Lump as well. Um, sounds really cool and slightly different when kicked over for reverse? Can not really describe the sound, just seems.....wrong.

So, the Pilot started at 2Hp and then somehow at the end of it all it was 3.5Hp. Same castings. The early early ones had the water cooled head (47) then they went to air cooled heads with fins. Maybe some efficiency was gained there? Spark plug stayed the same, port timing stayed the same, prop the same and gearbox ratio, the same.

All Good!

[Hugz]

I now have my anzani pilot. Hadn't realised how small they are, and so light. If the power output is the same as a forty I would be definitely using this all the time.

I haven't started it yet but have a couple of questions that I hope you can help me with.

The spark plug lead is pretty rough. Are they available? Or can I make one up? What is the best method of getting the flywheel off?

Sheer pin in the prop.... Would a SS split pin be strong enough. Looks to me that they could be breaking all the time. One advantage of the forty!

And looking at the leg there are two tubes the same size. One would be water but what would the other be?

Plug and point gaps?

I can see the drive shaft and these two tubes but how does the exhaust get into the exhaust tube? In the drive tube?



Thanks Guys

[Collector Inspector]

Yep!

Spark plug lead, replace as Seagull.

Flywheel off same as Seagull.

Shear pin is brass! (Not welding rod or SS)

One tube is water from pump the other (Shorter one) is water out. Half out tell tale and the rest into torque tube that is also the exhaust.

Points 0.015 and plug (Champion L85 - 90c) 0.025.

I will send you a users manual.

B

[Keith.P]

The Pilot is a nice compact motor, with a sound of its own, but compered to my FVP I found it to be undrpowered, but still a nice motor, not like the Anzani mower, horrible looking thing.

http://www.youtube.com/user/keithinuk?f ... I23xaoE_RY

[Rogermac]

Great little engines the Pilot and derivatives - I have a 'Seamaid' circa 1960 which is Pilot with a recoil start and a fibreglass cowl. The 360 degree pivot is a super feature.

Replace the shear pin with a brass shearpin - nothing else. Be very careful tapping the old one out that you do not damage/enlarge the prop boss - any bit of play and the pin will shear if you sneeze. Don't ask how I know this. Same is true of the Super Single. Don't ask how I know this either.

[chris]

in all my years of boating I have never seen an anzani on the back of a boat, I have heard nothing but praise for them, yet I have seen a real lot and still do see a lot of seagulls, still I think I could add an anzani to my collection

[Hugz]

Does anyone know the size of the shear pin? Not that it matters too much as I've found a hobby shop that has a range of brass rod and will take the prop in. I'm assuming it needs to be tight enough that it would require tapping in. Guess that means that I need a hammer on board.

Thanks for the manual Bruce. Beats me where you find all this stuff. Thruppence for a new shear pin

With only one transom clamp I'm guessing that these motors hop off the boat easily. Will definitely secure with lanyard.

Look how small the prop is

[RickUK]

Think I used 4mm brass rod, which is 5/32" in old money. The pin doesn't need to be a tight fit - just a reasonable sliding fit.
When putting the prop on, I think it is possible to overtighten the prop nut and shear the pin which bottoms out in the propshaft slot, so only nip up the nut, which of course is in turn secured by a split pin.
The props are small - later ones were a larger three-blade affair- presumably to deal with the increased power they found! Anzani props spin faster than Seaull ones relative to engine speed, as the gear ratio is near to 2:1 as opposed to the 3.5:1 of a Seagull.
Grease is recommended for the gears, but I use 140 oil fed in with an oil gun - Draper do - or did - one for about £10.00.
I use oil 'cos there is a little needle roller bearing behind the pinion, and with grease, I have only ever seen that the gears carve a space for themselves!
There is an 'O' ring seal in the bearing housing which allows oil to be retained.

Rick

[Collector Inspector]

"A little needle roller bearing behind the pinion"

I have never seen this in any of my parts or complete gearboxes. Have a few.

Maybe a "ring in"?

Grease does the trick under what I would call "Normal" but if oil or grease/oil mix stays in, and, water out, what the heh?

Apart from this, Rick is spot on with shear pin thoughts!

It is a small motor so has a small sheer pin.




If U use something other than what is required (Minimal little thing) your gearbox is Gunna explode!

Brass Gears!

They do not like a shock................They kinda lose a tooth instead!

Mind you, apart from that, very nicely made Brit Shit!

Regards

B

[RickUK]

Hi Bruce - the bearing should show up on your parts list - the pinion comes out as one piece on the end of the driveshaft with a brass bush, recessed inside of which is the needle roller. There is a rubber cover over the bush obviously intended to stop water going into the bearing from the top end.
All of this from memory - I haven't had one apart in years.

For Hugz- the HT lead at the magento end on Miller igntions is a screw connection into a nice little pillar - can't remember how the leads are attached on the Wipac ignitions.

Induction is neat on Pilots - the carb breathes through a ported crank,through piston ports, the pistons having a domed crown, so quite efficient.
If you get an odd 'zinging' noise whe the engine runs, it could be from the needle roller which forms the upper crank bearing, and can etch a pattern on the crank journal - I assume through standing. Rick

[Collector Inspector]

Hi Rick

Hmmmmm, I have early parts list regarding that bearing? Needles no, any of mine, no but that is OK as I am a "Downunder Type" and bottom ends may be different.......

YES!, I forgot about the HT lead attachment, just went back thru when I got "Mike The Pilot", basket case, back together a few years ago.

Here is a pick of said same HT post for anyone needing to see one!



Regards

B