Saving Old Seagulls

Today I finished work at 4 pm and I decided to dedicate a couple of hours at my ev histo Century that the controls on turning I've already done all without visible results, I decided to resort to 'last resort and that is all' Use the electric drill to turn the flywheel.
Having devised a way to couple the flywheel with a drill I proceeded to rotate the engine for a few minutes as you suggested and I saw some sparks of the pins are released, indicating that the coil produces a current ...... I then reassembled everything and as soon as I'll make a start-up test.
Immediately remove all doubt I would have liked but I had no gasoline available.
So I decided to devote the remaining time to the foot of the engine.
I unscrewed the plastic cap and I started to feel a very strong smell of rotten eggs come from the interior of the foot;
I poured the contents into a bucket e. .. Horror!
It came out smelling water and a few drops of a dense black liquid that resembles crude oil.
Here's the photo.



I proceeded to restore the proper oil level with the W140 and I closed the lid.
If the engine starts I would like to make it run a bit of time in the bin and then change again to be sure the oil of the foot, what do you think I do well?

Sounds like a good plan. But if you see that it's not pumping water while running in the bin, remove the propeller. The turbulence can prevent the pumping action, causing the engine to overheat.

Hey, Massimo, what's the latest news? Did you get your Seagull running? Do tell. Pictures!

'm getting stupid, I can not seem to understand anything of engines ... I have restored several vintage motorcycles, including Moto Guzzi Galletto 192, a DKW 175, but this engine is making a mockery of me!
Despite all the evidence and suggestions there is no way to get it started ... probably the coil is dead and I'm seriously considering the idea of ​​replacing all the lighting with this
http://cgi.ebay.it/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?Vie ... K:MEWAX:IT
do you think is a good choice??

I would think that the coil is dead, so replacing the ignition should be a good move.

You could replace the coil for about £50.00, so a Wipac replacement could be cheaper.

I have not used this seller on Ebay, but I believe he was once called "Uncle Sticky" on ebay.

Not sure why he changed his name, but is still using his blurred camera so buyer beware.

Why not speak to John at Saving old Seagulls who hosts this site, he should be able to help.

H-A

I have already written to John and he recommends replacing the coil, but I would prefer a ''transplant'' complete with an ignition Wipac

today I tried using a multimeter to measure the resistance between the secondary coil and ground, with the multimeter set to 20Kohm resistance is indicated 3.2K
is correct?
I also tried to run the engine with the drill, but in the end, however, has not wanted to know from starting.
I do not know what to think ......

and finally .... SPARK! Bluish strong spark.
How I got it you may ask yourself ... Just change the condenser. a small item I paid a € I fixed the electrical problem.
Following the your instructions, dear friends of the forum, you gave me, I managed to remove the flywheel and I also removed the box of needles and I removed the old capacitor and replace it with a modern specimen .22 mf polyester.
even after replacing the original threads that were ready on time, with new silicone cables, I put it back together by setting the game to 0.5 mm of the pins.
This evening I tried starting that occurred on the fifth pull, but it was not possible to keep the engine running for more than a few seconds because it seems that there's a problem with the fuel.
In fact, the engine continues to run only with the air off and then dies as if the fuel does not go anymore.
I disassemble the Villiers carburetor and I checked all the jets were clean and that the pin was in the right position with the head flush with the top edge of the cylinder of the gas valve
and after replacing the starter but everything I tried again as soon as I try to open air or to decrease the gas (which is fully open at start) the engine off relentlessly.
However I am very happy that the engine should be running because I had made ​​a point of honor

I forgot to say that after a few starts the gasoline has begun to trickle out of the carburetor out from the small hole in the top of the float glass
almost as if the carburetor l''refused'' the fuel

today's news
I understand that the float is frozen ... remains at the bottom so it does close the pin that blocks the entrance to benzian where the fuel continues to trickle out
but I can not understand what stops the float ..... in the afternoon do some tests
Usually if the engine is running only with the choke means that there is a leakage of air that the lean air-fuel mixture, and the fact that I do not know where this comes in more air because the carburetor and secured to the cylinder and screw clamp closure is tighten, then they should not come from air.
I just hope that is not a problem of infiltration and crankcase because it would be a big problem ...

As promised, taking advantage of the daylight hours of late afternoon, I disassembled the carburetor and again, as I thought, I found the float stuck on the central pivot of the carburetor, the test because I had it by removing the float chamber, the float has been "hung"
seemed to be wrong on its axis. however, I took the opportunity to give a further clean the interior. carburetor, I checked the float ran well on its axis and I closed everything.
After following the standard procedure for starting a cold engine, it was with my great satisfaction that the engine has started the first pull.
Now go unto all good rpm and has a beautiful and constantly reminds me so much that at least my beloved Moto Guzzi Galletto
BUT ....
not deliver water to drain away ... and then removing the foot off the drive shaft with the rotor of the pump.
As expected, I found the entrance to the cooling water pipe is completely blocked by sand and debris.
After clearing the site of the impeller and the surrounding area I remounted the foot of the propeller.
I restarted the engine but the water still can not get out of the drainage, so I infer that there is another obstruction in the pipe or water in the cavity of the cylinder.
I'll try tomorrow with the garde pump slipped into the drain hole for water to see if you can unlock the cooling circuit
Thanks to all

Good evening everyone, here I am with the updates today.
After disassemble the foot of the engine, I reversed the engine and I filled it with vinegar the cooling water pipe and I've also paid out of the hole of the cylinder.
I let it sit for about two hours and then I emptied the circuit and I refitted the foot, thinking that the deposits are to be lifted but to restart the engine, I found that the water flowed from the cylinder bore.
So I decided to do a more drastic treatment, and I removed the tesyta from the cylinder and this is what I saw


The steps of the water were blocked by a reddish pulp hard to the touch I had to patiently remove with a long thin flat screwdriver to get this done.


I hope that the debris will be crushed and I hope that next time you restart the engine, the water flow pushes them out of the cilynder

The following is a head with the copper gasket that seemed in good conditio


I will keep you informed

That is the best way to clean it out. But you need to do some more work to remove more of the rust.

Make sure you get to the bottom of the water passages.

H-A

Certainly, I realized that to do a thorough work must remove the cylinder from the crankcase at the moment but I would not do it, I'd be happy to have the engine running to do some sea trip next summer and then in autumn I will proceed with a accurate restoration of the parties comprising the chromium oxide, a stripping of the aluminum parts and the paint canister fuel and fly.
Of course, if the test was not satisfactory in the bin and not see the discharge of the cooling system does not work, unmount his head again and try to clean more thoroughly

Yes it is better to use them than polish them.

Put some grease on the bolts when you put the head back.

H-A

I dip the end of the head bolts in RTV silicon sealer it's stops the ends of the bolts even getting wet, but only if the head bolt holes are open into the water jacket.