black exhaust goo 102
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:26 pm
- Location: tonbridge,kent
black exhaust goo 102
hi all am a neewbie
have got a 102 with clutch . i have been out with it now on the river around four times now and it runs ok'ish . very smokey but it is 10.1 mix so to be expected . revs fine in the tank but when under load seems to strugle with the odd splutering fit and does not seem to want to rev very high when pushing the boat . i thought the water line was to high on the exhaust and have sorted this now but today stood it against a wall to store and on my return rather a large amount of goo had fallen from the exhaust pipe , black and very much like grease but smelling of fumes . is this just the residue that builds up ? also looks like it is blowing up onto the plug area as this is oily after use . i had taken the carb apart and cleaned it before taking it out and it was all ok .
any advice greatfully received.
dean.
have got a 102 with clutch . i have been out with it now on the river around four times now and it runs ok'ish . very smokey but it is 10.1 mix so to be expected . revs fine in the tank but when under load seems to strugle with the odd splutering fit and does not seem to want to rev very high when pushing the boat . i thought the water line was to high on the exhaust and have sorted this now but today stood it against a wall to store and on my return rather a large amount of goo had fallen from the exhaust pipe , black and very much like grease but smelling of fumes . is this just the residue that builds up ? also looks like it is blowing up onto the plug area as this is oily after use . i had taken the carb apart and cleaned it before taking it out and it was all ok .
any advice greatfully received.
dean.
- timberman2004
- Posts: 375
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 11:11 pm
- Location: Lerryn Cornwall
Ahhh you have discovered what we call in the trade, as 'Seagull droppings ' ...perfectly normal ..semi burnt 2 stroke oil ...but it does stop the corrosion
bit of a bugger when you want to pick it up though
bit of a bugger when you want to pick it up though
Neal...errrr... an ON, OP, 2xSD, F, 3xSJP, LLS, 2xFV, FVP, FPC, CPC WPCL, WSC, and a few eggs hatching, hopefully
Black oily residue around the plug? Coming from a bad joint washer on the plug? I dont know how susceptible Seagulls are to the effects a bit of leak there but some of the small modern far eastern things are very susceptible. A new plug, or just a new washer seems to cure many ills.
Suggest therefore you try a new plug. it may change running OKish to running OK.
Not sure about the advice on converting to 25:1. Only Villiers carbs are converted by changing the needle. Don't 102s have a 2 jet Amal carb which would require a jet change. Is it recommended to convert a 102 anyway or do they belong to the era when they are not candidates for conversion
Suggest therefore you try a new plug. it may change running OKish to running OK.
Not sure about the advice on converting to 25:1. Only Villiers carbs are converted by changing the needle. Don't 102s have a 2 jet Amal carb which would require a jet change. Is it recommended to convert a 102 anyway or do they belong to the era when they are not candidates for conversion
If all the goo and smoke really bother you, you could get a 1968 or later crankcase from a century or silver century. Use the much superior 102 cylinder on it along with the more attractive tank and the original exhaust tube and leg. Then convert the carb by getting the #40 high speed jet [for 25:1] The low speed jet remains unchanged.
The least expensive way is to buy a silver century with a good cylinder. Keep the parts you want. I personally prefer the century setup with the direct drive 3.5:1 gearbox, 102 cylinder, amal carb. as it seems much lighter and quieter to me than my 1971 silver century with clutch and 4:1 gearbox.
The least expensive way is to buy a silver century with a good cylinder. Keep the parts you want. I personally prefer the century setup with the direct drive 3.5:1 gearbox, 102 cylinder, amal carb. as it seems much lighter and quieter to me than my 1971 silver century with clutch and 4:1 gearbox.
- timberman2004
- Posts: 375
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 11:11 pm
- Location: Lerryn Cornwall
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4971
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Seagull 102's (Roundheads) were not designed to run at anything other than 10 : 1 fuel mix, even ones dated later, during the 25 : 1 era.
I can see no point in rewarding a motor that has give more than 30 years sterling sevice, with a restricted lube diet, that can only hasten it's demise!
It's a Seagull put up with the GOO & the smoke, or buy yourself an bland Okicoky 2000 with a life expectancy of less than 15 years & a spares availibility of possibly less.
More than half the Seagulls you read about on this site are over 35 years old, & with a little common sense & care, & might well last as long again.
I challenge any reader of this to come up with the name of another outboard motor that has survived in such numbers & is still in common use.
I can see no point in rewarding a motor that has give more than 30 years sterling sevice, with a restricted lube diet, that can only hasten it's demise!
It's a Seagull put up with the GOO & the smoke, or buy yourself an bland Okicoky 2000 with a life expectancy of less than 15 years & a spares availibility of possibly less.
More than half the Seagulls you read about on this site are over 35 years old, & with a little common sense & care, & might well last as long again.
I challenge any reader of this to come up with the name of another outboard motor that has survived in such numbers & is still in common use.
Charles uk perhaps you could enlighten me, concerning the difference between the [lower?] quality of the 102 cylinder as compared to the more recent century or silver century cylinder. How could it make any possible difference to run a 102 round cylinder on a newer crankcase, except possible faster ring wear [doubtful] on 25:1 as opposed to 10:1 mix? I retain a high level of disregard for the obviously short lived century cylinder as well as its seeming ability to self destruct in salt water use.
Make me a believer in its superiority.
Make me a believer in its superiority.
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- Posts: 5
- Joined: Mon Jul 13, 2009 9:26 pm
- Location: tonbridge,kent
ok boys calm down . lets not have a seagull poo fight it could get messy .
i think i will just have to keep on tinkering with it . i will start with a plug change as it has the 8 com still in it . what would you suggest i change to ? i have refreshed the gear box oil for ep 140 ( yes it is straight ep oil ) as this was empty. and washed the tank out replenished with a 10;1 mix . then i will give it another run out . i do though have a feeling it could be a carb issue as when i cleaned it out i found it to be very fragile and brittle so decided once back together i will not touch it again . the float was ok but the body was poor and crumbling the slide had heavy scoring on the base and also alot of grit in it . what do you suggest i replace it with in the future as i doubt it will last that long .
i think i will just have to keep on tinkering with it . i will start with a plug change as it has the 8 com still in it . what would you suggest i change to ? i have refreshed the gear box oil for ep 140 ( yes it is straight ep oil ) as this was empty. and washed the tank out replenished with a 10;1 mix . then i will give it another run out . i do though have a feeling it could be a carb issue as when i cleaned it out i found it to be very fragile and brittle so decided once back together i will not touch it again . the float was ok but the body was poor and crumbling the slide had heavy scoring on the base and also alot of grit in it . what do you suggest i replace it with in the future as i doubt it will last that long .