Not a seagull... but what... Twin
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
It is a Wico magneto with the nut similar to the anzani which after a few turns the flywheel is off........ Shame seagull doesn't have a similar system. Is there a cable to the carby from the backing plate on yours then? Have three nipples on gearbox so will have to work out what lubrication it takes... feels a bit dry.
Re: what twin
Thanks Phil. Certainly have similar design features.... more like the 102 blocks ie no separate heads. A lot restoration work has gone into those. I wonder if that amount of chrome is original. Looks more like a Harley!phil wrote:Hi, looks like its based on a 20s Johnson, see www.aomci.org
Ok, she is running. Needed a bit of aero start to get her to fire. When running she is indeed a lot quieter and smoother than a gull. Plugs oiling up so may need to run leaner that 10/1.
Has anyone had any experience in soldering the lead blob on an accelerator cable? Is it standard solder?
Has carby on front close to tiller and if having a backfire (easy done with adjustable timing) one cops a flame and smoke directly onto operator. It's all a bit of a hoot.
I guess I better not put a seagull decal on tank and confuse the greater public
Hugo.
Has anyone had any experience in soldering the lead blob on an accelerator cable? Is it standard solder?
Has carby on front close to tiller and if having a backfire (easy done with adjustable timing) one cops a flame and smoke directly onto operator. It's all a bit of a hoot.
I guess I better not put a seagull decal on tank and confuse the greater public
Hugo.
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rosbullterier
- Posts: 710
- Joined: Mon Dec 18, 2006 12:23 am
- Location: Cornwall UK
I would never spend shedloads on a genuine (brass) Seagull throttle cable unless planning a round the world sea trip and then they are too short to fold the tiller flush with the exhaust tube without straining the cable. You can buy quality stainless bicycle inner and outer cable in any length. Gear cable is narrower than brake cable. The cable outers have little reinforcing end caps.
I've made several throttle cables and even car 'special' handbrake cables with soldered lead nipples.
Just standard plumbing copper pipe solder and flux. As long as the relevant ends are clean and shiny, preferably freshly cut it will tin well.
Ordinary electric soldering iron, heat wire end, dip in flux. To make it even easier use multi core solder wire.
Probably start with wire poked through a piece of cable outer which is fixed horizontally in vice so you can turn the wire as you go.
Solder wire end. Build up the solder by heating/blobbing on bit by bit. You will find the solder sinks down one side - just turn it and dab the iron on the accumulation to let it flow back. You will get used to applying just the right amount of heat.
Its this last part which requires a little patience.
Line up massive off centre blob of soldered wire end with hole to fit, then file according, not filing through the wire strands.
I've made several throttle cables and even car 'special' handbrake cables with soldered lead nipples.
Just standard plumbing copper pipe solder and flux. As long as the relevant ends are clean and shiny, preferably freshly cut it will tin well.
Ordinary electric soldering iron, heat wire end, dip in flux. To make it even easier use multi core solder wire.
Probably start with wire poked through a piece of cable outer which is fixed horizontally in vice so you can turn the wire as you go.
Solder wire end. Build up the solder by heating/blobbing on bit by bit. You will find the solder sinks down one side - just turn it and dab the iron on the accumulation to let it flow back. You will get used to applying just the right amount of heat.
Its this last part which requires a little patience.
Line up massive off centre blob of soldered wire end with hole to fit, then file according, not filing through the wire strands.
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Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4196
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Hi All and a great 2009 to Ya!
Just got back from "outback" and it looks like Huggy got something "Special"
Well done Old Son!
Yep, Riptide was foremost in Australia local making very reliable outboards for ages. They were even better and wider spread all states with solid dealerships than Marlin (Another Story).
It looks great Mate!
The gearbox is lubed by water resistant grease and should be added to every week of constant use. The water pump impeller is aluminium like a Gull.
Originally there were no seals in the lower unit. Later there was a seal on the Prop shaft. Basically phosphor bronze bushes etc everywhere.
Point 0.020, plugs Champion L90C (Old L10) at 0.025 to 0.035 depending on the coils ability to throw a spark when running. Start wide and back off until smooth idle. (These things just Plonk along at about 500 revs actually and sound like...............like.............can not actually say as.............different?) You will know when sweet Huggy.
Oh Yeh! Very Smooth, you will pick that! (A lot like a British Britannia actually without the well engineered induction of those)
Mix is 10:1 30wt
Do not pull the motor apart, in that, do NOT take the heads off unless water is in the combustion chamber. Heads are weak bit ok? Best just to leave that alone until it do not run....... Carb IS Special! Soak it and soak it in carb cleaner (Acetone) do not remove jets as they WILL stick and stuff up their threads. Copious amounts of compressed air (Southern Hemisphere is prefered)
Parts replacement new or nice used are running out.....................
Yep, chrome and multi colours were the Riptide way all along! I have seen every combination, blues, greens, and reds, nearly bloody Purple on bits. Just scratch under the surface for the lowest colours and it will be correct for that engine number.
I have maybe 8 of these and others smaller and larger (Plus parts motors), I do not have one that is "Mint" as I have been concentrating on other Old Dears. (C-Powa and Riptide 12Hp is on the go at the moment)
Pic is of a nice and original one that "Farts" when roped but has no time yet to get stuck in. The other pic is for your interest.
See the cowled tank? It is two piece sand cast aluminium that has been thus, welded together. It was called "Sea scout". Totally wicked!
Totally COOL DUDE!
Glad to see such an Old Dear in tender (Callused) Hands?
The BEST looking leg out there?
Take Care in 2009
Cya on a River
Regards
C.I.
Just got back from "outback" and it looks like Huggy got something "Special"
Well done Old Son!
Yep, Riptide was foremost in Australia local making very reliable outboards for ages. They were even better and wider spread all states with solid dealerships than Marlin (Another Story).
It looks great Mate!
The gearbox is lubed by water resistant grease and should be added to every week of constant use. The water pump impeller is aluminium like a Gull.
Originally there were no seals in the lower unit. Later there was a seal on the Prop shaft. Basically phosphor bronze bushes etc everywhere.
Point 0.020, plugs Champion L90C (Old L10) at 0.025 to 0.035 depending on the coils ability to throw a spark when running. Start wide and back off until smooth idle. (These things just Plonk along at about 500 revs actually and sound like...............like.............can not actually say as.............different?) You will know when sweet Huggy.
Oh Yeh! Very Smooth, you will pick that! (A lot like a British Britannia actually without the well engineered induction of those)
Mix is 10:1 30wt
Do not pull the motor apart, in that, do NOT take the heads off unless water is in the combustion chamber. Heads are weak bit ok? Best just to leave that alone until it do not run....... Carb IS Special! Soak it and soak it in carb cleaner (Acetone) do not remove jets as they WILL stick and stuff up their threads. Copious amounts of compressed air (Southern Hemisphere is prefered)
Parts replacement new or nice used are running out.....................
Yep, chrome and multi colours were the Riptide way all along! I have seen every combination, blues, greens, and reds, nearly bloody Purple on bits. Just scratch under the surface for the lowest colours and it will be correct for that engine number.
I have maybe 8 of these and others smaller and larger (Plus parts motors), I do not have one that is "Mint" as I have been concentrating on other Old Dears. (C-Powa and Riptide 12Hp is on the go at the moment)
Pic is of a nice and original one that "Farts" when roped but has no time yet to get stuck in. The other pic is for your interest.
See the cowled tank? It is two piece sand cast aluminium that has been thus, welded together. It was called "Sea scout". Totally wicked!
Totally COOL DUDE!
Glad to see such an Old Dear in tender (Callused) Hands?
The BEST looking leg out there?
Take Care in 2009
Cya on a River
Regards
C.I.
Last edited by Collector Inspector on Wed Jan 07, 2009 2:37 pm, edited 1 time in total.
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
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Charles uk
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- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
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Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4196
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
-
Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4196
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Re: Not a seagull... but what... Twin
Right! Had difficulty finding suitable material so decided to take the professional way and have some head gaskets made up. Have a couple of spares for future as required, as well as the company has a pdf of plan so can punch them out later. The company made the head gaskets for victa... an aussie icon... before being sold to Briggs and Stratton. I think Briggs and Stratton is manufactured in one of those little islands off europe. Apart from making up a throttle cable, this little number is ready to go!
www.universalgaskets.com.au
Makes one realise how easy it is to rebuild a Seagull with parts readily available. Rebuilt heads and head gaskets have cost $300au for the Riptide.
www.universalgaskets.com.au
Makes one realise how easy it is to rebuild a Seagull with parts readily available. Rebuilt heads and head gaskets have cost $300au for the Riptide.
Re: Not a seagull... but what... Twin
Well,it's running. Conked out after about ten minutes... fuel just about empy so probably picked up some crud. Water a bit intermittent so needs a good flush.
All too hard... Brendan.... HELP.... I'm going to the pub!
Decided to clean carby and be a film actor/director
Struth I flashed it (whatever that means!)
Hugo
All too hard... Brendan.... HELP.... I'm going to the pub!
Decided to clean carby and be a film actor/director
Struth I flashed it (whatever that means!)
Hugo
Last edited by Hugz on Thu Aug 27, 2009 1:43 am, edited 2 times in total.
Re: Not a seagull... but what... Twin
I love the video, do know why i laughed all the way through.
Can you tell what it is yet
Can you tell what it is yet
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BrendanM
Re: Not a seagull... but what... Twin
Well done that man... followed my destructions... even after (or perhaps because of) a trip to the pub!All too hard... Brendan.... HELP.... I'm going to the pub!
Decided to clean carby and be a film actor/director
Struth I flashed it (whatever that means!)
Cheers.
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timberman2004
- Posts: 375
- Joined: Wed Apr 02, 2008 11:11 pm
- Location: Lerryn Cornwall
Re: Not a seagull... but what... Twin
Brilliant video Hugo
pissed myself laughing
a beardie wierdie Aussie in love with his engine and wheelie bin ..cobbling it together as he goes
well mate ...I'm afraid all that qualifies you as an honorary Pom
pissed myself laughing
a beardie wierdie Aussie in love with his engine and wheelie bin ..cobbling it together as he goes
well mate ...I'm afraid all that qualifies you as an honorary Pom
Neal...errrr... an ON, OP, 2xSD, F, 3xSJP, LLS, 2xFV, FVP, FPC, CPC WPCL, WSC, and a few eggs hatching, hopefully