Roys second 102 series build
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Roys second 102 series build
The first one was done from a box of parts that was gifted to me by a friend who sold his Yamaha outboard agency out, he had done work on British Seagulls as and when they came into his workshops.
As I have now managed to open the second 102 power block he gave me, it was very stiff and a difficult job to open, I can now think of making it into an outboard engine again?
A quick look of possible parts shows me what is on the bench, the gearbox and the connection tubes should be correct, I doubt the propeller and shafts are ?
As I have now managed to open the second 102 power block he gave me, it was very stiff and a difficult job to open, I can now think of making it into an outboard engine again?
A quick look of possible parts shows me what is on the bench, the gearbox and the connection tubes should be correct, I doubt the propeller and shafts are ?
Last edited by african imp on Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:45 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
The motor has been opened and found to be in really good condition, so much so its close to being new, why it was seized I have no idea, there is no evidence of water, it was the second piston ring I think?
That stainless steel rod and plywood scrap was the push rod that I used with a large G clmp to press the seized piston out of the bore and via the spark plug hole, the idea worked rather well.
That stainless steel rod and plywood scrap was the push rod that I used with a large G clmp to press the seized piston out of the bore and via the spark plug hole, the idea worked rather well.
Last edited by african imp on Thu Feb 21, 2019 8:36 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
[quote="african imp"]The motor has been opened and found to be in really good condition, so much so its close to being new, why it was seized I have no idea, there is no evidence of water, it was the second piston ring I think?
The piston once removed was soaked in an oxalic acid solution overnight, I have now freed off the second ring, the first ring is still firmly in its groove but given time I think it will free up.
The piston once removed was soaked in an oxalic acid solution overnight, I have now freed off the second ring, the first ring is still firmly in its groove but given time I think it will free up.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
My parts bin may not have the right sized gear box for a 102 motor?
Can I fit a smaller sized gearbox, I may have to use the smaller Viliers carb as well?
I wll have the motor and down tubes, there is no shaft to the clutch, my prop may be too small?
Lots of questions.
Can I fit a smaller sized gearbox, I may have to use the smaller Viliers carb as well?
I wll have the motor and down tubes, there is no shaft to the clutch, my prop may be too small?
Lots of questions.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
The motor I am using had a seized piston, it was some calcium type stuff under the top ring.
When the block was removed from the crank case I found some strips of red silicone material.
If they were from the crank case joint, a factory build, I have an idea that this motor has run very few hours as the silicone would have been blown out the exhaust a long while back otherwise ?
I will open the crankcase and reseal it just in case of a leak?
When the block was removed from the crank case I found some strips of red silicone material.
If they were from the crank case joint, a factory build, I have an idea that this motor has run very few hours as the silicone would have been blown out the exhaust a long while back otherwise ?
I will open the crankcase and reseal it just in case of a leak?
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
The only complete gear box that I have may be too small for a 102 series engine?
- fleetingcontact
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
A 102 coupled to a featherweight gearbox is probably the most common 'racing' Seagull out there. What you have there appears to be a 12:30 reduction sealed box as fitted to Silver Centurys and later Fortys. The only issues are making a good seal between the box and the pump housing and (naturally) lining up the driveshaft. Apart from that its all good. Suggestion: make your own gasket from aluminium and seal with goop.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
Thanks on the advice, I have now test assembled what may work, the parts seem to fit?fleetingcontact wrote:A 102 coupled to a featherweight gearbox is probably the most common 'racing' Seagull out there. What you have there appears to be a 12:30 reduction sealed box as fitted to Silver Centurys and later Fortys. The only issues are making a good seal between the box and the pump housing and (naturally) lining up the driveshaft. Apart from that its all good. Suggestion: make your own gasket from aluminium and seal with goop.
The flywheel is a spare.
I do not have the correct round fuel tank, Is there any info on fitting the later rectangular fuel tank to the 102 motor?
- fleetingcontact
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
Look at Seagull101's ED 102 in the for sale section (Jacob, can you post a higher resolution pic please). To my (limited) knowledge this was the only 102 which featured a square tank. The model was probably not that common and the chance of finding some mounts are, I presume, slim.
So you either find the more common earlier types or get busy in the workshop - can't be that hard...principal tools for the job - angle grinder, drill, blowtorch, BFH.
So you either find the more common earlier types or get busy in the workshop - can't be that hard...principal tools for the job - angle grinder, drill, blowtorch, BFH.
Re: Roys second 102 series build
Yes... rectangular strip of iron with 90 degree twist and three holes. You could use an oval tank using same principle!
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
Thank you.fleetingcontact wrote:Look at Seagull101's ED 102 in the for sale section (Jacob, can you post a higher resolution pic please). To my (limited) knowledge this was the only 102 which featured a square tank. The model was probably not that common and the chance of finding some mounts are, I presume, slim.
So you either find the more common earlier types or get busy in the workshop - can't be that hard...principal tools for the job - angle grinder, drill, blowtorch, BFH.
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- Joined: Thu Jan 03, 2019 5:44 am
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
Hugz wrote:Yes... rectangular strip of iron with 90 degree twist and three holes. You could use an oval tank using same principle!
2007-01-11 23.46.28.jpg
2007-01-11 23.46.17.jpg
Thanks, I see the twisted flat iorn and I have some in stock some place.

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Re: Roys second 102 series build
A digital meter on the Wipac coil that I did in January said I had 4.9 ohms, in practice would I see a decent spark though?
I have just run the power head up with an electric drill and a flexible joint, the spark from the NGK plug is fine
If you look closely you can just see the spark.
I am now thinking that if I had a carburetor and petrol tank on this assembly the old seized motor would run again once more?
I have just run the power head up with an electric drill and a flexible joint, the spark from the NGK plug is fine

If you look closely you can just see the spark.
I am now thinking that if I had a carburetor and petrol tank on this assembly the old seized motor would run again once more?
Last edited by african imp on Sat Feb 23, 2019 10:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
I am pirating items from other motors I have to enable me to test this 102 motor out, one item is the oval HT cap retaining plate.
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Re: Roys second 102 series build
As a one time boat builder I have used epoxy glues and pastes for many years, the epoxy is in many ways a welding tool, wood to wood, wood to metal and metal to metal as well.
The only Seagull control arm I had was bent, I straightend it out and it then broke, its now bonded with an epoxy paste, when that has cured I will wrap the repair with glass cloth and a thin epoxy mix.
The 102 engine flywheel had some dings in it, I have given it a basic clean up and filled the dings with epoxy paste.
The items are out in the Sun which will speed the cure time up by some hours.
The only Seagull control arm I had was bent, I straightend it out and it then broke, its now bonded with an epoxy paste, when that has cured I will wrap the repair with glass cloth and a thin epoxy mix.
The 102 engine flywheel had some dings in it, I have given it a basic clean up and filled the dings with epoxy paste.
The items are out in the Sun which will speed the cure time up by some hours.