Single Handed Flywheel Removal

[Jim bow]

The manuals, and the experts here, all warn against using any type of wheel puller to remove the flywheel.
They suggest finding a second pair of hands to hold the motor by clasping the flywheel between them.
I've come up with another method for those of us who have no willing friends.

I purchased a strap clamp:


I removed about 5 feet of the nylon strap, and set it aside.
I attached the remainder of the clamp around the flywheel:


Then I placed the other piece of strap under the installed loop:


I tightened the strapping clamp as tight as possible, and tied the other strap to it, double knotting the tie.

I installed a C clamp on the floor joist in my basement workshop, and hung a second C clamp from it, to make a hook:


Then, I hung the Seagull by the strap from the overhead hook:


I remembered to park the piston in the proper position prior to installing the straps. Now I held the motor by the downtube, and gave it a sharp rap on the pulley nut. Two blows and it was free.

[THCL500J8]

Thanks for a very handy tip. I have to get the wife to help, always fought with danger.
Or extra gardening

[Niander101]

I still don't understand why it matters about the piston position

[Hugz]

I still don't understand why it matters about the piston position

I agree, there is clearance in whatever position the crankshaft is that can cause distortion.

[phil]

If it's not on extremely tight, back off flywheel nut a few turns, grab just above L/U, and using the motor's weight, gently drop on a hard even surface like concrete or steel. Works quite well. If it does not come off easily go to another method.
Also may not be advisable if you are a person who cannot hit things squarely.

[Jim bow]

I still don't understand why it matters about the piston position

I don't either, but it is pointed out so often, by far smarter people than me, that I mindlessly obey.

[geofflena]

I do similar - but my holder is a split wooden form - bolted together around the flywheel.
Rather than suspended it sits on top two 2x2 just higher than the motor.



This works well first time - as you can really let loose with the hammer. Its made for longshaft but one can pack out under the prop to leave a small drop gap - maybe 1" or so.

Geoff

[Stelios_Rjk]

Nice ideas guys, well done!!

[Niander101]

They got brains

[headdownarseup]

The idea of making sure the piston is at BDC (furthest away from the spark plug) is that you minimise the risk of bending or distorting the crankshaft out of shape whilst hitting downwards on the flywheel nut. (all in the manual, get one if you dont already have one)

However, all this is useless if your engine is seized solid! (just get a bigger hammer )

Some taper fit joints can be very difficult to budge, as is the case with seagull flywheels that havn't been removed in ages.
Rust/corrosion only adds to the problems.

jon

[Collector Inspector]

Yep sometimes they do NOT come off at all.

I have an SD with one of them wee buggers. Got the correct puller from SOS which worked for the other two not a problem.

I now have a stripped puller thread (Not the Flywheel thread so I should claim a warranty aye) after enough effort with heat (To melt the Sun and any useable ignition within as well as enough Lubricant to see any stuck sky hook undone) it still defies me.

It will not budge a mm. No way Jose.

Been at this for maybe 6 years now? Now what do I say about patience....................Mute.

Hugo knows the one as I send pics of the piston emerging from a naturally degrading block from time to time.............it is an Aussie thing that we do.

Not to mention the T.S.D. Pup example which is a right pain in the proverbial................


B

[Hugz]

I had the opposite on an SD where I took off the nut and in moving the motor with the flywheel sloping down it fell off!

[headdownarseup]

Anybody tried a small ball bearing in between the top of the crankshaft and the underside of the flywheel nut???
This method applies more direct force to the crankshaft instead of being dissipated through the thread (which if you're not careful will get stripped and cause even more headaches)

heat, soak repeat,heat,soak repeat. once in a while give it a GOOD HEFTY WACK from a big hammer. (as long as you can hit the nut square on and are accurate with your hammer blows, sooner or later it'll let go)

I've only once needed any assistance to remove a flywheel. I'd guess i was just lucky!

jon

[Gannet]

Yes, a ball bearing between the nut and the crankshaft is the technique that I adopt. The ball fits neatly in the machined centre and ensures that the shock load is applied directly onto the end of the crankshaft.

With the older small 40 series with the Villiers ignition it is possible to hold the flywheel through the big apertures with one hand and do the bashing with a hammer onto the (slave) nut with the other hand.
I knew that there must be an advantage somewhere with these small old ones!

Jeremy

[Adrian Dale]

Now there is a good tip , use a "slave" nut to spare flattening the original. Most of the nuts that I have have been flattened sometime in their life.

AJ