Did the Marston Seagulls have adjustable timing?
I can see a small leaver poking our under the flywheel in some pictures. So im guessing thats what it did.
So how much of a difference to the engines running, dose this make?
I'm guessing a standard seagull 102, and square engines must be fixed somewhere, around 25 degrees BTDS.
As i have a lls with no workable ignition components im just wondering what i can use. Stuffed coil, dead cap, rusted points, etc.
Marston Seagulls Question "Ignition timing"
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Marston Seagulls Question "Ignition timing"
TC - 1960 LLS - 1961 LLS - 1966 THCL - 1968 EFNRL - 1986
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Re: Marston Seagulls Question "Ignition timing"
ANDREW
Your LLS i'm guessing has a "dead " ignition. (probably a villiers) If you've got another seagull you can lay your hands on , use that ignition on your LLS.
They all fit each other (except the very early "coolie hat" villiers from the ww2 motors)
Go through all the basics again on your ignition. You might get lucky with it. Try spinning the flywheel at high speed with a power drill if you can. If there is something of an "open circuit" within the coil, it might start to "track" from inside which may give you enough of a spark to work with, if not it's time to replace the coil!
These villiers are becoming something of a pain for me. i've got quite a few of them with dead coils and duff condensers. (i'm saving that job for over this winter.....oh joy)
JON
Your LLS i'm guessing has a "dead " ignition. (probably a villiers) If you've got another seagull you can lay your hands on , use that ignition on your LLS.
They all fit each other (except the very early "coolie hat" villiers from the ww2 motors)
Go through all the basics again on your ignition. You might get lucky with it. Try spinning the flywheel at high speed with a power drill if you can. If there is something of an "open circuit" within the coil, it might start to "track" from inside which may give you enough of a spark to work with, if not it's time to replace the coil!
These villiers are becoming something of a pain for me. i've got quite a few of them with dead coils and duff condensers. (i'm saving that job for over this winter.....oh joy)
JON
- Charles uk
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Re: Marston Seagulls Question "Ignition timing"
There is NO electrical reason why the "electric drill" treatment would do anything at all for a problem ignition.
On the other hand spinning without a constant oil feed, could cause cylinder/bearing wear problems.
In the past on 2 occasions the flywheel nut has been over tightened to the point, that the thread breaks off the crankshaft, you could also run the risk of forcing the flywheel taper harder onto the crankshaft, not so clever when your next job is going to be removing the flywheel!
On the other hand spinning without a constant oil feed, could cause cylinder/bearing wear problems.
In the past on 2 occasions the flywheel nut has been over tightened to the point, that the thread breaks off the crankshaft, you could also run the risk of forcing the flywheel taper harder onto the crankshaft, not so clever when your next job is going to be removing the flywheel!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: Marston Seagulls Question "Ignition timing"
Ok time to let the cat out of the bag. Number one son fly RC models with 10 - 20 cc petrol motors. these have there own Electronic CDI ignition system.
The LLS has a open circuit coil rusted points and sus cap. Motor spent 10 years outside with a broken plastic cover. So when it rained, it filled with water.
So the electrics are a complete loss.
What im thinking is to strip it all out and and bolt the cdi unit to the base plate, and thread the plug lead out the hole, and temporally power the unit with a small battery.
Units have auto advance, and work to about 12k rpm. But need to know were to put the trigger for the unit.
The LLS has a open circuit coil rusted points and sus cap. Motor spent 10 years outside with a broken plastic cover. So when it rained, it filled with water.
So the electrics are a complete loss.
What im thinking is to strip it all out and and bolt the cdi unit to the base plate, and thread the plug lead out the hole, and temporally power the unit with a small battery.
Units have auto advance, and work to about 12k rpm. But need to know were to put the trigger for the unit.
TC - 1960 LLS - 1961 LLS - 1966 THCL - 1968 EFNRL - 1986