WS Century lower drivetube lug

[Geoff Uphill]

Just picked up a WS Silver century, no clutch, 72 model - running fine in tank, etc.
I see the lug that should be clamping the base of the drive tube into the top of the gearcase casting is missing ? - and has a jubilee clip around it. Obviously someone has ground away the damaged lugs in order to fit this.
Is this going to be adequate - or would it be better to make up a better pinch bolt of some kind.
It was a well cheap engine, at £40 - and apart from that is in remarkably good nick. Don't want it parting company !

[charlesp]

Don't quite follow which bit is damaged, but whatever it is would be best replaced. Ring John - number at the top of the page - I'm sure he will be able to sort you out

[Geoff Uphill]

Thanks Charlesp - all the pics I see, there is a pinch bolt on the top of the gear case - between two allen sockets screws - clamping the chrome tube base to the lower casting. The lugs would seem to have been ground off, to facilitate fixng a jubilee clip around the collar.

[GregBda]

If these lugs are gone you'll have to replace the whole piece. You don't want that slipping off in deep water.

[jeff]

hi,geoff,can i suggest as a quikfix before you replace the pump housing, a car type exhaust clamp of the correct diameter which is alot stronger. cheers Jeff.

[Geoff Uphill]

That's the lug ( pic - cheers greg )
I did think along the lines of the exhaust clamp- or a custom made bolted clamp.
Does this tube just slide off if that clamp is loose ( and the bar is not seized in there of course ) with the driveshaft a sliding spline fit to the gearcase ?
Would top cover be a likely used spare part - or like the proverbial hens dentures.

If I take a look I will get a better idea of its potential to drop off !
Shall not be using it until its sorted - either with a replacement or a 'reliable bodge' of some sort.
I'm thinking it could be pinned - and clamped ?

Still - its why I have a real cheap engine. Had a better look tonight and its very tidy in every other respect.

[Michael]

If it were me, I would replace the housing. Only thing holding it on should be the pinch bolt and maybe some corrosion. With pinch bolt slackened, housing should just slide off with a little help. Replacement housing should not be too hard to come by.

[40TPI]

....With pinch bolt slackened, housing should just slide off with a little help. .....

I find that only happens like that in a Haines manual...... Start warming up the propane torch and search out the soft faced heavy percussive instrument. Apparently they were hammered in at the factory (when they didn't bother to use the 3 ton press). Changing out also means the joy of splitting the water pump housing from the gearbox....

A complete pump housing and gearbox might be a less "b*****some" solution. With so many motors supposedly having rusted out blocks on the coast this maybe an easier route.....

Peter

[charlesp]

A water pump housing won't cost you the earth, and as your old one is scrap you don't have to be too gentle with it for dismantling. The new one won't be any bother to reassemble.

Give John a ring - 01621 778859 - and he'll sort you out. He'll need an engine number as there was more than one type.

I suggest John because he has plentiful stocks, is very helpful, and the bits will be with you in no time - all that as well as because this is his site!

Let us know how you get on.

[Geoff Uphill]

All sorted - Phoned John, he has plenty at a good price.

All is stripped - under two hours. My set screws were allen sockets, not the original cheese head type.
The entire drive shaft came away with the lower unit - and I removed the chrome leg from the crankcase before knocking off the upper case - came quite easily with the help of a bit of heating. Rotor seems fine and the shaft is in pretty good nick too.

Thanks to all replies - pics of engine are on my site on 'Lena' - and some rebuild pics soon - http://www.geoff.rich.btinternet.co.uk/ ... pdate.html