And back to square one ... today no spark anymore after transporting it in the trunk of our car ...
So obviously CDI is shot...
ESC Silver Century Ignition (WIPAC MkIII) quirks
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Charles uk
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Re: ESC Silver Century Ignition (WIPAC MkIII) quirks
There is a tinned copper earth wire that runs across one end of the large part of the white CDI, ensure that there are no dry joints on this earth, I had a very similar problem to yours with an almost invisible dry joint here.
It's very rare for a CDI to have an intermittant fault they either work or don't, John can get it fixed for you on an exchange basis.
The white CDI HT spark will jump a 1/4 inch gap, it's not likely you have a gap bigger than that.
You can change the HT lead on this CDI but not on the brown/black one.
4mm copper cored HT lead, no resistance plug cap.
DO NOT TRY TO SPIN THE FLYWHEEL WITHOUT AN EARTHED SPARK PLUG. as this stands a good chance of killing the CDI!
It's very rare for a CDI to have an intermittant fault they either work or don't, John can get it fixed for you on an exchange basis.
The white CDI HT spark will jump a 1/4 inch gap, it's not likely you have a gap bigger than that.
You can change the HT lead on this CDI but not on the brown/black one.
4mm copper cored HT lead, no resistance plug cap.
DO NOT TRY TO SPIN THE FLYWHEEL WITHOUT AN EARTHED SPARK PLUG. as this stands a good chance of killing the CDI!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: ESC Silver Century Ignition (WIPAC MkIII) quirks
I'll check that out later today, I also saw while I had it out that there are at least 4 soldered joints which may or may not have a broken connection.
I agree that this intermittent fault screams to be some sort of a loose connection so I will check all of the accessible connections tonite and see how that goes.
I am currently trying to source a used CDI (i actually just got a whole motor off of ebay for a good price, an EF model ... lets see if that contains an Mk III or an Mk IV) and will then decide what to do with the broken CDI ... (if it's not just a loose connection on the outside)
I fixed epoxy potted broken CDIs before but this one seems so tiny that I don't even know where to cut it open, so if nothing else helps. It might go to John for repair.
Marius
P.S.
I changed the HT-lead it's unfortunately not that. I also changed the plug cap also no luck with that. It's gotta be a bad soldering joint or some other connection problem. Today when I was testing it I could see it sparking once only to then see it go dead again. I had that before with motorcycles and a good tap on the CDI box usually fixes that for a little while ... but thats a bit too unaccessible on the seagull to just tap.
I agree that this intermittent fault screams to be some sort of a loose connection so I will check all of the accessible connections tonite and see how that goes.
I am currently trying to source a used CDI (i actually just got a whole motor off of ebay for a good price, an EF model ... lets see if that contains an Mk III or an Mk IV) and will then decide what to do with the broken CDI ... (if it's not just a loose connection on the outside)
I fixed epoxy potted broken CDIs before but this one seems so tiny that I don't even know where to cut it open, so if nothing else helps. It might go to John for repair.
Marius
P.S.
I changed the HT-lead it's unfortunately not that. I also changed the plug cap also no luck with that. It's gotta be a bad soldering joint or some other connection problem. Today when I was testing it I could see it sparking once only to then see it go dead again. I had that before with motorcycles and a good tap on the CDI box usually fixes that for a little while ... but thats a bit too unaccessible on the seagull to just tap.