feather 40.

[Vic]

There are are no 50:1 needles for this motor.

So 10:1 or 25:1, IIRC the 25:1 needle is either blank or has a 2.5 on it, probably need a magnifying glass to see it. The 10:1 has a 3 on it, I think, someone please correct me if I'm wrong.

The preliminary setting is with the needle adjuster screw top flush with the top of the throttle body piston it is in. Adjust from there. With 10:1 needle max. 3 turns in from flush according to Seagull literature, should give good results with 15:1 to 16:1 mix. Much less adjustment with 25:1 seems wise,perhaps one turn in max.

This info for Villiers carb. Bing carb is already set at 25:1

My Forty feather weight is converted to 25:1. The carb needle is screwed in the max permitted 3 turns ( and a tad more maybe) to stop it 4 stroking.

[phil]

Thanks Vic, my memory is not what it should be!

[Collector Inspector]

Mark

It is something that you have not done from when you adopted the Old Thing.

Ask yourself.............."What is original on this pile of........."

Seek an answer with that.

Write it down on paper and proceed.

Boy Howdy...............are you going to kick yourself later.

Happy Gulling

B

[twitcher]

going to redo the gaskets , will give it another go....watch this space, mark..thanks all.

[Stelios_Rjk]

Hi Mark,

As many details as you can give is the way to go. I still haven't realized whether you have an F or an SJM in your possession or whether you removed the ignition or not.

[twitcher]

its a f and no i did not touch the ignition...thanks..

[twitcher]

well....had a few hours to spare, so decided to strip it back to the beginning...i cut all new copper gaskets, for the front and back of head,
reinserted the piston, fired it up...after one pull, alls working hunky dory....must have been sucking in air from back gasket,
tried it out in bin, pumping lots of water, head stays quite cool to touch...
problem is now, i need to change the gears in the bottom, they were chewed up after a few minutes
running (they were not looking good to start with)
so looking to buy a better bottom on flee bay...
thanks for all your help, woudn't have figured it out without you...mark

[twitcher]

any idea how the new rings should be run in?

[Stelios_Rjk]

Maybe some more oil than usual. Run under load (at the back of a boat) and in varying rpm.

How did you manage to cut copper gaskets? I mean to form the ring around the bore. In addition the head gasket is 0.9mm and the base gasket 0.25mm thick. Anything different will have some consequences.

[Collector Inspector]

Twitch

I would concentrate in just doing FleeBay for the gearbox internals if the cases are good that you have. May save some time as complete lower ends for an F will be both expensive and few and far between.

Internals are common I believe............later models ratios and shaft sizes? . Maybe suss John SOS or post a wanted.

Happy hunting aye!

Could you please post some detail pics of the casing that you have on it for me/us?

Prop is?

Cheers

B

[twitcher]

Maybe some more oil than usual. Run under load (at the back of a boat) and in varying rpm.

How did you manage to cut copper gaskets? I mean to form the ring around the bore. In addition the head gasket is 0.9mm and the base gasket 0.25mm thick. Anything different will have some consequences.

I do a lot of carving & model making , so have plenty copper shim material...I made templates first, then rough cut them out, sanded them with a high speed tool...mark

[Stelios_Rjk]

That's interesting! I would like to see the way you work. I cut almost all gaskets for Seagulls but never one made of copper. The problem for me is the ring around the bore.
Post some pictures if you like!