I have a SD102 serial number WC 385 R6. The engine was fine when I last ran it in September last year and put it away with the intention of cleaning up and repainting (fuel was drained etc) I decided that it was not fair to keep in the shed unused so bought a 10ft boat to put it on.
Engine brought out of shed, new gearbox oil, fresh fuel, new sparkplug, but the engine will not fire up, it is fueling fine, plug is wet, but there is no spark, I held plug in my hand and pulled starter and got a mild tingle but nothing else, I also tried other plug which was new last year but still no joy. Being a novice I wondered what to check next, can ht lead be checked to see if working? I looked at faq's re running on a drill for 5 minutes but was not sure if my engine was suitable for that?
Any advice would be most appreciated as was planning to get boat in the water near Bournemouth pier on tuesday for a spot of fishing
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Last edited by robhc1000 on Sat Jul 20, 2013 5:28 pm, edited 2 times in total.
cleaning your points might help. I am not a fan of running with a drill. If you do do it you must pop some oil down the plug hole.
I would replace ht lead anyway.
LLS c 1961 on a crescent 42 boat c 1980 + wspcl c 1976 + 102 SD8561 c 1944 + 102 ACR 1948
Do you have a multimeter? If you could find one measure the resistance between the metal part inside the spark plug cap and any metal part (crankcase etc).
Or you could spin the flywheel with the threads of the spark plug in contact with the engine. Mount the spark plug on the carb or wherever you can. Do you get a spark on the plug?
Stelios_Rjk wrote:
Or you could spin the flywheel with the threads of the spark plug in contact with the engine. Mount the spark plug on the carb or wherever you can. Do you get a spark on the plug?
Undo the flywheel nut, remove the cover. Turn the flywheel to see when the points are open and when closed. When open use a thin piece of cardboard and acetone, alcohol or petrol to clean them.
Stelios_Rjk wrote:Undo the flywheel nut, remove the cover. Turn the flywheel to see when the points are open and when closed. When open use a thin piece of cardboard and acetone, alcohol or petrol to clean them.
Is there a special way to remove the flywheel nut, mine seems to be stuck??
Hmm.. if another guy could hold the flywheel and you hit the wrench with a hammer?
Or you could remove the powerhead from the rest and hold the bottom end of the crankshaft on a vice. Then you could apply more torque but I don't know if there is a chance to damage the crankshaft if you apply too much torque.
Clamp the motor to a stand or a piece of 4x2 held in a bench vise. You don't need anyone to hold the flywheel while you hit the adjustable wrench ( spanner) with a hammer to loosen the flywheel nut. Hold the wrench in place on the nut with your thumb and grasping the flywheel with fingers of the same hand, hit the wrench with the hammer using your other hand. The flywheel doesn't move much. To replace, once the nut is snugged down retighten it with the hammer in similar manner. A couple or three hits of medium force to a 10" long adjustable wrench (spanner) with a 16 oz. hammer should do the job.
Sometimes the points need a little more cleaning than the alcohol swab. I like to use a 1/8" wide strip of aluminum oxide or carbide sandpaper of 320 grit folded over a thin strip of steel and used as a points file. 4-6 good strokes with the points closed on the sandpaper, then clean with a piece of clean card stock or similar, drawing it through the closed points, until it comes out clean and you should be good to go.
Also possible that the ignition lead is not conducting properly, it should read 0 ohms on a multimeter's lowest scale.
If all that fails, time to test the coil, primary winding 0.5 oms to 1 ohm, secondary around 3000-5000 ohms.
Looks as though it has a Mk2 ignition by the plastic rope pull.
phil wrote:Sometimes the points need a little more cleaning than the alcohol swab. I like to use a 1/8" wide strip of aluminum oxide or carbide sandpaper of 320 grit folded over a thin strip of steel and used as a points file. 4-6 good strokes with the points closed on the sandpaper, then clean with a piece of clean card stock or similar, drawing it through the closed points, until it comes out clean and you should be good to go.
Also possible that the ignition lead is not conducting properly, it should read 0 ohms on a multimeter's lowest scale.
If all that fails, time to test the coil, primary winding 0.5 oms to 1 ohm, secondary around 3000-5000 ohms.
Looks as though it has a Mk2 ignition by the plastic rope pull.
Many thanks, will try cleaning points again, if that fails does anyone know where near bournemouth i can get new ht lead or someone who looks at seagulls?
