40 plus starting/running problem

[westmorland]

I purchased a 1973 forty plus mark 2 FP218hh3 last year and am having trouble starting/running it. As it had not been used in many years I initially pulled the flywheel and cyllinder head and verrified that there was no internal corrosion or blockage. After cleaning and setting the points and thoroughly cleaning the tank and carb, the engine fired right up and ran smoothly on the test stand throwing out a pencil stream of water.

With sea trials came trouble as I manged to submerge the engine (not running) in salt water. I immediately recovered it and submerged it in fresh water and then thoroughly cleaned, dried and lubricated it. When I attempted to start it with fresh fuel it started and appeared to run normally. Now, six months later, when I attempt to start the engine it will often not start although it does fire once or twice on each attempt. I have completely dissassembled ther carb and fuel systemm components and cleaned everything and tonight I managed to start it after a dozen pulls and run it for 15 seconds. Subsequent attempt to start it resulted only in several engine "pops" per rope pull but no start.

The tank and carb are clean, the ignition is set to spec etc. I have the two sparkplugs that came with the engine (Champion D-21 and Champion 8 com) - could these be the source of my problem ? What else shouldI try ? The plug sparks weakly when I test it against the engine block. I would appreciate any advice/suggestions. I am located in Virgonia, USA so I do not have a good source of Seagull parts close at hand.

Thanks,

Mike

[skyetoyman]

New fuel , new spark plug , new plug lead might help. John SOS has all the right parts.

[1650bullet]

Try a new plug first. Either a Champion D-16 Or NGK A-6 or AB-6.Make sure the spark-plug cap fits tight on the end of the plug. You can buy a NGK or any universal type of plug cap that has a self tapper thread to screw onto the end of the plug lead.(Lawn Mower Shops) If you have an air compressor blow out the main jet and all other bits with the air blower. Tip out the contents of your fuel tank and see if there any particles in the fuel. Fresh fuel can loosen up any hardend crudd thats left in there. Caustic soda works well to clean out the tank. But wear gloves because it gets hot to handle and tip it down one of your drains that may need a cleanout. Caustic soda does wonders to clean out the kitchen sink and stuff.

[Vic]

I purchased a 1973 forty plus mark 2 FP218hh3 last year and am having trouble starting/running it. As it had not been used in many years I initially pulled the flywheel and cyllinder head and verrified that there was no internal corrosion or blockage. After cleaning and setting the points and thoroughly cleaning the tank and carb, the engine fired right up and ran smoothly on the test stand throwing out a pencil stream of water.

With sea trials came trouble as I manged to submerge the engine (not running) in salt water. I immediately recovered it and submerged it in fresh water and then thoroughly cleaned, dried and lubricated it. When I attempted to start it with fresh fuel it started and appeared to run normally. Now, six months later, when I attempt to start the engine it will often not start although it does fire once or twice on each attempt. I have completely dissassembled ther carb and fuel systemm components and cleaned everything and tonight I managed to start it after a dozen pulls and run it for 15 seconds. Subsequent attempt to start it resulted only in several engine "pops" per rope pull but no start.

The tank and carb are clean, the ignition is set to spec etc. I have the two sparkplugs that came with the engine (Champion D-21 and Champion 8 com) - could these be the source of my problem ? What else shouldI try ? The plug sparks weakly when I test it against the engine block. I would appreciate any advice/suggestions. I am located in Virgonia, USA so I do not have a good source of Seagull parts close at hand.

Thanks,



Mike

If you only have a weak spark that is going to be your problem and one which new fuel, carb cleans tank cleans etc, etc will not solve.

Eliminate the plugs from the equation by checking what sort of spark you can get directly from the end of the HT lead..
If that is weak then you have to take a closer look at the magneto.
You say you have cleaned the points. Properly refaced, cleaned and correctly adjusted them? The faces should be scrupulously clean>

Check all the electrical connections; between the points and the coil assembly and the grounding to the base plate.

If you cannot get a good spark then possibly the coil unit is defective.

[westmorland]

Thanks for the suggestions/advice. I purchased a new sparkplug and got a good spark when pulling the cord with the plug outside the block and grounded. Before trying to start the motor again I am going to go through the fuel system once more then I will mix some new fuel and see what happens. If everything works then I have to make a decision as to what to do with my Seagull. I bought it to use on an aluminum canoe and fabricated a mount for it. Unfortunately, trying to styart the engine while solo in the canoe (engine mounted alongside double ended canoe) is really tersting the laws of stability--- as I found out when I tried it the last time. I guess a square ended canoe would work fine.

[Vic]

If you have a good spark the you are half way home.

If you have already cleaned the carb make sure that when you reassembled it that the centerpiece is fitted so that the little retaining screw is located in the slot in the shoulder not in the round hole.

[mrford]

Hi sorry to hear you are having problems . I am new to seagulls but I worked 4 years at a lawn mower shop we took a standard 14 M M spark plug and cut the L shaped tang off and used this for a tester . A good spin with the rope spark plug out test plug grounded should spark to the side where the tang was . If it dose it will start and run . What happens is under compression it takes more voltage to jump the gap so in air this works well . You could prove bad spark by closing the plug gap to 10 thousandths instead of 15 they call for keep in mind this is a stop gap and should not be counted on if your coil or condenser is failing this will only prove it out Hope this helps good luck VIC