Forty Plus running problem

[alpinechili]

Hi all
I just purchased a Forty Plus (FP1990E9) a few weeks ago, gave it a good clean up and managed to get it running fine in my wheelie bin. When I took it out today on the canal it started but after only a few minutes it lost power and died, took about 5 minutes before it would start again but it kept dying again after a minute or so and would restart againafter another 5 minutes. Thought it might be a fuel problem, but not sure. Also there is not a very good flow of coolant water, more of a trickle than a stream. Is it possible the head is overheating causing it to shut down or maybe something else? Any help would be gratefully appreciated as I would love to get this motor running well.

[phil]

When you say "clean up" are you referring to a cosmetic clean up?

If so, be aware that what is needed on a newly acquired used motor is to completely clean the fuel system from one end to the other. Start with the fuel tank get it clean inside, no loose particles, clean the fuel tap screen, clean the fuel line, clean the filter screen in the carb, clean the float bowl in the carb, blow out the rest of the carb with compressed air. Reassemble use fresh clean fuel. That should fix your stalling problem.

Try back flushing the cooling system, if it still doesn't circulate with a pencil sized stream of water the head will likely need to come off and the passages in the cylinder block be thoroughly cleaned. That should cure your circulation problem.

[alpinechili]

Thanks for your help Phil. I have pretty much cleaned out the entire fuel system but can't remember if I cleaned the filter on the carb, I think I'll remove the carb again and give it a complete clean.
Regarding the coolant flow, I have already back flushed it, so bits of corrosion did come out. Will filling the head channels with some sort of cleaning fluid/acid and leaving overnight work, if so what fluid would you recommend as I realy don't like the sound of removing those head bolts that tend to shear off?
Thanks
Max

[charlesp]

The only way to clear the stuff clogging it up is to take the head off and do the job mechanically. If you use heat on the block corners adjacent to the bolt you most likely won't shear them.

The chemicals are a waste of time, and anyway you won't be able to see the problem.

[Horsley-Anarak]

I agree with Charles take the head off.

I give the heads of the bolts a few hard taps with a large punch before I try and remove them (every little helps).

I find the 40s are less prone to bolt(stud) shearing than the Centurys, it is worth removing the head as you can check water passages, head gasket, and bore condition. If you are going this far it may be worth dropping the leg, and removing the cylinder from the crank case.

Then you will be able to see if the rings are free.

Also you can inspect the water delivery pipe.

H-A

[alpinechili]

Stripped down the entire fuel system today and found verdigris everywhere, the tank was full of it. The particles were of various sizes blocking everything. Cleaned all parts and washed out the tank several times with some white spirits.
Also removed the drive head and flushed the head with water, out shot some rust sludge. Flushed the water pipe and intake channel, no problems there.
Reassembled everything and hey presto a nice pencil stream of water and it ran perfectly for 10 mins.
Thanks for your help on this. Think I'll be keeping an eye on the copper corrosion for a while until that tank is completely clean.
Max

[phil]

Many of us use small gravel from road or driveway to more thoroughly clean the inside of the tank. Remove fuel tap and filter, add soapy water and a cup or two of gravel, shake for 15-20 mins making sure all inside surfaces get gravel shaken over them.
So if you get clogged screens again this would likely be worthwhile.

Nice to hear its running well for you now.