Removing rust from water jacket

[Stelios_Rjk]

I didn't like the fact that there was rust in the water jacket. So I decide to remove it via a promising product. It is not an oxide, you can touch it with bare hands and it is supposed to remove the rust. Evaporust it is called. It worked for some small pieces of metal. This powerhead is running so for 3.5 hours. I can see more liquid coming out from the exit, better circulation in other words. I hope it does what is says. I think I will leave it so until tomorrow.
Any comment welcomed.

[Bluecloud]

Looks about right for 1st thing in the morning. I'm impressed with the testing set up! I cleaned the scunge out of my 40+ the hard way and was rewarded with a flow about the same size.

[Niander101]

Thats got to be the smallest test tank ever!

you are pumping that in using a little pump

interesting idea

[Stelios_Rjk]

Yes and I am watching results. Compare the flows! Today the flow is much bigger!
I stop it for 7 hours in the night closing the exit in order to remain the liquid inside the water jacket. Now is still running. I thing I will leave it so until afternoon (24hours).

[Niander101]

it looks like its working!

btw I have a good amal 2 jet carb bowl

that one you have is terrible!

wanna do a deal on some amal throttle cables?

[Stelios_Rjk]

Hehehe, by the time we talk a parcel from John SOS is on the way including a cover to replace this one. But I can swap some cables for other parts. An amal 46N carb body with destroied threads for example..!

[Niander101]

Want 2?

[Niander101]

or 3?

[Stelios_Rjk]

PM sent and received..! I think I will buy things paying in throttle cables!

[Niander101]

Yep seagull currency

[charlesp]

Rust and rubbish removal from water jackets crops up here with great regularity, and any product that promises to remove rubbish without taking the power head apart is always superficially attractive. We've looked in depth at the whole process in the past, and the other Charles has conducted a number of experiments with a view to unblocking 102/Marston cylinder blocks.

We have seen people using kettle descaled, citric acid, Coca-Cola, Ridlyme, and a battery of other things, and usually there are initial claims of success.

But - and it's a big 'but' - without taking the head off and having a proper look you can never tell if it's worked or not. It's no good relying on the fact that there's a better stream of water coming from the telltale. All that will tell you is if there is more water coming through than there was before. In fact it doesn't tell you very much at all. A blockage internally fills up the waterways and also fills up what is effectively a water bath. This water bath is essential for the transfer of heat from the iron of the cylinder block into the coolant. It isn't just simple passageway through the block, and a simple passageway is all you're creating if you manage to increase the flow a little bit. Any cleansing agent or dissolving compound will only act on that blockage that it can actually physically reach, and it's the blockage that it can't reach that is effectively insulating the metal from the water.

The only reliable way to clear up blocked block is to take the cylinder head off take the crankcase off and clear the blockage with a suitable implement. If you do it this way you're removing not just rust, but you're removing salt, carbon, mud, sand, weed, all baked into place by the gently overheating powerhead.

As this internal letter of muck builds up overheating takes place on increasing scale as time goes by. merely clearing a passage through that blockage isn't doing you much good at all.

[Collector Inspector]

What CP said like??????

Best way aye?

We can be like a dentist sometimes in that little picks and scrapers are needed to get really personal with corrosion?

Getting personal with yr block, first time, any old dear, is really cool!

After that, all is good as you know exactly the nature of your beast yeh?

B

[Oyster 49]

I agree, off with the head is the only way. You need be sure ALL the waterways are clear. Otherwise a blockage will allow local hotspots in the area of the blockage, but the water flow could still be ok.

Off with it at once young man, and you will then confident that the block is in good order

With 102 blocks I remove all the pipe fittings which allows all the larger bits of rust to come out. I then flush with hot water in both directions until no more bits come out. I then fill the block with boiler descaler and leave overnight before rue flushing.

[Stelios_Rjk]

The idea of this project is perfection. I had striped down the heads and clean the waterways. Now I want to disappear any trace of rust by a chemical way. After that I want to secure the blocks from rust with cold galvanization. I have a spray 98% zinc and 2% epoxy. The problem is how am i going to apply it everywhere in the water jacket. I will search this particular product in liquid form. It will be much easier to apply it.

Has anyone tried anything similar?

[Charles uk]

Perfection on the cylinder type your trying to clean is just not possible there is a pocket on the crankcase side of the the exhaust port that is almost impossible to remove the black iron oxide from.

It took me 6 weeks using a chemical used for removing rust from cooling & water injection pipes on offshore oil platforms, I had to heat the solution & pump it round with a plastic fish tank pump that also started to dissolve, it did remove all the iron oxide but left the inside of the water jacket looking like sand blasted wood, so it was also dissolving good cast iron as well, so we gave up on that.

All the other chemicals I tried which included, boiler & kettle descalers & a lot of the other branded rust removers, left for a week in a chemical beaker on top of my central heating boiler, with 10 grams of concretion that I removed from cracked cylinders some of which was powdered & some in lumps & flakes, stirred with wooden coffee stirrer stolen from Costa Coffee every time I walked past, if I remember right after filtering, drying & weighing I don't belive more than 15% had gone into solution. NOT GOOD ENOUGH! to recommend.

One of the most common places for a cylinder to crack is on the crankcase side of the exhaust port, where it's never seen until too late!