Unrestored 102 SD (Naval?)

[Keith.P]

It's possible to do, I machined a collar out of brass and soldered it on, works and looks fine.

[Beagle2]

Here is a pic of the split:

Can this be repaired? Push in the split a bit and lead it over?

Think I'll try and get standard tank and modify to bayonet. Are the caps available?

[charlesp]

Sort of yes and no. New caps are available online. These are chromed, with a flat surface that has no air bleed. So they're functional but not entirely authentic.

A brass tank with screw filler would be much the easiest option; one of the aluminium filler caps would look more the part than a plastic one, and maybe use that while searching for a steel one. Incidentally brass tanks with bayonet fittings were used immediately after the wartime production so it's possible you may find one of those. Still not a steel one of course, but at least it has a bayonet.

You could patch that tank, perhaps a strip of brass as a 'sticking plaster' suitably soft soldered. After all, that's why brass tanks were introduced, to be 'mendable' in the field as it were. Naturally you'll have to be very careful about removing any trace of petrol before applying a flame - plenty of advice about that available online.

[StephenRT]

You could patch that tank, perhaps a strip of brass as a 'sticking plaster' suitably soft soldered.

Probably best to silver solder the patch,it will then stay put when you do the lead loading.

[Hugz]

A previous owner repaired a tank on one of my ADs:

So can be done. No leaks.

[Beagle2]

Thanks for the replies, think i'll patch the old tank as it seems a shame to waste. I really need to get the engine finally up and running before worrying too much about making it original.

I am trying to set the timing; there is no "simple dimple" to align the base plate with the crankcase (hence setting the correct timing). I can see no timing marks either.

From previous posts I see the timing should be 23 1/2 deg BTDC. Is there a simple way to work this out? I've had silly, complicated ideas about working out the piston position involving a dial gauge, spark plug holes and calculators. I don't want to go down this route if possible.

[Hugz]

Could you not get it approximately correct and then when running reposition until you feel the motor is running at optimum efficiency?

Similar position as Century.

[Collector Inspector]

I use the points opening method at 5/32" BTDC measuring through the spark plug hole.

Then with that set I know where I am to fiddle with baseplate if required.

5/32" usually runs great.

B

[Charles uk]

Bruce I think you mean 5/64 not 5/32, 5/64 will give you approx 23 degrees BTDC the exact metric dimension is 1.99mm BTDC.

If you use 5/32 it will set the timing at 33 BTDC about 10 degrees too early!

[Stelios_Rjk]

When you have to measure angles with a protractor like this or any other instrument, the bigger the triangle you will use, the better accuracy you will achieve.



If you create this LMN triangle for example with rods to measure your angle, do it big! Edges around one meter or more will give you a good result in accuracy.

Just theory on this matter. I hope it was kind of useful.

[Beagle2]

Thanks for the replies and for the pic Stelios. Think I'll try and set up using a depth gauge and double check with a measured angle.

I'm still messing around with copper fuel pipes (!). I'm having to modify one of the tail end profiles to create a fuel tight seal. I wish I had a lathe... a clamped drill isn't quite the same

[Stelios_Rjk]

Pleasure to help. In your occasion when I need to reduce the diameter of a banjo bolt I used a flat grindstone. Catch the bolt with the drill and rasp, it may help. I had nice result.

[Charles uk]

Perhaps I better explain the way I set the timing on the “coolie hat ignition” systems found on all pre MK 1 Villiers Seagulls & Marstons.

First do all you have to ensure that you’ve got a good spark, because without one it doesn’t matter where you set the timing.

Now you’ve got to locate top dead centre, TDC.
Smash the centre electrode from an old 18mm sparkplug then weld or silver solder a length of 12 mm bar into the centre of the electrode hole taking care not to damage the threads, the bar should project about 25mm from the end of the spark plug & needs to have a rounded end with no sharp corners.
Now you need to make a pointer out of stiff wire, coat hanger perhaps, sharpen one end to a point & fasten the other to a crankcase bolt so that the point is about 1mm from the flywheel & 3mm above the bottom edge.

Set the base plate fixing screw to the 9 o’clock position, sparkplug is 12 o’clock, this will set the timing somewhere close to where it needs to be.
Move the piston to bottom dead centre & insert the modified sparkplug firmly.
Rotate the flywheel until the piston hits the sparkplug & mark the flywheel with a fine permanent marker exactly in line with the pointer, rotate the flywheel the other way until you hit the stop & mark again. Measure the distance between these 2 marks & mark the exact middle on the side that didn’t pass your pointer, this will be TDC, the middle on the other side will be BDC.

Mark a clear longer line on the flywheel rim 37 mm to the left of your TDC mark.
Replace sparkplug but leave pointer in position.
Connect a strobe light with the dwell set to zero onto your HT lead & start the engine, rotate the baseplate until the strobe flashes when the clear long line passes the pointer, your timing should now be at 23 degrees BTDC.
TIGHTEN THE LOCKING SCREW.

37mm is the distance for a 184mm diameter coolie hat flywheel, for the Villiers mk1, Wipac or any of the CDI ignitions the distance will need recalculating!

[Beagle2]

Thanks a lot Charles for posting this.

I don't have a scrap spark plug, could I use an M18 bolt cut to particular length? Never realised the thread was metric.

Thanks again.

[Niander101]

The simplest way that would work is simply try the ignition base plate in the position you think it should be try and start it
if no good move it round a bit keep doing this till it starts
then once running you can rotate it and listen to the engine to get it running the smoothest
then try it you could make slight adjustments if needed
once happy center punch the position..you could also drill the little hole for the screw then its locked
Ive done this myself so i know it works...simple!