40 minus Restoration

[Oyster 49]

My next project is 40 minus serial SJM218. This number dates the engine as 1955. I got this engine earlier this year, and it seems to be pretty original. So far it has come apart very easily...even the head screws came out easily.

After taking the head off, I was surprised to see a steel head gasket rather than a copper one.

More to follow as the restoration develops. Next job is to prepare the tank for end removal. Not sure if my torch is hot enough Might have to invest...

[Beagle2]

A few years ago I restored a 40 minus SJM27515.

A nice engine to work on. Compact size and the parts were easy to find.

Mine is very similar to yours. It has a steel exhaust tube with a polished finish. The prop is the smaller 2 blade mini one The Villiers carb has a brass drain valve. Not sure if this was original.

I'd post some pics but am currently away

Best of luck with the restoration

[Collector Inspector]

Yes Indeed, best of luck with Resto Aye!

I had a LOT of fun with mine and it ended up being a "keeper".

Nice motors.

B

[Bluecloud]

Fun project! So, the difference between the 'Plus' and 'Minus' is the different g/boxes?

[charlesp]

Pretty much so, yes. The Minus has a smaller gearbox/prop/water pump housing, and shorter drive shaft tube/water pipe/exhaust.

Same with others in the series - FV/FVP - LS/LM - F/FP

[Collector Inspector]

Not exactly like that. Maybe me wrong?

B

[charlesp]

Eh?

[Oyster 49]

I made my first attempt at tank end removal earlier. Sort of successful. I had to use 2 blowtorches, one propane another propane/butane mix. Problem was maintaining enough heat over a wide enough surface area so the heat does the work.

So I had to use a screwdriver as well to gently get the end off, which resulted in a couple of tears to the end cap.

So the moral of the story is buy a large propane burner, take plenty of time and let the heat do the work. H-A's video on youtube is spot on. Enough heat over the entire end and the end cap will just about drop off when it is ready. The whole end needs to be glowing red.

Also this will take plenty of time to do, getting the ends off is just the start of the job. Next I have to gently reshape the end caps and prepare to resolder. Once resoldered prepare for painting.

Good fun though

[Gannet]

Well done.
I have just acquired an early Minus (SJM35). It runs and seems ok. It is not in as good as condition as yours, but apart from the throttle lever I think is reasonably correct. The tank is very dented, but I lack your skill and determination to do what you have just done. My excuse is that I haven't got the blowtorch!
I think these early SJMs did not have the feature to restrict steering angle. Is that correct? If so, I wonder at what serial number that feature was introduced. The small 'lump' on the casting at the top of my drive shaft tube, has been drilled and tapped 3/8 BSF. Charlesp suggested that this part might have come from another model. He suggested taking a photo and including it, but having trouble in that area at the moment. Has yours this feature?
Cheers

Jeremy

[Oyster 49]

My drive shaft tube is exactly the same, with no feature to limit steering angle. Perhaps a common part, utilised on the "New" version of the 40?

This leg will have to be dipped in the pickling tank well before chroming. On the subject of chroming I'm preparing for severe bruising of the wallet. So far I have been quoted £75 and £80 for a single leg. Both are high class classic car restorers though.

Does anybody know of a decent chroming shop that is a reasonable price?

[Collector Inspector]

Eh?

I thort the water pump housing was the same?

B

[charlesp]

You are of course quite right! The water pump housing is the same...

I really must think before I dictate....

[Oyster 49]

The repaired end is now back on. Vast improvement. I have another flat end tank to repair, so the best finished one will go on the this engine. I've also got a new bigger propane burner so I can remove ends using heat rather than force

Next step a good rub down to tidy up the re-soldered joint, it will need a tiny amount of filler at a couple places, then ready for coat of primer. Quite enjoying this take the ends off lark, should have tried earlier Lead loading dents is soo last year

[Oyster 49]

An inside view of a seagull tank, first time I have had a close look inside a tank

[Oyster 49]

I have been checking around my area for a chrome plating shop to re-chrome the leg off this engine. I have bee quoted £75 and £80!

Does anybody have a decent local plating shop that could re-do my leg for me? I will do most of the dressing and polishing myself, I just need it dipping in the tanks.