Mallard rebuild

[Oyster 49]

No serial numbers at all on this engine, apart from "32" stamped on the gearbox.

Original spark plugs arrived today, complete with original packaging, and instruction sheet on greaseproof paper. Takes you back

[Oyster 49]

The Mallard is now back together and looking good. I need to get a tank and the fuel poppet valve. Wait and see for those I suppose. The ignition system is a little odd, there is no woodruff key slot in the crank, so the flywheel has to go in the "sort of" correct position. Sparks like a good un' though message to self don't touch the metal of the spark plug when testing for a spark. I have a numb thumb

Under the crud is a nice little engine saved! All it needed was a bit of elbow grease

[Keith.P]

You should be able to get a tank, maybe not an original,
I have some but to big or to small for what you need, but a mower tank like the Villiers and atco will look the part, always for sale on ebay.

[Oyster 49]

Yes, I will have a sniff about. Something will come up.

Keith I have an engine you might be interested in, drop me a PM. I can't seem to PM you.

[Collector Inspector]

Looking the goods!

B

[Oyster 49]

Just need one of those poppet valves. Any joy in your sheds?

[Collector Inspector]

Just need one of those poppet valves. Any joy in your sheds?

Yep, I have found one for you.

Proper tank as well.................no dents but sanz cap and tap thread. Better than nothin aye? Mounts in place.

Free Red Backs included.

Email me.

B

[Oyster 49]

Top bloke! I've had a word and Holly Valance is on the way over to give you a big sloppy kiss!

[Collector Inspector]

Holly Valance never showed up....................................Madonna called in on her tour though.

http://www.abc.net.au/news/2012-02-07/m ... rs/3816788



B

[Oyster 49]

I did a bit more on the Mallard today, now I have a tank and poppet valve

First job was to solder a nut in place for a fuel tap. Next dressed out the rust and prepared for paint, filled a few small dents, a really good rub down, followed by a couple of coats of primer. next job is to see what imperfections show up, if ok a light wet and dry and a couple of coats of high build primer, flattened back between coats, then some colour, Halfords very thoughtfully have a shade of blue that seems about right.

Anybody got any photos of a Mallard blue tank in the correct shade? How about any pics pics of a Mallard tank decal?

After that just a fuel line to sort out. Need to make a banjo bolt first.

[Oyster 49]

First coat of colour. Makes a huge difference. Big smiles all round. several coats required with a flatten in between. The colour I found to be fairly close to the original is Ford "Fjord blue"

[Oyster 49]

Tank now finished. I have used Halfords petrol resistant lacquer again. Takes 2 weeks to properly cure though. It also does occasionally splatter out of the nozzle, leaving a small blob on an otherwise perfect tank Those will rub down when the lacquer is hard though.

Any other suggestions for a clear coat that does not curl up it's toes when it comes into contact with petrol? Also friendly to decals?

[Oyster 49]

Finally got around to putting the little Mallard back together today. I like the idea of an engine I can carry around in 1 hand Very sweet litle thing it is. Ran up ok, but keeps cutting out, due to fuel starvation. There is a tiny little hole in the poppet valve, where the fuel is drawn into the mixing chamber. This was partially blocked. I then discovered the tank was not as clean as I thought.

Now running a little better, but still prone to cutting out suddenly. I'll obtain some fresh fuel. I also need to fiddle about with the position of the flywheel, so the timing lever is in the right place.

Nice to see it running though. I have been running it on around 12:1 Can anybody tell me what the actual mix should be ? 16:1 perhaps?

[Collector Inspector]

Looking REALLY nice!

I think it says 1/2 pint to the gallon on the fuel cap?

16:1 (I have 16:1 as permenant source in the workshop as you can run anything with it in a test tank..........One container to worry about and nothing will be hurt with it)

I would set the advance lever above the left hand carb (Body to Case)attaching screw and set flywheel so points just start to open ATDC. Anything to the left will stop the engine. Anything to the right will advance the timing and speed things up. If you go too far advance, it will let you know to back off a bit. Smooth running advance will be above the right hand carb attaching screw.......roughly. Start advance would be just slightly right of centered lever or rotated to taste.

Points at 0.015

Plug at 0.025

Try that.

B

[Oyster 49]

Yes, it is a interesting little engine. In regards to timing, it currently starts with the lever just to the left of the poppet valve, high speed is with the lever slightly right of centre as you look at it.

The water pipe is leaking also, so I need to seal that up.

All told a sweet little engine, very smooth runner.