fuel proof paint

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:05 am

Just found that "holts dupli-color professional"seams to resist attack from petrol much better than most other products.
It is certainly splash proof when left to cure for 2 weeks and so far has passed my petrol soaked rag test.
Its availble from halfords via there paint mixing service although not cheap at Â£9.99 for a 300ml aerosol.

40TPI · Post by **40TPI** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 11:54 am

Any views on best primer to go with it? Had heard that acrylic primer was good on ali flywheels under Hammerite but not tried a test.

The most durable finish would probably be a powder coat but I'd be concerned about loss of magnetism in a flywheel during the heat curing. S'pose there is always the electric drill spin up recovery .

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 12:13 pm

I used halfords standard car primer.
With regards to ally,there are special primers avaible("wicks do one for priming window frames).
Can i suggest that anyone using this paint trys a test piece first just incase my sample was a fluke!!

40TPI · Post by **40TPI** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:03 pm

Any views on best primer to go with it? Had heard that acrylic primer was good on ali flywheels under Hammerite but not tried a test.

The most durable finish would probably be a powder coat but I'd be concerned about loss of magnetism in a flywheel during the heat curing. S'pose there is always the electric drill spin up recovery .

steve66 · Post by **steve66** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 5:13 pm

I use Hycote laquer in a yellow can, and never ever had any problems with it.It sprays over Johns water slide transfers nicely too,i personally have never had a problem with petrol melting it.
Steve

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Wed Feb 28, 2007 10:13 pm

where do you get hycote from?
at the end of the day its only the fuel tank thats likely to get raw fuel on it so i guess its not that important what you uae on the rest of the motor.
John what do you use? when doing a restoration?
Has anyone come across a answer to the problem of refinishing tanks etc at home?

Charles UK · Post by **Charles UK** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 12:15 am

I have painted several steel tanks from the wartime & Marston era & have always used green zinc chromate primer as Seagull always did on there aluminium painted parts, I use a light coat of this on all the steel tanks before a coat of smooth Hammerite black.

Hammerite & the chromate paint are not even slightly petrol proof for at least 2 weeks after applying, fuel tanks I then spray with Halfords petrol proof lacquer after I have applied the water slide transfer.

With luck in about 3 months We hope to have reproductions of all the pre sailorman waterslide transfers available right back to the all text Marston seagull & the gold flying Marston Seagull.
John will be able to supply then on this site.

I bought a tin of Hammerite smooth black a couple of days ago, on the tin was a new label saying that it was suitable for use with a roller, it left a very high gloss finish but left brush marks, perhaps the brush I was using had bristles that were too stiff.
So I had to rub it down again & will use it as a black undercoat that I will spray over with aerosol smooth hammerite, & hope there is no reaction.
The old non suitable for roller application smooth black never gave me this problem

I'm remanufacturing some steel Marston bayonet fuel cap tanks at the moment if there is anyone out there with a wrecked steel or brass tank with the bayonet cap fitting, in good condition, please contact me, as I really need the necks & it's the only part of a Marston tank we can't recreate from scratch.

Charles UK

steve66 · Post by **steve66** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 11:31 am

Hi Mr Draddy.Hycote is available in most car accessory shops its in a yellow can with the manufacturer"hycote" on it.If your just going to spray the tank and are not going to apply transfers cellilose is still available in black aerosol cans and that is petrol resistant without the need for relaquering.In all my tanks ive restored ive not yet had a problem with petrol reacting with the paint.
Steve

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 7:53 pm

Thanks for that steve,i wil look out for "hycote".
didnt realise cellulose was still availble,thought it was banned along with things like creosote etc,all the spray paint ive looked at appear to be water based.

steve66 · Post by **steve66** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:18 pm

Hi Paul,I actually bought a large aerosol can of cellulose black a fortnight ago.It was labelled black cellulose so nothing to hide there. Good luck.
Steve

mrdraddy · Post by **mrdraddy** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:31 pm

Oh sorry about that steve i thought it was! I will have to look out for that as well.

steve66 · Post by **steve66** » Thu Mar 01, 2007 8:35 pm

Hi Paul just found this on Ebay .This is the black cellulose i use number: 140090575130 and also "hycote" spray 300085572300.May be of some use to you.
Steve

Colin · Post by **Colin** » Sat Mar 03, 2007 5:00 pm

Iâ€™m currently testing a paint recommended to me by a local dealer and manufactured by Bill Hirsch Auto of New Jersey (New Joysey if youâ€™re from Brooklyn). Supposedly, once cured, itâ€™s completely resistant to gasoline. The engine enamels can be used on surfaces reaching up to 600 degrees F. None enamels, such as aluminum, can be used on surfaces up to 1800 degree F. http://www.hirschauto.com/

Hopefully the clams are correct since itâ€™s expensive; 1 quart of enamel and 1 pint of aluminum came to $97.00 including the 15% tax.

I'll post the results of my test over the coming months.