Hi all,
I am totally new to a boat engine, I was given a seagull 40 plus engine. I have had to replace the HT cable and sparkplug so far as I found the cable was broken, but was unsure about the plug.
I am now at a point where I have 3 spark plugs (1 is the original and it is all rusty and 2 new ones) no matter what i am doing and no matter what I try I cannot get a spark out the plug.
If i put a meter on the cable (or if I want to numb my left arm for a while) I get a reading/shock from it, but when I put any of the plugs in I get nothing.
I have set the plugs to what my service manual for the engine says but not a peep.
Can anyone help in anything else I can check/try to gain a spark as I am at the end of my knowledge of sparkplugs (didn't have any to start).
Thanks,
Ironhorse
Issues with sparkplug
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Re: Issues with sparkplug
i just got my first gull yesterday, and im having a similiar issue, i can get spark, get the engine to run, then it dies! it seems to eat plugs! put a new one in, and it runs, then kills the plug! have you tried cleaning your points? might not be getting enough power to spark, but enough for a good shock!
hope someone chimes in with a bit of advice
hope someone chimes in with a bit of advice
Re: Issues with sparkplug
It might help to post the numbers & letters on the lower half of the crankcase so we know what model we are dealing with. Pic is an example of what & where to look.
Re: Issues with sparkplug
My serial number is FP1387BB6.
Ironhorse
Ironhorse
Re: Issues with sparkplug
OK first things first...
When you look at the plug to see if you get a spark is it properly grounded? Are you turning the engine over with the starter cord or just by hand?
Are you trying to see a spark in very bright sunlight?
Did you buy a complete replacement HT lead, or did you make one up?
What type of plugs are they?
Did you thoroughly clean and gap the points?
When you look at the plug to see if you get a spark is it properly grounded? Are you turning the engine over with the starter cord or just by hand?
Are you trying to see a spark in very bright sunlight?
Did you buy a complete replacement HT lead, or did you make one up?
What type of plugs are they?
Did you thoroughly clean and gap the points?
Re: Issues with sparkplug
The most common cause for these symptoms is dirty points. Either oxidized or oily.
I use 320 weight Silicon carbide or Aluminum oxide sandpaper strips cut about 1/8" wide and 6" long, backed by a piece of spring steel strip [load strapping from the lumber yard] cut to 1/8" x 3" long. Remove the rope pull starter plate, work through the hole in the flywheel to access the points. Sand each side with points closed. Swab with alcohol, dry with a clean cotton swab or fresh piece of paper towel. To be doubly sure, with points closed draw a piece of brown butchers paper through the points till it comes out clean. Set points to .020". Check for spark, should hear snap and be bright blue. If you have a spark tester it should jump a gap of 1/4 " in air. Set plug at .020, my best results with plugs have been with NGK the proper number is AB6. Would not hurt to clean spark plug electrode surfaces with sandpaper for better start.
For a really proper job, remove the flywheel, take out the points, sand with 320 paper, then 500, do not reshape flat surface of points while doing this. Swab clean with alcohol. Reinstall, set plug and points to .020"
I use 320 weight Silicon carbide or Aluminum oxide sandpaper strips cut about 1/8" wide and 6" long, backed by a piece of spring steel strip [load strapping from the lumber yard] cut to 1/8" x 3" long. Remove the rope pull starter plate, work through the hole in the flywheel to access the points. Sand each side with points closed. Swab with alcohol, dry with a clean cotton swab or fresh piece of paper towel. To be doubly sure, with points closed draw a piece of brown butchers paper through the points till it comes out clean. Set points to .020". Check for spark, should hear snap and be bright blue. If you have a spark tester it should jump a gap of 1/4 " in air. Set plug at .020, my best results with plugs have been with NGK the proper number is AB6. Would not hurt to clean spark plug electrode surfaces with sandpaper for better start.
For a really proper job, remove the flywheel, take out the points, sand with 320 paper, then 500, do not reshape flat surface of points while doing this. Swab clean with alcohol. Reinstall, set plug and points to .020"
Re: Issues with sparkplug
charlesp wrote:OK first things first...
When you look at the plug to see if you get a spark is it properly grounded? Are you turning the engine over with the starter cord or just by hand?
Are you trying to see a spark in very bright sunlight?
Did you buy a complete replacement HT lead, or did you make one up?
What type of plugs are they?
Did you thoroughly clean and gap the points?
Thank you for your response, I believe it is grounded (I am holding it on the block. I am using the start cord (pulling it as hard as I can).
We have been doing it in a garage so its low light for better chance of seeing spark.
It is a complete new HT cable as the old was ruined.
The original plug I have no idea as the plug is rusty on the outside and you cannot read it. The other 2 were bought brand new, 1 is an NGK the other is a champion bought from John at Saving old seagulls (got the plug yesterday - Friday). I have gapped them all to what the service manual states (.020 inch or 0.5mm).
Ironhorse
Re: Issues with sparkplug
Either the NGK or the Champion should be fine. There's not much that will go wrong with a plug, so stick with John's.
Phil has posted about cleaning the points, it's very good advice, It's essential that they are clean otherwise they won't make an electrical circuit when closed.
When that's done and they have the right gap have another go. Make sure the plug is grounded - I tend to use tape to hold it securely to exposed metal - and spin it round.
Let us know how you get on.
Phil has posted about cleaning the points, it's very good advice, It's essential that they are clean otherwise they won't make an electrical circuit when closed.
When that's done and they have the right gap have another go. Make sure the plug is grounded - I tend to use tape to hold it securely to exposed metal - and spin it round.
Let us know how you get on.