Forty Long Shaft
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Forty Long Shaft
Hi, I am always on the look out for a 40 plus long shaft with clutch. Plenty of long shafts about on ebay, and the occasional short shaft with clutch - but never ever the combination of long shaft and clutch? So were they ever made?
Whilst making a cup of tea after my post I realised that I actually know where there is one, and it's for sale too...
Super condition - probably only a few hours use, and comes from a well respected source. I guess it'll be the only one in the country that's for sale - try John on 01621 778859, or even better look on his site:
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/items_for_sale.htm
Scroll about half way down the the page...
Super condition - probably only a few hours use, and comes from a well respected source. I guess it'll be the only one in the country that's for sale - try John on 01621 778859, or even better look on his site:
http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/items_for_sale.htm
Scroll about half way down the the page...
Mark,i have 40 long shaft for sale,tatty looking but its all there and it runs fine.
Its not got a clutch fitted but im sure john could supply one,if your interesed i want circa £35. for it.
I bought it as a non-running spares source but after it started second pull i didnt have the heart to break it!!
Its not got a clutch fitted but im sure john could supply one,if your interesed i want circa £35. for it.
I bought it as a non-running spares source but after it started second pull i didnt have the heart to break it!!
regards paul
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Charles UK
To fit a clutch to this you will need a,
long shaft drive shaft tube suitable for clutch lever, lever & mounting stud with all the bits, clutch actuation shaft, 2.5:1 clutched gearbox & a model 55 prop.
This is a very desirable upgrade to a 40+, it will probably cheaper to buy the right motor.
After watching Ebay for several years, you will probably have to pay £150 to £200 + shipping & take your chance on the condition.
The one that John is selling with a guarantee is starting to look cost effective!
long shaft drive shaft tube suitable for clutch lever, lever & mounting stud with all the bits, clutch actuation shaft, 2.5:1 clutched gearbox & a model 55 prop.
This is a very desirable upgrade to a 40+, it will probably cheaper to buy the right motor.
After watching Ebay for several years, you will probably have to pay £150 to £200 + shipping & take your chance on the condition.
The one that John is selling with a guarantee is starting to look cost effective!
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40TPI
- Posts: 451
- Joined: Fri Jan 26, 2007 7:08 pm
- Location: North Buckinghamshire, 110 miles south of Yorkshire, England.
And the key here is to have not only a set of the factory Service Sheets (The Service Manual) but also the owners Spares List handbook as supplied with each new motor. This shows something of the interchangeability picture but not all! I don't have a late parts list that shows the Forty clutch gearbox part numbers but I'd suspect that a Century or Century Plus clutched box would mechanically fit although the ratio may be slightly wrong. Then again 'Gulls seem totally empirical!
At least you can get a hint at what might be possible from the Parts List. Helps too if you have copies across quite a few years. They can also help with questions on correct build in a restoration. For example the part lists show that washers are not used under the 1/4 BSF crankcase bolt heads or nuts, as one might expect. On the other hand it does not show that original nuts are single chamfer or what the finish was! (Nor that original 5/16 "headbolts"on Centurys are threaded the full length and should really be termed set or machine screws!)
I do sometimes wonder if there are full mechanical parts and general assembly drawings still in existance, gathering dust and mildew somewhere. Nirvana! Surely they must have existed at one time? (Or even sets of microfiches which surely must have existed in the later years?) I can't believe that it was all done on golden casting patterns and Woodbine packets...........
At least you can get a hint at what might be possible from the Parts List. Helps too if you have copies across quite a few years. They can also help with questions on correct build in a restoration. For example the part lists show that washers are not used under the 1/4 BSF crankcase bolt heads or nuts, as one might expect. On the other hand it does not show that original nuts are single chamfer or what the finish was! (Nor that original 5/16 "headbolts"on Centurys are threaded the full length and should really be termed set or machine screws!)
I do sometimes wonder if there are full mechanical parts and general assembly drawings still in existance, gathering dust and mildew somewhere. Nirvana! Surely they must have existed at one time? (Or even sets of microfiches which surely must have existed in the later years?) I can't believe that it was all done on golden casting patterns and Woodbine packets...........
'or Woodbine packets...'
I wouldn't be at all surprised if that's exactly what things were drawn on, especially later on.
At one point (I'm told) the chief engineer passed away, and all his sketches were at home.
It's highly probable that the engineering drawings were lost in the skip when the factory was taken over in 1977, or in the incinerator when it was sold again later.
Microfiche! Hmm, I'd need a lot of convincing that even in the vary last years, microfiche was even considered.
I would dearly love to be proved wrong.[/i]
I wouldn't be at all surprised if that's exactly what things were drawn on, especially later on.
At one point (I'm told) the chief engineer passed away, and all his sketches were at home.
It's highly probable that the engineering drawings were lost in the skip when the factory was taken over in 1977, or in the incinerator when it was sold again later.
Microfiche! Hmm, I'd need a lot of convincing that even in the vary last years, microfiche was even considered.
I would dearly love to be proved wrong.[/i]
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Charles UK
Your right 40tpi the ratio would be a little bit wrong, post 1960 Seagull produced 3 "clutched lower units"
The 2.5 : 1 which was fitted to the 40+ & the model 55, 75, 125 & the Curlew.
The 3.1 : 1 FNR lower unit that was fitted to the Model 110, 90, 170, Kingfisher & the Osprey.
The 4 : 1 century lower unit.
It is fairly safe to assume that the 102cc power head produces about twice the power of the 64cc 40 series version, leaving you with the huge, almost insurmountable problem of finding a prop that your motor will turn at upto 4000 revs.
Perhaps your best bet would be an early 102, 2.5 : 1 clutched lower unit fastened to your existing water pump housing by drilling another hole for the retaining bolt & a 2 bladed 102 prop with the blades progessivly cut down in stages until your 64cc powerhead will operate at full revs whilst on the back of your boat.
Or you could always use the correct model 55 prop & hope that the drag of a greased gearbox would not be too much for your powerhead to overcome.
I fear that dragging the bulk of a 3.1 : 1 or a 4 : 1 century lower unit through the water would be the straw that broke the camel's back.
Good luck & let us know how you get on.
Rest assured if there was an easy, cheap way to do this I'm sure Seagull would have produced it
The 2.5 : 1 which was fitted to the 40+ & the model 55, 75, 125 & the Curlew.
The 3.1 : 1 FNR lower unit that was fitted to the Model 110, 90, 170, Kingfisher & the Osprey.
The 4 : 1 century lower unit.
It is fairly safe to assume that the 102cc power head produces about twice the power of the 64cc 40 series version, leaving you with the huge, almost insurmountable problem of finding a prop that your motor will turn at upto 4000 revs.
Perhaps your best bet would be an early 102, 2.5 : 1 clutched lower unit fastened to your existing water pump housing by drilling another hole for the retaining bolt & a 2 bladed 102 prop with the blades progessivly cut down in stages until your 64cc powerhead will operate at full revs whilst on the back of your boat.
Or you could always use the correct model 55 prop & hope that the drag of a greased gearbox would not be too much for your powerhead to overcome.
I fear that dragging the bulk of a 3.1 : 1 or a 4 : 1 century lower unit through the water would be the straw that broke the camel's back.
Good luck & let us know how you get on.
Rest assured if there was an easy, cheap way to do this I'm sure Seagull would have produced it