SD restoration

[Rob Ripley]

Curiouser and curiouser ... my AD836 has brass plugs with what seems to be an Allen screw socket, the other AC has a metal (iron) plug.

[charlesp]

Originally they were sent out from the factory with the slotted screws. These later saw service as gearbox plugs - same thread, same screw, part of the original Seagull Interchangeability thing.

Later replacements were frequently hexagonal, as they were (and still are) available as a brass plumbing fitting. It's the plumbing world that provides us with the variations.

[Oyster 49]

My next job will be to repaint the tank for the SD. I'm intending to repair the few small dents which are easy to get at luckily, and then respray in gloss black, with a light rub down with wet and dry between 3-4 coats, then add the correct decals and then add a coat of clear. I'm still undecided as to fit new jubilee clips or just clean up the old ones.

Can anybody recommend an aerosol gloss black paint brand that won't turn into a gooey mess with a bit warmth or some 10:1 splashes onto it?

Thanks

[Horsley-Anarak]

I use Simoniz Tough Black.

http://www.holtsauto.com/products/print ... lack-satin

I use satin finish and then T-Cut to the semi gloss finish.

I do find that gloss black can look a bit new and shiny.

H-A

[Oyster 49]

Thanks H-A I will give that a go. Good point about the gloss finish, perhaps the combination of satin finish and a coat of clear lacquer will be spot on?

[woodbutchergraham]

I used several thin coats of smooth rite and then two hours on a low heat in the oven (while HID was out). Then left it to cure for two weeks next to the burner to harden off. (not too close as it bubbles paint) After that wet and dry down and cut back with T cut. Fuel spill proof providing the paints hardended off well.
As usual it’s up to you what you use. Sharing the same view point I didn’t want to bling this up but wanted it to look like someone cared about its existence.

[Oyster 49]

I went to halfords earlier today. but the choice of paints was not particularly good. So I bought some primer for the time being. The crankcase half arrived from Jan yesterday so I cleaned up the crank, applied some oil to the bearings and built it up! Looks nice

Jan has also been able to supply a SD gearbox that needs an overhaul. More to follow on that one.

[Oyster 49]

Just had my first try at lead loading. Got the hang of it fairly quickly, clean brass, plenty of flux and a bit of care seems the way ahead. Remembering to put the dent in the vertical plane so the solder pools is a good idea

After several small skims of filler and rub downs, this tank will have a final wet and dry and a coat of primer tomorrow night. Pics to follow..This the best tank I have which came off my SD.

Next to get the treatment is the bayonet brass tank that came on my AC. This will go onto the SD. Some good sized dents on the ends and where it sits on the brackets.

[Horsley-Anarak]

You could always just take the ends off

H-A

[Oyster 49]

I need a bigger torch to get enough heat to do that Are there any tools in the world you don't have

[phil]

You could pull some of those dents out, less filling. In the past have tinned the end of a piece of 5/16"x about 16" length of threaded rod soldered it to the center of the dent, set up the opposite end with a set of vise grips [mole grips?] under a nut. Or a suitable piece of steel with a 5/16 hole, secured to the threaded rod with some nuts, tap/hit with a hammer till dent is about out or till the solder joint breaks, repeat. Goes fairly quickly. Likely best to use zinc chloride as flux to initially tin the suitably cleaned rod end.

[Horsley-Anarak]

Have a look at a few carboot sales, you will soon find a nice propane torch.

I paid a tenner for my large one, and it came with a half bottle of gas.

Then you will need no filler at all.

H-A

[Oyster 49]

I might give that a try Phil, I saw a similar idea on a car restoration programme a while back, small tabs soldered in place then the dent was pulled out using a porta-pack. I have a third tank to repair, which has the largest dents, so this method could be good for that tank.

I got the first coat of primer on the first tank, which shows all the small imperfections well, time for a bit more sanding final filling.

I also cleaned up and lead loaded my brass bayonet tank. Interestingly, this tank is fabricated out of flat plate, with braized joints along the bottom and on both ends. You can still see the original dressing marks.

[Oyster 49]

I've now got 2 tanks with some paint on The first coat of primer allways shows any areas needing more sanding or a further scrape of filler. By filling the dent with solder, the need for filler is kept to a minimum.

The black finish is hammerite satin finish, which I will leave to harden off for a while before cutting back with T Cut, adding the decal and a coat of clear to finish the job off.

One left to do, and I've just obtained another tank, to restore and keep as a spare.

[Horsley-Anarak]

Looking good.

Make sure the clear coat does not react with the Hammerite satin finish.

Spray a beer tin with the same paint, let it dry the same way. This will be a good test piece to try the clearcoat on.

Hammerite can be a little funny with other paints.

Saying that some clearcoat can pickle transfers.

H-A