While im waiting to have my coil replace on my 40+LS i decided to strip it down and get a look at the piston. Thing is there doesnt seem to be away of spliting the crankcase from the block.
Comparing pictures and the usual trawling through the Forums i cant anything quite like this. Anybody seen anything like this before?
With the LS and FV series I would advise leaving it alone. If the thing runs and pumps water then it's probably a mistake to take it apart.
If you have to then yes, you're right, no nuts. The procedure is to remove the nuts at the other end - the ones holding the head on. The studs are threaded at both ends and go right through the water jacket. Most of those studs are fused by age and electrolytic action to the alloy of the crankcase, several I have removed have ended up looking like metal cotton buds with a blob of alloy on the end.
The gaskets at each end were steel, not paper and copper respectively, and these motors were assembled with liberal amounts of goopy stuff - a black Bostik compound. This is the reason they're scarce, most of those returned to the factory for anything major were swapped under a generous part exchange program. Many of the steel gaskets corroded rapidly and the motor were redesigned as the SJM ansd SJP series which did away with the 'through the water jacket' studs, and did away with the clench bolt arrangement holding the drive shaft tube to the crankcase.
Ah. I think attempting to remove this will make more work with the head and the likes. Studs through the water jacked seems like a big flaw when they designed the engine.
Iv back flushed the engine and seems like good water flow.
Gonna get it running when the Coil is replaced. And ill check the compression when i recieve the magneto pack.
I decided last night that the powerhead must be taken apart. Not content to look through the exhaust port to find the condition of the piston and rings i just had to take the risk.
The main thing i was afraid off was if the studs had become corroded or siezed. Turned out it was nothing of the sort. The nuts came off the head without any problems and the studs came out of the cranksase with ease.
The metal gaskets had minimal if any corrosion so im happy.
Now that iv done this i have a few questions if the members would be so kind.
1. Can i use the original metal gaskets when reasembling? They look in sound condition but im not experienced with this so any advice would be great.
2. Should i replace the pistion rings just for piece of mind? looking at the rings now i cant tell if they are in good condition.
3. Should i replace all the studs and crankshaft fittings with SS from john?
im gonna order a heap of stuff so i was gonna replace all this fittings on the engine with SS.. any arguments with regards to appearance?
I don't think you'll find that John has many, if any parts for this series of motors.
The other Charles was not joking when he said "if it ain't broke don't fix it", if there is anything you need for this motor you will have to have it made.
I'm not even sure if any of the crankcase innards are exchangeable, I have a vague memory that they are dimensionaly different.
Charlesp is going to have a look when he can find time.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
I have an LS under the workbench. It's stripped awaiting a rush of enthusiasm. If I were you I would use the existing nuts if they're OK, and the original gaskets. Whatever gaskets you eventually use make sure they are well pugged-up with sealant. The steel doesn't compress, so a watertight/gastight joint is impossible without something goopy.
The rings I would leave alone. I'm not entirely confident about this, but I'm pretty sure the piston/rings/conrod/crankshaft etc differ in some way. I haven't ever got round to measuring, but I'm guided by the British Seagull spares literature from way back, which made it quite clear that there were no more spares available. Given their talent for selling parts (always profitable) I have to assume that an ordinary Forty series piston, rings etc just won't do. So as long as they're not seized in there stik with the originals.
Whatever the state of the power head, I can tell you that the drive shaft and the impeller are not the same. You can use both from a forty series, or neither, if you see what I mean.
Thanks lads. Any input is appreciated. Everything looks in grand condition. By taking it apart it will make it easier to repaint and shine up. I think it will all come together nicely with patience. I might take you up on that LS if u are wanting to sell it. Not sure if she will be too impressed, iv managed to control my urges of hording seagulls of which I'm proud of but I guess we all give in at some stage:-)
Anyway I'm plodding along but need a new coil and a few bits from John so I hope to make a trip down to a seagull outing so I can meet people who understand;-)
