I'm working on an old wall-mount drinking fountain that came out of my Dad's grade school building. On my last trip to visit the folks I found the school...old, dilapidated, roof falling in and I think haunted. Found the fountain laying on the floor and grabbed it. When I get it cleaned up I'm mounting it in my shop to keep my having to run upstairs to the kitchen when I get dry. Dad say he remembers using the fountain and used to put his finger over the spout to spray other kids.
The drain bowl is made of iron and was very rusted. Knowing that it will be in contact w/ water again I used "rust converter" to preserve it. This stuff is supposed to convert rust into a black polymer based protective coating.
Got to wondering if this stuff would work on cylinder water passages. It could be applied when you open a cylinder up for cleaning. The surface it creates is smooth and seems fairly durable.
Here's a pic of what I used:
Rust Converter
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Jerry In Maine
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 3:19 am
- Location: Surry, Maine USA
Rust Converter
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Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4196
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
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Re: Rust Converter
Our stuff down here is called Rust Buster and converts rust to a phosphate of iron thus rendering it "Inert" and protecting whats underneath.
Rust has to be phisically removed first.
ie, clean out the cylinder jackets FIRST. Else, what is in there will turn to concrete!
Viniger and salt mixed up and either pumped thru the block or regularly changing a static fill will get rid of the rust but slowly. Turns into a black sludge that must be flushed out before applying (Filling or flushing again).
Slow but outstanding results and environmentally sound.
Do not get the sludge on any clothing that you want to wear to a hot date!
Where is the spell chekka?
B
Rust has to be phisically removed first.
ie, clean out the cylinder jackets FIRST. Else, what is in there will turn to concrete!
Viniger and salt mixed up and either pumped thru the block or regularly changing a static fill will get rid of the rust but slowly. Turns into a black sludge that must be flushed out before applying (Filling or flushing again).
Slow but outstanding results and environmentally sound.
Do not get the sludge on any clothing that you want to wear to a hot date!
Where is the spell chekka?
B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
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Collector Inspector
- Posts: 4196
- Joined: Sun Jun 29, 2008 4:32 am
- Location: Perth Western Australia
- Contact:
Re: Rust Converter
Case in point!
You prob been watching "Wozza", my SD so this bit, leg and tourque tube is for you.
Tube was painted steel.
Took ages to get the protective coatings , long ago, off but when off, you have to use this stuff (Your Stuff) to be able to paint it all silver again..............Sigh! (Woz has to be original) so silver.
Anyway, everything cleaned up, all rust (Most of it) removed and then, appy.
Leave a drying surface powder of rust then apply the chem.
Allow to dry maybe 10 daze, return and paint away...........that is what this stuff is for.
Goes black and no more problem from underneath.
B
You prob been watching "Wozza", my SD so this bit, leg and tourque tube is for you.
Tube was painted steel.
Took ages to get the protective coatings , long ago, off but when off, you have to use this stuff (Your Stuff) to be able to paint it all silver again..............Sigh! (Woz has to be original) so silver.
Anyway, everything cleaned up, all rust (Most of it) removed and then, appy.
Leave a drying surface powder of rust then apply the chem.
Allow to dry maybe 10 daze, return and paint away...........that is what this stuff is for.
Goes black and no more problem from underneath.
B
A chicken is one egg's way of becoming others
-
Jerry In Maine
- Posts: 140
- Joined: Thu Aug 12, 2010 3:19 am
- Location: Surry, Maine USA
Re: Rust Converter
i gave this a shot today. had a once-nasty 40+ cylinder that i had cooked for a couple days in my crock-pot to clean. water passages were clear but had a bit of surface rust.
the rust converter i have is thick - sorta like cream, and i was concerned about it thickly clinging to the sides of the passages thus restricting flow. i poured some in a bowl and added a bit of water. wasn't sure how this would effect the chemistry, but figured if the rust turned black things would be fine.
poured a bit in the passages and tilted/rotated it about in an effort to coat all internal surfaces...messy process, the rags i had on standby got used and i was glad to have them. once done i took a bit of compressed air and blew out the excess and let it stuff dry.
after drying the water passages are now coated with a fairly-smooth black (actually very dark purple) protective coating. this should keep it from rusting in the future - and maybe the "smoothness" might result in fresh water rinsings doing a better job of washing out salt deposits and silt since they don't have as irregular a surface to cling to.
notes i made for the next time:
add a little at a time, rotate the cylinder to coat surfaces, then add a bit more. this can be messy if you're not careful. more added = more mess.
a bit of water to thin the rust converter doesn't seem to hurt.
if you don't have compressed air available at least shake out the excess as big blobs will dry hard and restrict flow.
if you do have compressed air wear goggles...it'll blow back on you.
make sure excess if blown/wiped off threads. a cotton swab works good here.
don't fret if some gets on the bore. wipe off, let dry, polish off with wet/dry paper if the purple stain bugs you.
and as the Inspector correctly points out - make sure the passages have been cleaned first! this stuff doesn't remove rust, it turns it into a hard surface.
the rust converter i have is thick - sorta like cream, and i was concerned about it thickly clinging to the sides of the passages thus restricting flow. i poured some in a bowl and added a bit of water. wasn't sure how this would effect the chemistry, but figured if the rust turned black things would be fine.
poured a bit in the passages and tilted/rotated it about in an effort to coat all internal surfaces...messy process, the rags i had on standby got used and i was glad to have them. once done i took a bit of compressed air and blew out the excess and let it stuff dry.
after drying the water passages are now coated with a fairly-smooth black (actually very dark purple) protective coating. this should keep it from rusting in the future - and maybe the "smoothness" might result in fresh water rinsings doing a better job of washing out salt deposits and silt since they don't have as irregular a surface to cling to.
notes i made for the next time:
add a little at a time, rotate the cylinder to coat surfaces, then add a bit more. this can be messy if you're not careful. more added = more mess.
a bit of water to thin the rust converter doesn't seem to hurt.
if you don't have compressed air available at least shake out the excess as big blobs will dry hard and restrict flow.
if you do have compressed air wear goggles...it'll blow back on you.
make sure excess if blown/wiped off threads. a cotton swab works good here.
don't fret if some gets on the bore. wipe off, let dry, polish off with wet/dry paper if the purple stain bugs you.
and as the Inspector correctly points out - make sure the passages have been cleaned first! this stuff doesn't remove rust, it turns it into a hard surface.