1968 FP Renovation Problems
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
just drill the head of the screw off! you only have to drill down about 1/4" to remove the shoulber of it. that will still leave about 1/2 " of screw left to get the vice grips on after you centre punch the waterpump housing off
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
I am still working on it without success. Have been using a brace and bit so lots of pressure. Have nasty feeling I am going to have to try and drill the head off!
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
If you go the drill route, and it sound like you have to, just be sure the drill is dead centre.
Often the screw slot throws starting a drill off track, so I have sometimes created a drill centre with a conical burr in a Dremel, and gone below the slot level to ensure a true centre. Doing this also allows some adjustment to the centre before letting rip with a drill bit.
Drill first with an undersized drill - say 3mm - to confirm the central position, and there shouldn't be any need to come up to a drill diameter of more than 1/4" or 6mm, which is the diameter of the screw shank.
During drilling, do some very frequent checks on the depth of drilling to make sure you aren't going too far.
Very satisfying when the head pops off and you are just looking at the end of the screw!!
Often the screw slot throws starting a drill off track, so I have sometimes created a drill centre with a conical burr in a Dremel, and gone below the slot level to ensure a true centre. Doing this also allows some adjustment to the centre before letting rip with a drill bit.
Drill first with an undersized drill - say 3mm - to confirm the central position, and there shouldn't be any need to come up to a drill diameter of more than 1/4" or 6mm, which is the diameter of the screw shank.
During drilling, do some very frequent checks on the depth of drilling to make sure you aren't going too far.
Very satisfying when the head pops off and you are just looking at the end of the screw!!
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
So have finally gone the drill route and got the head of the screw off OK. Ta for the advice re dremal. However the castings are still locked together so I guess I am going to have to cut through the gasket somehow to get a bit more leverage. Any other ideas?
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
you should now be able to place the pump housing in a soft vice and drive the two pieces apart using a 1/4" centre punch through the screw hole maybe
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Have tried using a punch on the shaft of the screw but am afraid I am just expanding the shaft of the screw and jamming it further. Have filled the recess with penetrating oil while I prepare for the next attack.
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
OK have had further attack and sucessfully split the housing, unfortunately with some damage to gasket but hopefully nothing that silicon will not cure. Next problem is how to remove drive shaft from lower unit. Is it just a press fit or is there any other fixing system? I have a nasty feeling it is rusted in!
-
- Posts: 2838
- Joined: Thu Aug 07, 2008 8:42 pm
- Location: Surrey
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Pour some oil down the square tube and then heat the bottom area just above gearbox.
Then stick a length of 5/16 or 8mm bar down the square tube and use it like a slide hammer, whilst holding the square tube. Keep the gearbox near the ground so it will not have far to fall.
Also tap the corners of the square drive tube where it is rusted on to the gearbox input shaft.
The plastic impellor may not survive.
Worst case if it is very bad you may need to grind it off.
H-A
Then stick a length of 5/16 or 8mm bar down the square tube and use it like a slide hammer, whilst holding the square tube. Keep the gearbox near the ground so it will not have far to fall.
Also tap the corners of the square drive tube where it is rusted on to the gearbox input shaft.
The plastic impellor may not survive.
Worst case if it is very bad you may need to grind it off.
H-A
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4972
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
There could be quite a lot of rusty sludge inside the drive shaft (up to 6 inches deep on a bad one) try to wash as much out as you can, before the penetrating oil dose.
I use a 6mm rod, any bigger & I find it just compacts the sludge before you hit the top of the pinion shaft, I ground a chisel shaped end onto the 6mm bar to help it force it's way through the sludge.
Hold the drive shaft in the vice, then hit the 6mm with a hammer, try not to bounce the gear box on the floor if this works, on 2 occasions I've had to grind the drive shaft off the pinion & replace the drive shaft.
Save the drive shaft they will cut down to fit a shorter motor, many long shaft ones have hardened ends & need cutting with the angle grinder.
I use a 6mm rod, any bigger & I find it just compacts the sludge before you hit the top of the pinion shaft, I ground a chisel shaped end onto the 6mm bar to help it force it's way through the sludge.
Hold the drive shaft in the vice, then hit the 6mm with a hammer, try not to bounce the gear box on the floor if this works, on 2 occasions I've had to grind the drive shaft off the pinion & replace the drive shaft.
Save the drive shaft they will cut down to fit a shorter motor, many long shaft ones have hardened ends & need cutting with the angle grinder.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
I have been looking at the cutaway pics on the site. I did not realise that the pinion shaft is inside the drive shaft so I presume just a square stub. How far does it go up into the drive shaft? I think I have about 3 inches of sludge in there. Also when you say you have had to grind the drive shaft off the pinion I dont understand how you get access to it to grind it off.
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4972
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Maximum about 30 mm inside drive shaft, from memory.
On one I had to pull out the pinion & bush, some pinion shafts stick out further than others depending on which gearbox.
On one I had to pull out the pinion & bush, some pinion shafts stick out further than others depending on which gearbox.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Have had another crack at it without success. Using a 6mm steel rod and a lump hammer and hitting it hard enough to bend the rod. I have put some more penetrating oil down it while I consider what to do next. How hard is it to pull the pinion shaft bush out and is it likely to break the pinion?
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Hi Mike
I'm renovating a forty plus and have just stripped the drive shaft off the pinion. I'm not sure what difference there is between your project and mine but I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them for you to see what it looks like stripped.
I'm renovating a forty plus and have just stripped the drive shaft off the pinion. I'm not sure what difference there is between your project and mine but I'll take a few pics tomorrow and post them for you to see what it looks like stripped.
- Charles uk
- Posts: 4972
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2008 4:38 pm
- Location: Maidenhead Berks UK
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Does it feel like your rod is hitting the top of the pinion or is it cushoned by the muck inside the drive shaft?
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
Re: 1968 FP Renovation Problems
Hi Charles
Definately hitting top of pinion as I removed muck with a hollow tube screwed into the muck. I could just put it back together but this would mean admitting defeat!!
Definately hitting top of pinion as I removed muck with a hollow tube screwed into the muck. I could just put it back together but this would mean admitting defeat!!