Forty/Featherweight, wont start!

[charlesp]

Okay let's just confirm that the fixing screw - the long one under the baseplate - should be pointed towards the front of the boat. Is it?

And have you tried the carb from the non-runner in the one that runs?

Having a similar motor to swap 'n change will make things a little easier.

[John1952]

As soon as the rain stops I will put the carb from the non running engine on the other featherweight that I have running with a bing carb!!
The rain has stopped!!
Swapped the carb onto the one that runs and she went first time, so its not the carb!
The fixing screw - the long one under the base-plate is sitting in about the 7 o'clock position with the tiller arm facing me.
I am not happy with the way the points adjust on this engine, the adjusting screw just doesn't feel right!! As I have said previously its wobbly as you turn it is that the way it should be?:?

[Hugz]

I could well be wrong as I've been playing with a few magnetos recently and not a seagull for a little while but there is a eccentric screw that when turned adjusts the points. (the wobbly one?) There is a larger screw that clamps it in position. As long as the points can be held tight in the correct position they will work. Is the base plate tight onto the crankcase? If it pivots a bit this upsets the point gap. Do you get any backfires etc. Failing that I'll be swapping the complete magneto including lead to test.

[40TPI]

Always worth searching a topic over past posts. Gap setting has been comprehensively covered in quite a few posts in the past.

http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/fo ... f=5&t=1517 for both Villiers Mk1 and Wipac Mk2



Peter

[billyboy]

and the large stainless steel screw on the underside was also screwed up tight! and in the 8o'clock position!

as the diagram shows its the plug lead hole that is supposed to be at 8 o'clock not the screw! thanks hugz

P.S..........the screw should be at 6 o'clock as has been earlier mentioned by charles

[charlesp]

So we have now proved that it's an ignition problem. As I said earlier ifr there's compression (and we're assuming there is) and fuel (which we have now proved) and a spark at the right time, then the engine will fire.

Therefore ignition. The only way to be sure about this is to make absolutely certain the baseplate is in the right place as a first step. Long screw under baseplate pointing towards the front of the boat, in the same direction as the tiller. That takes care of the 'at the right time' bit.

Then have a good read as suggested by 40TPI. You could also try swapping plugs and HT leads. If you can move the fault to the working motor you have it cracked.

I'm still confused as to whether this motor has ever run for you?

[philj]

Hi,
just a quick question for you, you said earilier that you tried all the suggestions given, did you splash some oil down the sparkplug hole and into the crank case?
If not give it a try. It sounds like the carb is not working on this engine as there is no crankcase seal around the bushes.
Regards
Philj

[John1952]

Yes Charlesp,
swapped plug,lead,and carb!
Like I said Before, she wants to go but just doesn't! Picked this motor up at the end of last season, didn't run it on the dinghy but ran it in the bin, cleaned up and put away until now

Philj,
I will splash some oil down the plug hole in the morning, another thing I have noticed,
there seems to be much more compression on this engine than my other featherweight!!

[philj]

Hi,
and put some into the crankcase via the carb inlet hole. This engine requires both compression and induction, think of it as an air pump. As the piston goes up it draws air/fuel into the crankcase. Then as the piston goes down it creates pressure in the crankcase which transfers the air/fuel into the combustion area, where the sparkplug is. Then under compression the air/fuel burns starting the cycle again. If the crankcase is dry and leaking air it will not work.
See what happens,
Regards
Philj

[mick r]

Try changing the condenser with a known working one, (It,s mounted below the points).

[charlesp]

So, to be absolutely clear, you have tried the carb, plug lead, and plug on the other motor which runs with all these bitd from the dead one?

If so we are making progress.

[John1952]

Another 1,000 pulls on the cord today, and she did fire up once for about 3 seconds, and then fell back into its comma, and I am now walking around with my left arm and shoulder bigger than the other!

Put two stroke oil in the plug hole and carb intake first thing this morning as suggested just in case seals were dry, possibly did help because she did fire up after the soaking!

Is It very difficult to take the top off and replace with another that I have spare in the shed?

Just like to say thanks to everyone for their suggestions, patients, and comments. I am not going to give up on it!
How do you get a big fat blue spark that everyone mentions? cuz I cant get one! Mine is a little white one (no pun intended)
Aah well back to work tomorrow for a rest.

[philj]

Hi,
sounds like you are getting well involved in seagulls now. Ok, to swap tops you need a spanner, screwdriver, a big hammer and a mate to help you.
Undo top nut a few turns only, have mate hold the motor up a bit off the floor by the flywheel, then whack the nut with a good full on blow. Best done on grass for when he lets it slip as you whack it! This will release the flywheel from the taper, now undo and remove nut and flywheel. Flick out the small key that is left behind in the shaft. Undo and remove big screw from under the ignition plate, wiggle, twist and pull off the plate. Now as Mr Haynes says, fitting is the reverse of removal, but don't use the hammer!
Best of luck,
Philj

[John1952]

Thanks Philj, have just been looking at it in the FAQs
The spare flywheel I have is of the villiers type, will that matter?
Before I do I will get hold of an attachment for my drill and see if the coil charges up and maybe get that big fat blue spark eh!

[billyboy]

villiers type, will that matter?

i am just about to try swapping ignition parts around myself. i think though that you have to match the flywheel with the base plate. in other words the mark 1 and mark 2 flywheels may be different but others on this forum will know for sure. cheers