Saving Old Seagulls

After rushing hither and thither and buzzing about like a blue-arsed fly for the last few weeks, I finally had some time to put the finishing touches to CPL. I put some 10:1 in the tank, and third pull and we were off to the races.

Just a big thank you to the forum for all your advice and ...

I ordered a new jet centrepiece from John but was curious to note that the new was designated M90 whereas the old was marked M7J. He postulated that it might have been from a lawn mower? Seems a bit odd....

It any event even though I recovered the old with judicial use of a dremmel burr (by hand ...

I suppose if I had a drill bit the exact size of the jet I could open it out?

I've just this minute done a very silly thing. After having just received my newly helicoiled carb body from a generous forumite, I was eager to put it back together again. The jet was very stiff going back in and I thought a few gentle taps would get it back down. A suitable wooden drift could not ...

I think the only way to stop things from leaking from a seagull is by not using it, it is quite normal for them to leak from there, actually even when you don't use them they leak. :roll:

After I'd rebuilt the WSPCL to (fro me) pristine condition and ran it in the tank for 15 minutes, it weeped ...

The manufacturers reccomendations were made with the best knowledge & materials of the day, but, that era that has long been surpassed, (along with whale oil, acetylene welding & egg beater drills). Oil technology has advanced hugely including, the use of dispersants & friction modifiers. Unlike ...

Would a long shaft not be too long for that boat?

HTS2000 aluminium brazing rods really do work very well. A MAPP gas or propane torch is all you need. I've used them to fill holes and to rejoin a broken propellor tip.

I used countersunk screws and little ss washers to get the profile low (and ground down the end of the thumbscrew shaft to suit) and I didn't tap all the way down to to bottom of the hole so that you could really jam the screw in.

I took the small screw-route - I drilled into the end of the thembscrew shaft and tapped with a 3mm tap. A ss 3mm screw with just enough length to jam into the bottom of the hole and leave a mm or two clear of the thumbscrew washer to allow it to turn freely - it does the trick without any whacking ...

Good job I didn't then.......why not?

Petrol unglued it, but there was a lot of rust (?) and other solid crud in there.....Chipped and scraped it off and took a wire brush on the drill for the bowl.

If I actually get this motor running, I'll feel like it's the resurrection of the dead ...

Oyster 49 wrote:The banjo bolt threads can be repaired by drilling oversize and helicoilling. I have a tap and helicoils. Happy to do it for you if you wish.

Yes please! e-mail sent

Keith.P wrote:Remove the little screw on the side.

Nice animation! that did the trick though I have an actuating arm between the float and the float needle - didn't seem to see that on the animation.

Thanks!

I'm just stripping down the carb on the CPL, and just as well! The float chamber is fixed in position with brown glue, presumably varnish from old, old fuel. Soak in solvent (petrol?) or boil in water?

Also, the threads in the casting for the banjo bolt are pretty much gone. I was thinking to try ...

Well, I got a new pair of ex WD rings from John that took a good soak in petrol to get the grease off. I took the block off the crankcase, removed the old rings and put in the new. He advised that these rings may need to be gapped, but they fitted the bottom of the bore well enough so I just put ...