Hi I've just bought a Featherweight.
The serial number is FS 337 FF0, which according to all the info I've seen would make it manufactured in June 1980, which is outside the date range usually quoted for a FS code. It looks as though the serial number originally ended in 00 (two zeroes) but has been mostly ground or filed off. A mistake? A re-used casting? Any ideas?
If it is 1980 can I assume that I should use a 25:1 mixture, and that the gear oil is 90 rather than 140?
Many thanks
Peter
New member
Moderators: John@sos, charlesp, Charles uk, RickUK, Petergalileo
Yes the number you quote does seem out of range, albeit by only one year.
Before going any further, perhaps you could tell us a bit more about the modification to the serial. Which bit may have had the two zeroes?
Unless it's a model with oil seals stick to the 140 grade oil in the gearbox. If the motor is 1980 then 25: should be OK.
Does it have electronic ignition? Or a Bing carb?
Before going any further, perhaps you could tell us a bit more about the modification to the serial. Which bit may have had the two zeroes?
Unless it's a model with oil seals stick to the 140 grade oil in the gearbox. If the motor is 1980 then 25: should be OK.
Does it have electronic ignition? Or a Bing carb?
Villiers carb I think. Here's some photos:
I should have looked at this forum before buying; I now realise that a brass tank is much more desirable <sigh> but at least this one isn't leaking (yet).
Note the broken throttle lever - is the top portion available separately? (Somehow I doubt it...) The lever has also been repositioned I think.
Cheers
Peter
I should have looked at this forum before buying; I now realise that a brass tank is much more desirable <sigh> but at least this one isn't leaking (yet).
Note the broken throttle lever - is the top portion available separately? (Somehow I doubt it...) The lever has also been repositioned I think.
Cheers
Peter
The serial is a bit of a mystery, looks like it's been modified by punching the metal flat.
Nonetheless it's a nice motor.
I'm hoping someone else will leap in here, I have the feeling it's later than 1980, help anyone? That's despite the 'FS' serial.
Don't knock the steel tank. Your example looks to be in very good condition, and after all, the steel ones don't buckle quite as easily as the brass ones - have a look at the number of people here that want to know how to get them back to undented condition!
I think you'll have to find a new throttle lever, I thoroughly recommend you give John a ring - number at top of page.
Nonetheless it's a nice motor.
I'm hoping someone else will leap in here, I have the feeling it's later than 1980, help anyone? That's despite the 'FS' serial.
Don't knock the steel tank. Your example looks to be in very good condition, and after all, the steel ones don't buckle quite as easily as the brass ones - have a look at the number of people here that want to know how to get them back to undented condition!
I think you'll have to find a new throttle lever, I thoroughly recommend you give John a ring - number at top of page.
Just a thought, maybe someone at the factory "double stamped" the double o,ground out there mistake then re-stamped the last 0.
Looks a nice clean motor apart from that.I've just treated my steel tanked 40+ with some tank seal from "villearsparts" hopefully will prevent internal corrision
Looks a nice clean motor apart from that.I've just treated my steel tanked 40+ with some tank seal from "villearsparts" hopefully will prevent internal corrision
regards paul
Serial numbers!
I bet this is a 1980 model. They often would build batches of motors ans sell them as specials, using older parts. In this case the Wipac points ignition, when by 1980, the electronic CD ignition was the norm. Bet they got confused with the number and hammered it out. would not be the first time.
Could not quite see the gearbox to check, but if it has a small screw just above the top cap screw, to secure the bevel gear, it is a sealed box using 90 grade. Check the oil though, if it is emulsified, use 140 till you replace the seals!
The prop looks right for the sealed box. nice clean motor. look after the tank and it will last!
John
Could not quite see the gearbox to check, but if it has a small screw just above the top cap screw, to secure the bevel gear, it is a sealed box using 90 grade. Check the oil though, if it is emulsified, use 140 till you replace the seals!
The prop looks right for the sealed box. nice clean motor. look after the tank and it will last!
John
Just an idea - the 'Owners Spares Book' says (on page 9) with regard to the 'Mark II (Wipac) Ignition Assembly':
Motors fitted with the Mark II Ignition System have the following code lettering:
FORTY FEATHERWEIGHT F, GF and FS
[etc]
So maybe they thought they should code the motor as an FS for this reason. Or a re-used top half?
Here's a shot of the gearbox:
I'm very grateful for the good advice and help from everyone.
Many thanks
Peter
Motors fitted with the Mark II Ignition System have the following code lettering:
FORTY FEATHERWEIGHT F, GF and FS
[etc]
So maybe they thought they should code the motor as an FS for this reason. Or a re-used top half?
Here's a shot of the gearbox:
I'm very grateful for the good advice and help from everyone.
Many thanks
Peter
FS
Hello Peter,
if they fitted the electronic ignition it would have been SEF, standing for Sealed Gearbox, Electronic ignition, Featherweight.
Certainly you have confirmed with that pic that it has the extra screw, so it is the 90 grade sealed gearbox.
Bet it is one of a batch sold at the gate.
Seagull would make 250 for special order export and have a few spares to sell at the gate. Met a few owners who have these specials, nothing wrong with them, they just throw us into confusion with the numbers, wonder if they thought about that at the time and had a laugh about us trying to figure it out ...
Regards,
John
if they fitted the electronic ignition it would have been SEF, standing for Sealed Gearbox, Electronic ignition, Featherweight.
Certainly you have confirmed with that pic that it has the extra screw, so it is the 90 grade sealed gearbox.
Bet it is one of a batch sold at the gate.
Seagull would make 250 for special order export and have a few spares to sell at the gate. Met a few owners who have these specials, nothing wrong with them, they just throw us into confusion with the numbers, wonder if they thought about that at the time and had a laugh about us trying to figure it out ...
Regards,
John
Ha ha, yes I have done a fair bit of family history research in the past and have often wondered if long-gone ancestors were trying to confuse things on purpose...
Anyway finally got the motor running today in a tank. Wouldn't start yesterday, checked and cleaned the plug and points, did the 'spin with the drill' thing, then read leter in the evening that you had to hold the 'tickler' down until petrol flowed from the little hole in the carb body (I was just pressing it a couple of times).
So tried that today and no flow. Closed the tap and took off the carb end of the fuel pipe, some reddish stuff came out, briefly opened the fuel tap to flush the pipe, connected back up. Now it would flood so tried starting again and whoomph! Quite a bit of smoke (it is a no. 2 needle so 25:1), and a good stream of water being pumped. Hoorah!
Noticed when running that the magneto base plate was jittering around a bit, and there was a small amount of oil leaking from where it joins to the drive tube. Tightened the screw that is underneath the plate and that seems to have taken the play out - is this normal? Haven't run it since so I don't know if that has cured the leaking.
Checked the gearbox oil and it is cappuchino like (wouldn't want to drink it though), so will need to stick with 140. Are there instructions anywhere on how to replace the oil seals?
Many thanks
Peter
Anyway finally got the motor running today in a tank. Wouldn't start yesterday, checked and cleaned the plug and points, did the 'spin with the drill' thing, then read leter in the evening that you had to hold the 'tickler' down until petrol flowed from the little hole in the carb body (I was just pressing it a couple of times).
So tried that today and no flow. Closed the tap and took off the carb end of the fuel pipe, some reddish stuff came out, briefly opened the fuel tap to flush the pipe, connected back up. Now it would flood so tried starting again and whoomph! Quite a bit of smoke (it is a no. 2 needle so 25:1), and a good stream of water being pumped. Hoorah!
Noticed when running that the magneto base plate was jittering around a bit, and there was a small amount of oil leaking from where it joins to the drive tube. Tightened the screw that is underneath the plate and that seems to have taken the play out - is this normal? Haven't run it since so I don't know if that has cured the leaking.
Checked the gearbox oil and it is cappuchino like (wouldn't want to drink it though), so will need to stick with 140. Are there instructions anywhere on how to replace the oil seals?
Many thanks
Peter
In view of what you found I think you should flush out the tank, clean the filter on the fuel tap and also clean the filter at the carb on the banjo bolt if you have not already done so.
The tickler confirms that you have fuel flow and with experience you will be able to feel the float as it rises
The screw under the magneto base plate is what holds it in position and it also locates in a "dimple" to set the timing correctly. If it has been run a lot jittering about then it may have caused a bit of wear. Now that you have tightened it up it might be a good idea to check and reset the points assuming it's got points.
Any oil in that area must be coming from the top crankshaft bearing, but if it starts easily and runs OK I guess it is OK.
The tickler confirms that you have fuel flow and with experience you will be able to feel the float as it rises
The screw under the magneto base plate is what holds it in position and it also locates in a "dimple" to set the timing correctly. If it has been run a lot jittering about then it may have caused a bit of wear. Now that you have tightened it up it might be a good idea to check and reset the points assuming it's got points.
Any oil in that area must be coming from the top crankshaft bearing, but if it starts easily and runs OK I guess it is OK.