Saving Old Seagulls

Roy

With regards to pinion gears for "barge pusher" gearboxes.
The pinion gear for these bigger boxes will be much longer in length compared to the more common 2.5 to 1 ratio boxes. They won't be a direct swap and number of teeth on gears will be different too. 4:1 ratio for the big box and 2:5 to 1 for the common box. 4:1 propeller is BIG. REALLY BIG at nearly 13 inches thereabouts when you compare it to a common 102 prop at 9 inches. Clutch fork will be a longer size too.
I might have a spare barge pusher box in my spares if you need one.

RE your powerhead, exactly as H-A mentions.
Many of these seagull engines will respond very well after a good clean up. Out with the spanners. All fairly straight forward stuff.

Horsley-Anarak wrote:

african imp wrote:
Looking at the block I see two bolt heads, how do I access the other two please?

Remove flywheel and magneto base and you will find the other 2 nut.

Pull the piston out and clean the bore, I would have done this first, so that I did not damage the bore more.

H-A

Thanks, I am busy with a friends Forty motor right now, I will next see about opening the seized 102 motor using your advice

Horsley-Anarak wrote:

african imp wrote:
Looking at the block I see two bolt heads, how do I access the other two please?

Remove flywheel and magneto base and you will find the other 2 nut.

Pull the piston out and clean the bore, I would have done this first, so that I did not damage the bore more.

H-A

Thanks, I will give that a try !

Charles uk wrote:Bent crankshaft, cracked bore.

This restoration will require the use of a spanner.

Thanks on the advice.

Will John at SOS have another con rod for me I wonder?

Not required, the one in the motor looks good but I cannot move the piston any further down the bore.

With the gasket pulled out of the way the block can be viewed, I see no sign of a crack, the piston has stuck though and I cannot move it further out of the bore.

Some heat on the block may be required?

This motor did not need cleaning, the alloy and the black paint on the block look really good.

Whats, next, this is my first Seagull piston removal ( attempt )

Lubrication and push back in might be an issue with rings.

Tight is tight, the oil filter removal tool did nothing.

Look in the inlet port, it might be a broken ring caught in there, or an upside down piston, it might unlock with a small screwdriver.

It looks like you might get the wrist pin out & separate the crank from the cylinder.

You will damage it if you get heavy handed!

tambikeboy wrote:Lubrication and push back in might be an issue with rings.

I have the motor the correct way up and filled with a thin oil mix, it can stay that way over night, then I will push the piston back up and see what happens when I try to push it back down.

I used some soft Obeche wood to knock it this way down and with a one pound copper faced hammer.

Moving the piston back in required the use of a large G clamp, even then it was tight, it slackened off as the piston reached the top.

I may be able to fashion a press tool using the thread in the plug hole?

The assembly i.s now back in the vice and I have used the soft obeche wood tool to knock the piston back down.

It will be possible to place a protection pad down the exhaust and on to the top of the piston to prevent damage?

Charles uk wrote:Look in the inlet port, it might be a broken ring caught in there, or an upside down piston, it might unlock with a small screwdriver.

It looks like you might get the wrist pin out & separate the crank from the cylinder.

You will damage it if you get heavy handed!

If I could remove the pin in the piston I would but the piston needs to come out another 3mm to allow me to do that.

I prodded up the exhaust but felt nothing stuck in there.

I have removed the piston, it was not any easy job, I will post the pictures in the morning

It was clear to me that only a controled physical force would move the piston, banging the top of the piston with a rod and a hammer would break the piston?

I used a piece of plywood with a socket hole in it as the cushion pad on top of the piston, then a 13mm 316 stainless steel rod as the pressing tool, the G clamp was the required pressure I needed.

It still took a fair amount of winding up the G clamp, far more than I expected?

Then right at the end of the process out it popped, the line that was tied around the con rod stopped the piston assembly from falling on the floor.

The rings are the problem, I still need to remove them and test the bare piston on the bore, a spare piston I have slides in easy enough.

I had worried that the bore was a taper? wedge shaped, open at the top anc closed at the bottom, how I could not work out?

The spare piston I have slides in with ease, so I guess I am ok?

The small plywood push pad worked a treat !


I used a flat bit drill 15mm in size and removed a 3mm section of the ply to give me a socket that the stainless steel push rod would locate in.