Saving Old Seagulls

built an arrangement with old casing+ crank from century, then attached wipac baseplate + flywheel.

Then attached electric drill to spin it up.

Basically, even after spinning it a considerable amount, there is "some" voltage in the lead. enough to give a small electric shock (which increases as you speed up spinning the flywheel, but insufficient to actually create a spark. (that's a good one for Health and Safety....)

The plug lead/cap is one that does actually work on another engine. the plug also is a good plug, yet there just does'nt seem to be enough energy created by the magneto etc to actually create a spark at the spark plug.

everything looks fine, and the points appear okay, so why is there not enough to create a spark?

Note, in order to get my Silver Century to run I fitted an older Villiers, (from a running century) and it runs great.

It is just I would like to get this Wipac ignition also working, then I have enough bits that actually work to build up the other century.

Have you cleaned the inside of the flywheel

Assuming that the points are good and correctly gapped there two possible causes I would have thought

Either the magnets in the flywheel have deteriorated to the point that the "spinning with an electric drill" trick won't work, or the the Wipac unit is faulty. If it had been a Villiers unit I would have suggested trying a new condenser!

However you only say the points appear OK. Take them out grind out any imperfections with an oilstone. Thoroughly clean them, refit them and reset the gap. Look for any sources of resistance.

Couldn't get my silver century giving decent spark, used wife's hairdryer on ignition coil away it went, probably worth a try. phil

I,ve just looked in the shed and have got a 2 wipac points type coils.
one looks well used, and the other looks as if never used, (but probably has).

PM me if you want to try another coil, or want some resistance readings.

used wife's hairdryer on ignition coil away it went, probably worth a try

The suggestion in the FAQs is to dry if for a week in the airing cupboard or alternatively in an oven at a low setting (presumably for a much shorter period than a week though) and to re-varnish it afterwards. However that is for Villiers coil. Its not really applicable to the sealed Wipac unit is it?

Okay,

i must also state that the "original" engine apparently never used to run right........which is maybe why it was abandoned in the shed where I found it....apparently it was a bad starter and would never keep running....

okay, I admit, I have replaced the cracked block.... and replaced the broken crankcase.... and replaced the ignition with my other villers.... and after that it ran fine... (well, actually after I stripped the Amal carb and cleaned out all the sand...) in fact, I took it out in a gale across the harbour and back, and ran lovely. (even after a wave went straight over the top....)

Oh, and I also cut the driveshaft and exhaust tube down to create a short shaft + 1 inch....

so actually, the only truly "original" part is the lower drive casing...and the fuel tank.

anyway, back to the Wipac......

If we are thinking there is actually something that is at fault, and needs replacing, then I might as well dump it and obtain another Villiers....

I will clean and check the points and then test again. (as mentioned above)

I have "obtained" another complete wipac basplate/flywheel etc from another engine, and again no spark.

though, from this other scrap engine I have now made a bench test rig if crank and crankcase only, so as to be used purely for spinning up the flywheel.

I will now attempt again to get this other Wipac ignition to create a spark.

Sacrilege!

villiers I think is the better ignition.