Roys second 102 series build

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african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

tambikeboy wrote:I do still need the 102 drive shaft and gear shift rod but they are not that easy to post, I have the dimensions now and will post those tomorrow.
Roy why not get 2 4inch sections of drive shaft and weld round rod in between them at whatever lenth you require how about getting all your bitties shipped via Fred he has a UK address them only half the shipping bill is yours speak nice to him you never know buy him a cuppa and a bakewell tart might work in your favour
I had thought of using the rusty 170mm length of drive tube that I have and doing exactly as your suggesting, then I just need to source the water pump impellor, Fred has those I think?
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Charles uk
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Charles uk »

Cast aluminium is less brittle after annealing.

And make sure the pinion bush locating screw is doing it's job properly & the crown wheel thrust washer is in place!
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
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fleetingcontact
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by fleetingcontact »

Okey doke I'll get a price for the postage.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

Charles uk wrote:Cast aluminium is less brittle after annealing.

And make sure the pinion bush locating screw is doing it's job properly & the crown wheel thrust washer is in place!

Thanks,


I am now moving back to what I assume is the correct sized gear box for the 102 series motor?

The reason being is the one spare propellor that I have will fit that gear box.

The crown wheel I have has 35 teath, the pinion is missing, the shaft is too short but a new and longer one can be made locally.

What should the crown wheel and pinion be in respect of teeth?
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Charles uk
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Charles uk »

Seagull 102's were only fitted with 12:48 & 12:30 lower units.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

Charles uk wrote:Seagull 102's were only fitted with 12:48 & 12:30 lower units.
Thanks, I had better start counting whats in stock !

I have made a good start, there is a 30 teeth crown wheel here, the prop I have is a five blade and is around eleven inches in diameter and marked CFC5 ( that F looks like a 1 but I think its an F? )

There is no pinion in the gear box down leg, are they all 12 teeth? If so I have another gear box leg and I can remove the pinion gear from that?

I have also found a suitable shaft long enough to take the clutch fork to disengage the prop, what I do not have is the correct clutch fork, check the picture.

I have the large brass washer, I may or may not have that large thick washer pinned to the shaft ??

None found :cry:

Still progress on the project has been made !!
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Charles uk
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Charles uk »

Seagull never made a 3.5:1 box with a clutch.

That prop might read CPC 5 that's for a 4:1 clutched box.

If you bought yourself a 102 & a century/40 parts books, it might save you a lot of typing.
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

Charles uk wrote:Seagull never made a 3.5:1 box with a clutch.

That prop might read CPC 5 that's for a 4:1 clutched box.

If you bought yourself a 102 & a century/40 parts books, it might save you a lot of typing.
This one? it was gifted to me on last Monday, it is dated February 1980 and the inside pages are in mint condition :P

I do refer to John Williams workshop manual and on a regular basis but there is so much to know about the British Seagull that the best way to find things out is often via this forum, my thanks to those who supply the information.
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Last edited by african imp on Thu Feb 28, 2019 4:24 pm, edited 1 time in total.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

Charles uk wrote:Seagull never made a 3.5:1 box with a clutch.

That prop might read CPC 5 that's for a 4:1 clutched box.

If you bought yourself a 102 & a century/40 parts books, it might save you a lot of typing.

Will my CPC5 five blade propellor work with the 102 series motor I have built up? There is a clutch function, I just need the bronze fork and the item # 5 Coller Inside Propellor, plus the correct 12 teeth pinion, the one I have found in another gear box has 10 teeth only.
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Charles uk
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by Charles uk »

Are you missing the pinion bush as well?
Make it idiot proof and someone will make a better idiot.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

Charles uk wrote:Are you missing the pinion bush as well?
I will check in the morning as the leg is in the garage,

The bush is in place, looks ok,was there a washer on the lower end of the bush? If the bush is acceptable it will just be the pinion with 12 teeth I am short of, plus what ever washers may be required ?
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Last edited by african imp on Fri Mar 01, 2019 2:55 pm, edited 3 times in total.
blokewithaboat
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by blokewithaboat »

So from the looks of things we're still going for the "bitsa" theme with this are we?

The plus gearbox in your pics (correct me if i'm wrong) was normally fitted on square block century type seagulls wasn't it? Not for a 102 but i'm sure it will fit together with very little fuss. Bigger question is do you have the correct pump housing to fit this gearbox? I'm not sure they're the same as the other one you have. You'll need to double check this Roy.

I reckon i have a spare pinion i removed from a gearbox somewhere in a box that will fit this bigger gearbox . Do you have the clutch fork for this gearbox Roy? I have a couple going spare if you don't.

Looking at the pics of your transom mounting i think you've got the thrust block the correct way around. Do you have the g clamps to go with it?


Would it help any if i told you what i have as spares?

Tillers (most types and lengths) tiller grip handles , thumb throttles (most types), complete gearboxes for 40's/century's direct drive-- a few 102 boxes direct and clutched , pump housings for a few different types, a few props of various sizes and specs, drive shafts (some rusty and some not so rusty in various lengths) clutch rods (various lengths and specs) odds and ends from all sorts of different gearboxes along with gear sets and good second hand pinions from many different gearbox types , clutch forks (different types and specs) nuts bolts washers screws springs castellated nuts , good second hand pump housing gaskets for many, century/102 exhaust clamps/straps, 102 fuel tank straps (mostly a little rusty but serviceable) and probably a bit more in various other boxes etc. etc. etc. Too much stuff that i'm hardly ever likely to use unless it's something to do with 102's or i decide to build another bitsa.

What do you need Roy?
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

blokewithaboat wrote:So from the looks of things we're still going for the "bitsa" theme with this are we?

The plus gearbox in your pics (correct me if i'm wrong) was normally fitted on square block century type seagulls wasn't it? Not for a 102 but i'm sure it will fit together with very little fuss. Bigger question is do you have the correct pump housing to fit this gearbox? I'm not sure they're the same as the other one you have. You'll need to double check this Roy.

I reckon i have a spare pinion i removed from a gearbox somewhere in a box that will fit this bigger gearbox . Do you have the clutch fork for this gearbox Roy? I have a couple going spare if you don't.

Looking at the pics of your transom mounting i think you've got the thrust block the correct way around. Do you have the g clamps to go with it?


Would it help any if i told you what i have as spares?

Tillers (most types and lengths) tiller grip handles , thumb throttles (most types), complete gearboxes for 40's/century's direct drive-- a few 102 boxes direct and clutched , pump housings for a few different types, a few props of various sizes and specs, drive shafts (some rusty and some not so rusty in various lengths) clutch rods (various lengths and specs) odds and ends from all sorts of different gearboxes along with gear sets and good second hand pinions from many different gearbox types , clutch forks (different types and specs) nuts bolts washers screws springs castellated nuts , good second hand pump housing gaskets for many, century/102 exhaust clamps/straps, 102 fuel tank straps (mostly a little rusty but serviceable) and probably a bit more in various other boxes etc. etc. etc. Too much stuff that i'm hardly ever likely to use unless it's something to do with 102's or i decide to build another bitsa.

What do you need Roy?
Thanks on your posting and details.


The pinion and related washers, plus the thick washer and pin for the prop shaft would be very helpful.

I do not have the required clucth fork or the thick round washer and the locating pin that goes through the propellor shaft.

I will check on the water pump housing and get back to you, I suspect those that I have are all the smaller version ?

The picture is of another motor that I have, its original and complete.
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Last edited by african imp on Fri Mar 01, 2019 8:41 am, edited 2 times in total.
african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

After the advice given yesterday I now have the correct plastic support on the engine mount bracket for the chrome drive tube, mine is a little broken but it works.
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african imp
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Re: Roys second 102 series build

Post by african imp »

I have made a discovery, the water pump housing on the motor now is for the larger pump impellor but the screw holes are too far apart for the gear box I have decided to use.

The screw hole centers are 3 3/4" on the water pump housing, I need 3 9/16" so right now the search starts for the correct water pump housing.
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Last edited by african imp on Fri Mar 01, 2019 8:30 am, edited 1 time in total.
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