Saving Old Seagulls

Hello all members.

I have a problem opening the gearbox.

I got the two screws out easily. But thecover does not move a bit. I even tried hitting it with a log and hammer. Not good.

Is there something i have missed or justneed to apply more force (and maybe heat the seal).

The sludge coming out of the box looks like capucchino pudding and I want to clean and replace it before running the engine.

Motor itself looks like it will start easily.

Just replaced all the goo that got out from the filling hole. Cleaned the carb quickly and washed the gastank. Gastank had its own type of goo, green goo. This motor had been sitting around for 15 years with that gas in tank.

Also new plug in(old one was sparking so I can keep it as a spare) an it runs in dustbin. Bit smoky and boooey, but I hope it gets better after good cleaning and adjustment for the carburetor.

Still the gearbox stays shut...

The oil in the gearbox looks like capucchino once used that is quite normal, but it is still a good idea to clean it out and replace the oil with SAE 140 or SAE 90.
Do not over fill the gear box! only fill it to the point where oil will cone out the filler hole when the engine is standing up.
click on the pic to make it bigger
use a punch to remove the pin ( part 6) that secures the collar to the shaft.
Remove the two screws (part 16) that hold on the cap.
ten use a brass hammer or block of wood and hammer to gently tap the shaft to dislodge the end cap.
Do NOT LOSE the thrust washer (part 12)

You may need to get or make a new paper gasket (part 14) If you don't rip it then it should be ok to reuse.

Thank you. I'm going back to the warehouse after a few weeks and try that. I also need to get the smoking under control before test run at the lake.

The smoking will sort itself out with use. mix up some fresh 10:1 and you should be Ok.

Got it running again. The carburetor had a cracked body and was a leaky mess. I got "new" one from ebay that had broken float and was missing the fuelfilter ring, combining these two I got one properly working carburetor. After cleaning all the gunk from the "new" parts and installing the carburetor my motor started happily on the first pull!

These carburetors have diffirent airinlets, old one has just a hole and the "new" one has a steel mesh.

Could someone identify how much original parts there is left with this motor.

More photos.

And the "new" carburetor

Looks good glad you got it going.

Testrun completed, it was running nicely for something thats over 60 years old.

I just need to make some collar to adjust the motor depth. It was running too deep and stugling a bit.

Is there a good way to prevent the needle adjusting screw in the carburetor from unsrewing itself while running? I ran the motor for half an hour at a lake and had to stop half way to readjust the screw. It had gone up about 3 full turns in that time. Sliwly the motor started smoking more and lost power untill it stalled while running upwind. After readjusting it was again running happily.

Its running

great that they can put a smile on your face, perfect.

There should be a small spring underneath the head of the needle to stop it unscrewing, whilst allowing it to centralise in the jet tube - someone off the Forum or British Seagull will be able to send you one. Regret I don't have any Villiers carbs.

Correct basic setting is to have the top of the needle screw flush with the top of the emulsion slide.

The correct inlet is the one with a hole - the one with a mesh was fitted to lawnmowers of the period. Sounds like the replacement one wasn't such a bargain!

I'm using the original emulsion slide and needle. The new one has a slanted bottom and the old one is straight. Maybe I can change the inlet if I can get it off in one piece

There is a spring present but it might have lost its tension. I'll try if the other carbs spring fits, thanks for the tip.

My wife and (almost) 2 years old daughter were in that boat too, but this time the motor gave the smile.