It's (Almost) Alive!!!
Posted: Sat Apr 22, 2017 9:36 pm
Hey again y'all! Been ages, upon ages since my last visit. (Right about the time some wannabe good Samaritan sank my lovely first-pull-start 40+.) Anyways, After a full disassembly and cleaning, and oiling and all that, I tried to get her to start. Wouldn't happen.Tried for weeks. Dried the beastie in the sun day after day, after day, thinking that mayhap it had got water inside the magneto (Wipac MK2) or something, and that it would dry out and be all good again. Didn't really think that was the problem, just a hope that it would help. Nope!
It does have spark. A super bright hot spark when the end of the HT lead is held near the block, but a really weak spark in the plug gap when holding the plug against the block. Weird! I did take apart the HT lead, cut about a quarter inch off each end to get to clean and dry non-salty wire, and put it back together. So I don't think the HT lead is the problem. (I don't think it is, but???)
Now, I've been playing with the Seagull again, for the first time in over a year, and have gone through all the system to see what the problem could possibly be. The only thing I can think of is my points gap. They are gapped to 0.020" (0.503mm) but I don't know if they are supposed to gapped at that distance exactly at top dead center, or just some magical distance before top dead center. I've played with the gap a bit, and now it almost starts.
I don't want to horrify anyone, but I'm using a drill to spin the flywheel to try and start it!
Works great, and honestly, has absolutely no effect on how tight the cap nut gets. It's as easy to remove the nut after a minute of spinning, as it was before I used the drill on it. And it saves me a sore shoulder from having to pull the rope a few hundred times a day.
So anyways, my question for you Seagull Guru's is; how do I know where on the stroke to set the gap? Absolute top dead center, or just before? And if just before, how do I know how far? And one other problem I have, is that I can't get the flywheel off. I can adjust the points through one of the large square holes in the flywheel; is that okay? or does the flywheel have to be rotated further back or forward to set the points properly? ie; do I really nead to remove the flywheel?
Thanks y'all!
Cheers!
It does have spark. A super bright hot spark when the end of the HT lead is held near the block, but a really weak spark in the plug gap when holding the plug against the block. Weird! I did take apart the HT lead, cut about a quarter inch off each end to get to clean and dry non-salty wire, and put it back together. So I don't think the HT lead is the problem. (I don't think it is, but???)
Now, I've been playing with the Seagull again, for the first time in over a year, and have gone through all the system to see what the problem could possibly be. The only thing I can think of is my points gap. They are gapped to 0.020" (0.503mm) but I don't know if they are supposed to gapped at that distance exactly at top dead center, or just some magical distance before top dead center. I've played with the gap a bit, and now it almost starts.
I don't want to horrify anyone, but I'm using a drill to spin the flywheel to try and start it!


So anyways, my question for you Seagull Guru's is; how do I know where on the stroke to set the gap? Absolute top dead center, or just before? And if just before, how do I know how far? And one other problem I have, is that I can't get the flywheel off. I can adjust the points through one of the large square holes in the flywheel; is that okay? or does the flywheel have to be rotated further back or forward to set the points properly? ie; do I really nead to remove the flywheel?
Thanks y'all!
Cheers!