SeaBee 3 questions / manual required

[ceebee]

Hello all,

I've joined in the hope of gaining some knowledge from those of you who have one of these.

It's a SeaBee Mk.1 by the looks of it, so would place it between 1957 and 1961. I have no spark at the moment, so wanting to whip the fan / flywheel off. From what I've read up so far, you can apparently see the points through the flywheel? I can't, the fan is solid. Is this just a cover on top of the actual flywheel then?

I've also noticed some handy stampings on the fan. There is an arrow that seems to line up with the centre of the barrel when the piston is at TDC. There's also a couple more further round so would presume these are for timing, but how can I do that when I can't even see the points? I have read the warnings about marking up before you whip the flywheel of as it's not keyed (bah).

Considering the age of this little beaut it's in amazing condition. Everything is there, recoil is a bit sticky on the return but I'll strip, clean and lube that. Carb looks like it was make last week, and the slide looks brand new! From a quick torch shine down the plug hole there's no scoring on the cylinder walls either.

Thanks in advance

[Keith.P]

There is a small inspection cover on the flywheel, probably painted over most times, but it is a very small inspection hole, so to do good inspection of the ignition system, I would remove the flywheel, but sometimes it's not all that easy to remove, plus the flywheel can be put out of shape quite easy.

[ceebee]

Thanks Keith. I've just seen an ebay add for a Seabee flywheel and it seems the fan is separate - although confusingly with the American Seabee called the same I'm not sure if it's from one of those or the UK JAP ones:

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Seabee-2-Flyw ... 1500129806

Does the Seabee3 flywheel looks similar please?

[Keith.P]

If its a Jap Seabee, then no thats not the flywheel for it.
This type of flywheel, a one piece unit.

[ceebee]

Thanks Keith. This is mine, I have the recoil starter "bobbin" removed now too, and the only holes I can make out properly are the 3 x tapped holes for the bobbin mounting. Looks like I'll fashion a holding tool to fit the two circular indentations so I can get the nut off, as I don't fancy snapping the fins off by wedging a wump of wood in them.

I'm amazed in these days of internet everything that there isn't much out there at all for these motors. I may document what I'm doing and host it somewhere to assist others.

[Keith.P]

Not much info on them I know, even though they are a common motor, yours looks to be one of the older ones, as they remade this model later on.
Now this is just from memory, as I have not touched the flywheel in years, look very closely at your picture of the flywheel, on the inside edge of the fins the paint is cracked, that should be the edge of the cover that's been painted over, have a close look to see it I maybe right.
I have one Seabee and another motor that has the same engine, but is not a Seabee.
I also have a Seabee 3 manual, but its of little to no use, its pretty basic.
You may find my Seabee in this lot. http://theoutboardshed.com/pictures.html

[ceebee]

Thanks again Keith.

Before I read this it was actually my missus who noticed the two tabs on the inspection cover, a slight tap with the adjusting stick and there we are! I thought it was a casting flaw to be honest.

Is there anything in the manual you have regarding setting the timing please?

As you can see in the shots below, there's an arrow stamped in the flywheel edge that seems to align to the notch on the centreline of the barrel when the piston is at TDC. I'm guessing the big backplate screws slacken off to rotate the stator and alter the timing?

I see from the photo of yours with the blue leg it has the kingpin style pivot rather than the leg clamp style. Is that one later? I notice in the clip from 1960 in the Pathe archive their Sea Bee has the same kingpin style pivot too.

What I was surprised to see was a solid plastic looking coil - something of this age I would have expected a wrapped winding style coil. I wonder if that's standard or has been replaced / retrofitted at some point.

This is all new to me so I'm like a kid in a sweet shop - apologies for all the questions!

[Keith.P]

The one with the blue leg is a Seabee Super, don't quote me on that, some parts will interchange.
Timing is pretty basic, piston at TDC, line up the mark on the flywheel, lock down and set points around .018 to .020" and the spark plug gap is 0.25".
The manual doesn't even tell you the points setting, its basic, but if you still would like a copy, PM me you email.

[ceebee]

Ah, that's fantastic - thank you!

Just out of sheer curiosity I'd love a copy of the manual please - I'll PM you my email.

[ceebee]

Not having much luck getting a spark. Set the points, cleaned and gapped the plug, turned it over with a drill for a good five minutes and nothing. I do however get a minute spark if I remove the suppressor cap and hold the HT lead conductor to an earth.

Is this one of those mags that need re exciting using a battery like some harleys do?

[ceebee]

Well bu**er me, I have a spark!

Seems it wanted the points cleaning and gapping a fourth time, then all of a sudden hey presto.

[Keith.P]

Well that's half the battle over with, whats next, fuel system?
Don't forget its a water cooled motor, so run it in water, well ok that's not entirely true, the exhaust leg is water cooled believe it or not, it helps a little to stop the paintwork from frying.

[ceebee]

Hi Keith,

I'd already stripped and cleaned the carb. I'm amazed how little wear it shows, the slide and needle look brand new.

Anyway, after a good dose of 20:1 using fully synthetic oil I used to use in my GasGas race bike and a bit of cranking with the drill on the flywheel nut she lives! It revs up and down nicely and ticks over with a nice put put. Probably due to the top quality oil I was surprised to see almost zero smoke once warmed up for such an old mix ratio. My bike ran 50:1.

I'd done all this the week before but just got back from holiday in France.

Next job is re grease the gearbox. Luckily I have some castrol marine blue grease to hand which I used to use in my enduro bike's wheel bearings as they were underwater a lot of the time.

After that and a full soak test running a full tank of fresh fuel through in the bucket it will be time for her maiden voyage on the Trent.

Once happy I'm handing the tank, cowl and prop to a very good mate of mine for a respray in old English white. My partners Dad is a signwriter so he's going to re add the bee logo for me once repainted, done by brush as it used to be!

[Keith.P]

Don't forget to post some pictures up when you are finished, especially the logo, I have seen some variations in the logo, so would be nice to see what you go with.

I'd already stripped and cleaned the carb

You can also do this with your cloths on.

[ceebee]

Yesterday I stripped, cleaned and lubed the recoil which was sticking, oiled the throttle cable and greased the throttle linkage. All back together and run in a wheelie bin of water. Starts and runs absolutely spot on, did a plug chop after half an hour's running and it's a lovely biscuit brown as it should be.

I went to clean the bevel drive and re-grease, but found this...

Looks like someone has used a shear pin too small in diameter and made out of stainless. I did find a small section of broken pin hidden in the grease which looks the right diameter (4mm?) and made of brass. Was it originally a brass shear pin on these?

I don't want to hammer the bent pin out for fear of damaging the output shaft, so will cut it off with the dremel as close as I can then punch it out.