Washer thickness should not be that critical, replacements are available.
Lots of the chokes are metal.
Rust on drive leg, only real cure is replating, but that creates other issues, If you are happy with a painted leg paint it, or look for a good replacement which can be cheaper.
Transom bracket is normally bronze colour (have seen plated silver colour), the green that you can see is verdigris, or copper carbonate. When the bronze bracket corrodes it goes green. "where else was painted" Flywheel bronze/gold coloured Hammerite, gearbox and prop silver smooth Hammerite, cylinder block black.
H-A
Last edited by Horsley-Anarak on Tue Jun 23, 2015 10:54 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Hi, just marking my place with interest. My recently acquired Forty Plus was made in 1974 and although it runs well it has suffered cosmetically, the drive tube is very pitted and the black paint on the block has mostly peeled off!
As H-A says the green on the transom bracket is verdigris rather than paint.
Good luck with the project.
Davy
Horsley-Anarak wrote:
Washer thickness should not be that critical, replacements are available.
Thanks. Mine look too thin so I will get some fatter ones.
Horsley-Anarak wrote:
Rust on drive leg, only real cure is replating, but that creates other issues, If you are happy with a painted leg paint it, or look for a good replacement which can be cheaper.
So was it originally chrome plated? Or some other electro-plate? I assume replating would need the leg removed as needs to be in a bath of plating solution. It is possible to plate using a sponge soaked in plating solution but not sure I'd trust it for something this big or going in salty brine...
Horsley-Anarak wrote:
Transom bracket is normally bronze colour (have seen plated silver colour), the green that you can see is verdigris, or copper carbonate. When the bronze bracket corrodes it goes green. "where else was painted" Flywheel bronze/gold coloured Hammerite, gearbox and prop silver smooth Hammerite, cylinder block black.
OK Great, So is there any need to paint the bracket or is it best to just let it have a slight verdigris
The bracket can be stripped down and easily cleaned using a rotary wire brush in a drill, or soaking in a caustic solution for a few days, followed by a quick run with the wire brush again. they clean up nicely.
I shut the engine down to idle, turned off the fuel supply and covered the air intake waiting for her to cut out. She didn't - she point blank refused to die (curious that an engine can seemingly run with no fuel and no air!) Worrying the block would overheat I let the hose I had running to top up the 40litre bucket run over the block. Eventually she spluttered to a stop.
Look for a crankcase leak, near tiller arm is a good place to start, or worn bearings.
The most often reason for poor or no water circulation is blocked up water passages in the cylinder block. I would do this on every new engine I see.
Remove the head, and head gasket, and you will see the waterways where cooling water circulates. It will be full of crud which will mainly be corrosion build up. to remove use a small screwdriver and a hammer to carefully chip out the crud in the waterways. when finished clean any remaining loose crud and reassemble the head. Note that head bolts can seize and shear...
This will almost certainly sort your lack of water circulation. One other thing to check, is the water pipe in the exhaust connected to the water pump housing inside the exhaust, also is the pipe itself completely clear? This pipes water from the pump to the block, so it's critical.
- do I just clean it up and paint & prime?