Saving Old Seagulls

Reading a post about Seagull in different boat forum, where a lot of peoples were putting it down for "pollution".... ....as I learn more about the motor, I found that I really like it!......mechanical simplicity and light weight are the main plus points for me.
Long story short - I have one now, and would like to make it work well.
So far I cleaned carburetor....motor starts....but I think gas tank needs cleaning.....
At wooden boat show I saw one working like a Swiss watch.......

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 4%3Anu0mrj

this is mine:

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 4%3Anu0mrj

clutch handle has this lever in the way......something wrong here
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 8259ot1lsi

this "pipe" has corrosion trough.....not sure if I need to replace it...not sure what is function of this "pipe"
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 4%3Anu0mrj
.....comments are highly appreciated

thank you
Wojo

It's not a lever - It is just the non original pin that secures the engine to the mounting bracket. It should be shortened and have a small hole drilled at the other end to take a spring clip. The corroded pipe is the exhaust pipe. They are easily obtainable but make sure you get the correct length.

Clutched 40's have on the cast bronze transom bracket a small "clip" for retaining the locking pin, the fact that the locking pin is bent at not quite 90 degrees retains it in the clip.

No need to drill anything, just shorten the bar, 40's don't have drilled holes and clips, as the bar will hold itself, this one is just a generic replacement for the original one, they are always too long.

as far as i am aware, the only tilt pins to have holes drilled in them are those fitted on century and 102's.
agree with KEITH, cut the pin down a little. the part of the pin that is sticking up should be retained in a hook that is cast into the bracket.
some owners have drilled holes in the end of the pin to take either a split pin or peice of string attached to rest of the bracket so you dont loose the pin overboard!
similar on SD (skeletal brackets) with chandlers chain. similar on the bayonet fuel caps also.

jon

By clip, I mean the bit on the bracket that holds the pin.

i thought that's what you meant CHARLES



jon

I will shorten the pin this weekend.
Thank you guys!!

Wojo

well, I shortened the pin/lever and still not sure what is the function of it.......seems that doesn't do anything...??

here is still in original length:
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 7259ot1lsi

here is shortened:
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 4%3Anu0mrj

and here is still in the way of the gear handle, when in "neutral" position.......what am I missing??
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 6259ot1lsi

well, I shortened the pin/lever and still not sure what is the function of it.......seems that doesn't do anything...??

Its basic, but the pin holds your transom bracket on, removing the pin and lift the motor up to remove your motor from the transom.

There wasn't anything wrong with it before you shortened it, it looked just like every other 40 series pin.

When would you have the pin not clipped down?

Nice and practical little engine! Has the water pump housing melted away or is it just one of the first pictures that tricked me?

thank you Stelios!
......the picture is really deceiving
The gearbox housing and exhaust pipe has lots of corrosion, pipe has them all the way trough ...
here is picture that shows is better:
http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7 ... 6259ot1lsi

There wasn't anything wrong with it before you shortened it, it looked just like every other 40 series pin.

When would you have the pin not clipped down?

Looks better and its not in the way, how it should look.

Is that a 64cc, 40 series motor pin Keith?