removing flywheel ! !

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sixtyfourretired
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2014 4:28 pm
Location: United Kingdom

removing flywheel ! !

Post by sixtyfourretired »

I have picked up a silver century with a weak, occasional spark. Coil shows good meter reading. I have replaced the HT lead. Thought I would take off flywheel and give the Inside and points a good going over.
Tried WD40, and lots of it, then the club hammer but to no avail - blessed thing just will not budge. Did this on a 40+ and it worked a treat first blow. Is the "Century" bit an indication of the number of times to hit it or the hours and expletives I am required to use. I am sure others have had the same problem - any ideas/advice would be greatly appreciated.
Last edited by sixtyfourretired on Wed Apr 16, 2014 10:43 pm, edited 1 time in total.
pat777
Posts: 333
Joined: Sun Jul 01, 2012 3:07 pm
Location: Ireland

Re: removing flywheel ! !

Post by pat777 »

I've a century with a jammed on flywheel at the moment too. However the only reason I was taking mine off was because I had a lose base plate. Not sure if you know already, but you can adjust and clean the points in between the gaps in the flywheel. Not sure if you've read the faq on John's website. There is a bit in there about a weak spark and a drill, which worked before for me on a previous seagull with a weak spark. Not sure which ignition you have on your silver century. Anyway it might be worth a try. http://www.saving-old-seagulls.co.uk/faq2.html
I am getting a spark, but only a very weak one, should I replace the coil? Common fault with early villiers ignitions. (Wipac uses different magnets and I have not found one that has lost magnetism as yet.)

No, but here is a trick I learnt years ago and thought I had mentioned on these pages already, but no. NOTE, FOR Villiers POINTS IGN ONLY. If the spark is weak, it could be that the magnetism in the flywheel is low. You can get flywheels 're-magnetised', at a cost, if you can find someone who has the kit. But first try this:

Spin the engine up with an electric drill! First remove the plug, then fit a socket to the flywheel nut and a drill to a socket set extension. I use a rechargeable electric drill, but any will do. (reduce the friction, squirt a little oil into the bore and carb, to lubricate the motor.)

Spin the motor up, I recon I get to 1500 revs on my drill, maybe a bit less with all the friction, but do that for 5 minutes. Then reconnect plug and lead and look at the spark.... As if by magic it will have increased.
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Stelios_Rjk
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Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
Location: Athens - Greece

Re: removing flywheel ! !

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

First of all welcome on board!

To clean and the points it's not essential to remove the flywheel. Spray a little bit of WD40 on the points. Spray some WD40 also to a fine grit paper and place it between them. Move the flywheel so much that you can move the grit paper and points are rubbed. After some rubbing clean them with some cloth. Optionally you can pour something that removes oil (WD40) in the end. That could be acetone, carb spray, clean petrol etc. Wipe again with a clean cloth. Then set the gap to 0.5mm (20thou) and you are ready to go.

The trick with the drill is only for villiers ignitions, not wipac/MK2.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
sixtyfourretired
Posts: 2
Joined: Tue Mar 11, 2014 4:28 pm
Location: United Kingdom

Re: removing flywheel ! !

Post by sixtyfourretired »

Thanks. Have done that but will give it another go. I noticed that the lead to the points from the coil itself is impossible to get on the coil end, though I do notice (just) that it is screwed. i wondered if this may be a poor contact - thus the thought of removing the flywheel and my frustration.
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Stelios_Rjk
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Joined: Sun Jun 17, 2012 10:15 pm
Location: Athens - Greece

Re: removing flywheel ! !

Post by Stelios_Rjk »

As far as I understood you have a wipac ignition. Usually the points lead doesn't fail. It is highly unlikely the screw that holds the lead on the coil to come off.
Even if it came loose the spark should "jump" and the engine would work until the lead is totally removed from its place. Science fiction if you ask me.

I believe it's the condenser dead or dying. You cannot replace it on your own but you can add one to see what's going on and it's fairly easy.

Find one like in the picture.

Image

Attach the wire next to the spring. (The hole exist)

Image

Then screw on the backplate the external condenser and let us know what happened.

Be careful nothing to interfere with the flywheel.

In case you can't screw on the backplate the condenser find a way to connect the outer of it on a place with bare metal on your engine. The best is the backplate but you can try anywhere.

Those cond are easy and cheap to get, I suppose mini cooper should use something similar or any old car or bike with points. So you know where to look for it. The capacity you need is something like 0.25mfd.
I love the 10600/145 turns!!!
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