Saving Old Seagulls

Hi all-I have just picked up a Kingfisher QB -bought sight unseen (the Seagull impulse purchase syndrome strikes again !!).The serial No is KL 197H7.I'm told it was part of a house clearance and was found in a shed with a leaky roof so this motor has had a ongoing wetting of fresh water for some time.The black paint finish is lifting etc but the engine appears complete.
The prop turns in neutral gear but the linkage seems seized so I can't shift gear.Also the recoil start is seized so I've no movement of the piston-in short I
can't tell if the engine is seized-I suspect it might be.I have no time to go further until the week end.

On the other hand I have a feeling that this motor has seen very little use-there is none of the usual 'mashing' of bolts and screw heads that one sees so often and those parts that didn't get wet are pristine.The prop is as new -no marks to speak of.There is a lot of surface (hopefully) corrosion about the head area.
I am very familiar with the older Seagull Models-espec Century/SJM/types but I'm a bit out of my depth on this later type machine.

I've looked up these motors in past posts etc -apparently there might be bearing issues and linkage problems etc

Can anyone give me an overview on this motor-what to watch out for and maybe how to go about it.

Thanks to all.

I would take the head off first, they usually come off easily without breaking studs.

This will let you see what is going on in the cylinder and water ways.
Next split the power head from the leg, exhaust will stay with cylinder.

This will let you see if the engine or gearbox is seized.

Also when you take the power head off look inside the exhaust to see if the internal exhaust is intact.
You will need to remove the exhaust to check the inner exhaust condition as they rot badly, and the holes in the water outlet block up.
Getting the exhaust off can be very difficult, on some near impossible without destroying it.

Good luck, post some pictures.

H-A

It was certainly in a quite corrosive environment. It looks weird the rust between the cylinder and the cylinder head. The rust coming out of the join between the cylinder and the exhaust in normal to happen, not so much, but it is usual to find corrosion there. Because of it the exhaust may have cracked on top. No big deal really. The most important is the block and the ignition. When you take it apart or from the inlet on the carb you may see what type of con rod it has. The steel one has a sensitive big end bearing.

When removing the recoil start you will see if the piston has stuck. It may not turn because of various reasons so you can be optimistic!

Stelios_Rjk wrote: It looks weird the rust between the cylinder and the cylinder head. The rust coming out of the join between the cylinder and the exhaust in normal to happen, not so much, but it is usual to find corrosion there.

That is one reason why I said "Take the head off first".

H-A

was found in a shed with a leaky roof so this motor has had a ongoing wetting of fresh water for some time.

Water dripping on it for who knows how many years?

Sounds like a good one to be saved from the skip! Interesting project, I've not got into these new fangled models..

Im also trying to sort [acquire it off its present owner]one of these new fangled modles[also a kingfisher]..at the moment its seized apparently
if I cannot save the powerhead will the gearbox fit onto a century+ powerhead?...that would make a nice Bitza!

Niander101 wrote: if I cannot save the powerhead will the gearbox fit onto a century+ powerhead?...that would make a nice Bitza!

Keep up Niander, Seagull did that years ago, you will need the smaller prop.







H-A

I have one like you show already but I want the big prop for my Yacht
so why wont the big prop kingfisher box fit then?
ps I will try to keep up

Too much pitch.

The Kingfisher powerhead produces 2.5 times more power than the century unit.

Greetings to everyone and thanks for the advice -it is much appreciated.I didn't want to wait for the weekend so I decided to have an initial look at this motor
this evening.The news is good I think -at least this far. I got the Recoil off and it seems fine ,apart from insects and spiderweb etc.The piston moves about 2 millimeters in the cylinder-the plug thread is as new-so the problem lies with the gearbox.I had hoped it would turnout to be a linkage issue but no such luck.
The g/box is dry as a bone -it doesn't even smell of oil-it's full of dry gritty crud and there is a lot of corrosion on the crown/pinion teeth.I'll have to strip it down to see if is viable,certainly it's seized solid at present.I have not seen a box this bad before.
Also the motor sheds black paint and white powder any time it's moved-I assume this latter stuff is oxidised Aluminium.If I ever get to the painting stage this is going to be a problem.Having said all that I think this motor has seen very little use,even the tiller rubber grip is as new.So far so good-I'll post again soon.

Again my thanks to all

Weddigen

Hm, it must be salvageable. I don't know if those gearboxes has small parts that are seriously damaged by corrosion but older gearboxes with such corrosion have been saved.

Since the piston is moving the next step it to check if it sparks. Lubricate at first and then start turning the head. If you found sand, corrosion or anything similar in the bore do not attempt to spin it until you clean everything.

Charles uk wrote:Too much pitch.

The Kingfisher powerhead produces 2.5 times more power than the century unit.

Nice I need the power..ok I understand so it will physically fit but not enough power from a century powerhead

Do all kingfishers have the troublesome roller bearing cranks?

EFNR gearboxes and Kingfisher boxes are the same thing.

Niander sounds like you need a Kingfisher.

H-A

P.S. All Kingfisher have the usual bronze bearing conrod, Seagull 6 have the needle roller conrod.

5rs have a needle roller crank.

Not all Seagull 6 grey coloured powerheads have the needle roller cranks, if they have an R in the serial number i.e. KLR 147 B2.

Probably only 2000 were produced with these cranks & many of those didn't last that well & were replaced with bronze bearing cranks.