Need some help identifying a seagull

[cajuncook1]

I hope someone will be able to help me identify the model and year of my new/old seagull. Tried inputting the serial number on engine number link, but it was unable to register a year.

Motor's information:

SJP L

1464B4

Any help would be appreciated, thanks,

David

[skyetoyman]

Get rid of the L . 40 plus Feb 1964

[cajuncook1]

Thank you sir!!!

[cajuncook1]

The motor was a little stiff, so I sprayed a bit of PB blaster and WD40 in the cylinder and wiggled it slowly back and forth and it immediately released and spun freely and with ease with the spark plug out.

I let is sit for an hour or so and wrap the rope around the fly wheel a couple times over the past couple of hours, then did a compression test.

Hope it is not a false high reading, but I got 120 psi. Don't know what is acceptable for the motor but I am digging for information.

I got a nice fat blue spark with a spark tester and I haven't even popped the flywheel. Got to research how to do that.

The fly wheel does not appear to have the 3 holes on the top like the Johnson and Evinrude flywheels. So a flywheel puller looks to be out of the question.

- What spark plug is good for this motor?
- Is the spark gap 0.020 inch?
- Confirming 10:1 gas/oil ratio?
- Confirming 140wt Marine grade gear oil for the lower unit?
- Is this a 3hp outboard?

Thanks sirs,

David

[Keith.P]

Never use a flywheel puller.
Gear oil for the lower unit, EP90 or EP140
Spark plug com8, gap to 0.020
10:1 gas/oil ratio
2-3hp

[Vic]

SAE 140 is the recommended gear oil for normal temperatures. EP90 in exceptionally cold conditions ( and for certain later models)

8 COM plugs are no longer available (unless you can find one on ebay etc). Modern equivalents include Champion D16 and NGK AB6

Post 1968 models can be converted to 25:1 fuel but 10:1, using a TCW3 oil, is recommended for earlier models

[1650bullet]

The recommended method for getting the fly wheel off is to slacken the nut a little, have an assistant hold the engine off the floor by gripping the flywheel and then whack the nut.




Not the correct way"

First of all remove the flywheel nut
Remove the starter rope pulley
Refit the flywheel nut till its finger tight
Have a second pair of hands to grasp the flywheel and hold up with some tension
Using a hammer give the flywheel nut a sharp blow while assitant is still grasping flywheel
Keep doing this until the flywheel comes loose

DO NOT LOOSEN NUT AND HIT WITH A HAMMER BECAUSE YOU WILL SMASH THE THREADS AND IT WILL COST YOU A NEW CRANK AND FLYWHEEL NUT.

[cajuncook1]

Thanks gents for the information. I'm having a blast with this old gal!

Cheers!

[Hugz]

It is also recommended that you have the piston fully at bdc (fully retracted) but I've yet to see how this wouldn't prevent bending the crank as there is still space between counterweight and rod. Remove flywheel nut and cover and apply some lubrication oil around the shaft the night before. Less hits the better.

Reminds me to buy some cajun pepper... been a while

[Collector Inspector]

NGK AB6 or A6 are too cold. Similar to Champion D21 but not?

Personally have had no real results with reliability using NGK "equivilents" and have discarded them from my parts list many years ago.

D16 Champion is the place to start I am afraid.

Keep it simple and go with it with everything else checked out.

Basics!

No joy with a D16?.................there is something else not correct.

B